Bill & Barb,

Changing the anchor to more modern design is good idea.  Your current anchor has 30-1/2" length on the roller.  That's plenty big enough to go to 44 lb. Delta, the 44 lb. Ronca is maybe too long and the bail is going to be an issue.  

My boat was modified to added a roller by a previous owner, it's on the short size, about 24".  I use a 35 lb. Delta.  As for rode mine is 120 feet of 5/16" G-43 chain and 200' of 9/16" plaited line.  My secondary anchor is a 25 lb. high tensile Danforth anchor with 30 feet of 5/16" G-43 chain and 270 feet of 9/16" plaited line.  Never needed to use it.  We have cruised on the Great Lakes for the last 14 years averaging 6 weeks out and 880 nm round trip.  Anchoring about 40% of the time.

I would recommend a chain length about my length for a couple of reasons.  In most weather conditions and anchoring locations (30 kts. of wind or less and 20-25 feet of water) we on an all chain rode.  Deeper or windier we let out some nylon rode.  Most modern anchors have hole for attaching a retrieval line.  I have a bail there and it holds a short line that secure to the bow cleat to secure the anchor while under way.  I also use it to attach retrieval line and buoy.  I use a 12" round buoy with a block on the bottom and 40 feet of 1/4" line with a 3 lb. SS weight to help center it right above the anchor in most depths I anchor in.  Even shallow depths it's not far from the anchor.  It lets us and our neighbors know where the anchor is and can be used to retrieve the anchor as necessary.  

When on an all chain rode, we use a CS Johnson chain hook and 25 feet of 1/2" laid nylon line.

Whatever you decide, safe anchoring. 

Bill...

What do you mean by "secured in place while underway"? When I bought my boat (2nd owner) the PO had a short wire attached to the bail and the anchor to secure it when underway. I removed it because, in extremis, I want to be able to drop the hook right away and not mess around with any tie downs.

I have a short line in the anchor locker with a hook that hooks into the chain and is tied off so prevent accidental releae but that's a quick releasse.

What I mean is simply an 18" 3/16" line tied to bow cleat keeps the anchor secure in the roller. A separate light wire eith a snap shackle secure the chain inside the anchor locker.

This is a topic near and dear to all who spend many a night at anchor! I used a CQR for years, and put up with an occasional drag here in San Francisco Bay and up and down the coast (mud, sometimes kelpy or grasses). Finally upgraded to a Rocna 20 (44 lbs). Zero problems since, sets very quickly and unmistakably. I have a stainless swivel shackle that automatically keeps the anchor from coming up over the roller backwards. A must for single handers. I use 100' 5/16 high tensile backed by 200' nylon rode. The chain hook line is permanently attached to the big cleat in the anchor locker for easy deployment. 100' of chain keeps me on all chain in most situations. A small brass clip on a piece of short stuff,securely attached to a u bolt in the locker, keeps the anchor from inadvertently deploying in bouncy conditions. I keep the windlass loose so I can just kick the anchor over in a hurry when over my spot. The small winch handle for the windlass is in a pocket out of the way on the side of the locker. It has a small attached line as well for obvious reasons. Finally, I installed a wash down pump under the forepeak berth that leads into an attachment inside the locker, with a short piece of hose permanently there. This set up has worked well for me. The two things to be careful of are: 1) Don't let anything get caught up in the chain as it is going in or out and 2) don't let the chain pile up too high when bringing the anchor up as it can jam the windlass...a nasty situation I know from bad experience!! I really do not think the extra weight of the oversized anchor makes any difference and sleeping is great. The Rocna fit just fine on the existing roller set up, though care must be used to prevent the shank from injuring the roller furler as it comes over the roller.

I pretty much run a similar set up. I had to do a bit of mod to make my setup work on an 88' Mk I version as far as windlass... But back to the point, I use 140' of 5/16 and 200' of 8 plait on a 45lb mantus anchor.  I also use a stainless swivel at the chain anchor attachment as well.  

