If you have a rigid vang, then the need for the topping lift to be at the cockpit is nil. Just a thought.

We have both reefs led back to the cockpit and can reef without having to go on deck. I consider that really important. In all we have 3 halyards, 2 reefs and the topping lift as well as both ends of the continuous mainsheet. Both ends of the mainsheet are in clam cleats, everything else is in a gang of 3 cam cleats per side on the cabin top. I think it was done at the factory and it works very well.

Bud, you can't adjust your vang from the cockpit?

We have no vang, this boat didn't have one on it when we bought it and I see no marks to indicate it ever had one on it. There was a brand new vang in a sealed plastic bag on our 28 as well, it had never been used by either of the previous owners so we didn't bother with it. Heresy, I know.

Ross,

Sounds like a good idea.

Consider:

1. Double line reefing to sheetstoppers (clutches). There have been many discussions about double line reefing on this board. Essentially, many folks are happy with their single line reefing, but consider that the OEM reefing setup was really double line: the horn hook at the boom for the tack and the separate line to the clew. The basic reason is that the tack needs hardly any strength to hold down, while the clew needs a lot, and one line can't really do both jobs. I have double line reefing and can reef on the fly by sailing upwind on the jib, and luffing the main with the traveler (and sometimes some mainsheet). For full disclosure: we also have Harken Batt Cars on the mainsail luff.

2. We also have: cunningham, vang and lazy jacks run aft.

3. I did away with the jib halyard run aft, since once the roller furling is set, there's no reason to need to readjust except to tighten it every once in a while. I use a line, not a shackle, to connect the tack of the jib to the top fo the furling drum: tighten it to stretch the luff when the sail is unfurled, loosen it before I refurl.

4. When you plan it out with the deck organizers, remember, you can stack the organizers. Be careful about making sure you have good fairleads from all lines.

5. For those lines coming under the traveler track, don't forget the guides (like bullet fairleads) that Garhauer can provide under the track. If you have a dodger, plan ahead, too.

6. The topping lift for our whisker pole is our backup jib halyard, also left at the mast. We found that the "foredeck ape" needs the pole lift at the mast when adjusting the pole, since he's up there anyway.

7. I hate, simply hate, clam cleats and find no use for them on a boat of our size. They're dangerous, I think. We used to need two hands to adjust the mainsheet, one to hold the line down to get a good lead to the winch, and another to crank the winch - with the sheetstopper the fairlead is constant. We replaced our mainsheet (single side) clam cleat with a sheetstopper, which is left open when sailing and the mainsheet goes on the winch. Our reefing lines go to sheetstoppers. The cam cleats are only for the cunningham, vang and lazy jacks.

Good luck.

Ross,
I agree with everything said so far. One other thing you might want to consider is moving the jib halyard to the mast. If you are like me, you adjust it very few times each season (non-racing). In the Upgrades section is a link to the improvements I made on Julandra. There's a whole section on deck improvements, including moving the halyard winches inboard on the MkI, putting in rope clutches as Stu described, and going to double reefing lines. Made a HUGE difference. Other than putting on the mainsail cover, everything can be done from the cockpit, which is a big safety factor as Bud said.

One thing to consider with deck organizers; I'd try to keep the angle that the lines make through the organizers to the minimum possible. On my '88 C30, the dual level organizers turned the lines 90 degrees. That's a lot of force and it resulted in bending the bolts/axles of the rollers. Garhauer of course replaced them free of charge. The lines exited the bottom of the mast at 90 degrees to the centerline, so there wasn't anything I could do about it, but if you can avoid it, minimizing the angle will decrease the load.

In the process of a similar revamping.
Any thoughts from those who've done this as to the appropriate load capacities for the mast collar blocks (for turning such things as reef lines, topping lift, etc.)? Would Garhauer Series 25 blocks (1,150 lb working load) be sufficient? Or do I need to go up to Series 40 (2,800 lbs) ?