Last year while anchored out at Santa Cruz Island a family pulled in later in the day and jumped in their dinghy and were dragging something back and forth around their anchorage.  I asked them what they were doing, and they were dragging a grappling hook to look for their anchor and chain.  Seems a few nights earlier they were anchored and the capt.  woke in the middle of the night and realized they were adrift and 1/2 way to Anacapa Island!  Seems the rope to chain splice failed for whatever reason and they lost their ground tackle.  Good thing the capt woke up and noticed he was adrift, could've been an ugly outcome.

So....this has led me to the thought of some kind of anchor buoy or something so if it were to happen I wouldn't lose the whole kit.....

Sorry for the adrift....

Adrift while asleep, a thought that will guarantee no sleep! Rope to chain splice failure is the failure of the skipper/owner....can't happen if done properly and of course inspected periodically. Except when being forced to anchor in rocks, I hate the use of an anchor buoy. One more thing to go wrong, get fouled up on the rode, wrap the prop, hassle with getting it properly deployed, tap tap tap the hull near your head on a windless night, need for careful retrieval while pulling anchor in the pitch dark trying to get under way etc etc etc. Sure are a lot of variables when it comes to anchoring....I think a lot depends on the actual use and location of the boat. CQRs have worked fine for me, but they will definitely drag in a few grassy bottom conditions around here (SF Bay) and slowly drag in the soft muck of the Sacramento delta when afternoon winds get to 25-30 kts. My Rocna handles these conditions much  better. The CQR worked great for us all through the Channel Islands and years in Mexico. Never dragged. 

I need to replace my anchor chain and I'd swear the old chain is 3/8ths but it seems the majority of posters use 5/16th. Some articles I've seen recommend "BBB chain"... (bend before break) but I have not seen any reference to that on the postings. Any recommendations?

How do those of you who have hundreds of feet of chain store it in the anchor locker.... seems to small to hold all that plus nylon rode.

I have room to spare.  I could put more in if it wasn't a weight concern.  I'd prefer all chain.   Its possible that my older 88' Mark I has a bigger locker it sounds like....I'm 5' 10 and it's not quite chest deep.

Except when being forced to anchor in rocks, I hate the use of an anchor buoy. One more thing to go wrong, get fouled up on the rode, wrap the prop, hassle with getting it properly deployed, tap tap tap the hull near your head on a windless night, need for careful retrieval while pulling anchor in the pitch dark trying to get under way etc etc etc.

^^^Good points sir.

Bill,

Looks good.  One suggestion is to add a small bow shackle to the top hole.  That will allow you to added a trip line quickly, you should ever decide to use one.  I am leary of swivels, especially in salt water.  Hard to inspect for corrosion.

Nice looking set up.  we also have the Rocna 20kg, and the only issue we have is that the "arm" hits the underside of the furling cage when being deployed / retrieved.  Makes for some very awkward moves in very confined area.  Wondered if any one else has this issue, has a solution? C36 Mk 2, 2004, #2173.

Hi Haro,

Having looked at you addition of a down switch to the anchor locker, I notice a potential problem.  In designing a circuit, that has both power (the windless) and control (the pedals), it is generally a good idea to separate the two parts of the total circuit.  In this case, the high amperage circuit should not be part of the low amperage control circuit.  In order to separate them cost is, of course, added.  That cost is in the form of a solenoid control box (see Diagram enclosed).  The reason is  to separate the two to protect the foot pedals from potential failure in the form of worn out contacts due to arching of a partially activated depression of the pedal.  Catalina's interest was to keep the cost to a minimum, hence one pedal and direct wiring.

In the one photo attached my windless, Maxwell VW1000, was installed by me.  The old Mark I boats did not have a provision for a windless.  I installed it aft of the anchor locker.  In the other photo, the additional wiring is for a radio operated remote key fab style devise.  Note the small gauge wires going from the pedals to the control box and large gauge wires going from the box to the windless.  

What you have works, but leaves room for improvement.

Regards,