Tom
How do I get into your JULANDRA site?

[QUOTE=caprice 1050;21278]
How do I get into your JULANDRA site?[/QUOTE]

[url]http://www.c36ia.com/node/754[/url]
[url]http://www.c36ia.com/node/263[/url]

[QUOTE=Chachere;21277]In the process of a similar revamping.
Any thoughts from those who've done this as to the appropriate load capacities for the mast collar blocks (for turning such things as reef lines, topping lift, etc.)? Would Garhauer Series 25 blocks (1,150 lb working load) be sufficient? Or do I need to go up to Series 40 (2,800 lbs) ?[/QUOTE]

Matthew, I can't give you a definitive answer, but I can tell you that the load on the block will be approximately 1.4 times the tension in the halyard or other line, due to the way it turns the line through about 90 degrees. Assuming the working load contains its own set of safety factors, that means you could hoist about 800 pounds on those blocks.

The only lines that might create impact loading would be the mainsheet, and that would drive up the load in an uncontrolled jibe, for example.

If it were me, I would keep looking for a better answer, but if I HAD to make choice, I would consider the 30 series.

Matthew,
For things like topping lift and such I used the series 25 blocks. For the reefing lines and the halyards I went with the series 30 blocks.

Mike,
From the home page: Technical > Upgrades > Julandra Upgrades (page 7 last time I looked). Hope this helps.

Thanks, Duane and Tom!
I called Garhauer; Guido recommended the Series 40 blocks for reefing lines for a boat of our size; they have stronger bearings.

The previous owner of my boat led EVERY line back to the cockpit... I believe I have is design sketch if interested. My boat is a MKI as well Hull #22.

Let me know...

Tony

Ross,
I did not drill thru the traveler riser, but I made some fairleads that bolted to the underside of the traveler, just inboard of the risers. I got the idea from a newer C36 that had something similar from the factory. A couple of bullseye fairleads attached to a piece of 1/4" aluminum. You can see them in the upper left corner of the attached pic.

Tom -
I've now obtained just about all the parts needed to replicate the set-up you did on Julandra (with some small variations), as it looks very practical and well thought out.
Before I start drilling holes (which won't be for a least a month, with this weather!), I'm curious if -- based on your experience sailing with that set-up of running rigging -- there is anything you would have done differently (if, hypothetically, you still owned Julandra and were doing it over).
- Matthew

Matthew,
Good question. The one thing that comes to mind is to mount the cam cleats for the traveler lines as far aft as possible, the first time. In my original layout I copied a newer Tartan at our dock with the cam cleats forward (Which you can see in the pic in post#17 above, just below the D and the e). That did not work well for me. I would occasionally need extra pulling power to move the traveler, and a few times I found myself almost wearing grooves in the teak trim at the top of the bulkhead. It was also harder to engage the line in the cam cleat. Moving the cam cleat aft solved those problems, but left me with 4 extra holes in the cabintop. If I think of anything else I'll post it.

Thanks, Tom.
Actually, I had planned to put the cam cleats at the aft edge (which is where they are now, but more outboard).
When I'm done with all this, I'll post some pictures documenting my latest efforts at creating Julandra's doppelganger!

Matthew, one of our skippers used swivel cam cleats at the aft edge of the cabintop for the traveler lines. Works like a charm, especially when beating and tilted over. :cool: We have standard ones at the aft end of ours.

Has anyone been successful running double reef lines (1 tack /1 clew)  back to the cockpit on a MkII ? I'm wondering if the outhaul sheave would handle a stripped 3/8" dynema dbl braid line for the clew. The tack seems simple to put a padeye on one side of the mast, run line through cringle, down and back. Will also need to add a dbl turning block at the mast base for the additional line or possibly run the vang back differently and use it's block & clutch. Hate a rope clutch on a vang anyway .. things to think about

Greg

Catching up on an this old thread.  Saw some offer to post designs.  Has anyone posted their design for leading all lines aft?