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plebel's picture
plebel
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Joined: 10/11/13
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"Mothballed" 8 years

Spider nests, paper wasp hives, and cocoons... in the winches.  Is that what they mean by "mothballing a boat" ?

2 winches cleaned 5 to go.

 

Paul & Ann   -   
"Freestyle"   -   
1985 C36 #454   -   
North Puget Sound, WA

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Wavelength's picture
Wavelength
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Well I have never see that before.....   Maybe time for me to clean my winches as well.

jhenderson
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I just received my boat, it's been on the hard for around two years. I've been dutifully fixing the broken bits, ya know, a thousand here, a thousand there. Here I was thinking I was close to ready, and you go and show me something I would have never thought of! 

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plebel
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Here I was thinking I was close to ready,

Hahaha I feel your pain.   After months of work, and yes thousands of $  (and a LOT of fun tinkering)  Tonight was supposed to be our FIRST sail, and FIRST night out of the marina...

But,... on Monday, coming back from the fuel dock in strong current and headwind,... in 20 minutes at 1700 rpm doing only 3 knts SOG, the engine temp ran up to 230 degrees!

So instead, today was raw water circuit troubleshooting, impeller replacement (it wasn't even that bad), and thermostat removal/deletion...

 

Maybe next week.

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Wavelength
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Make sure you check the valves on the HWH bypass system if it has one, the old gate valves were a source of overhaeding on one of our first madien trips.  Ended up calling for a tow.   You also need to look for air locks in both the closed system and the open fresh water one.     Were you getting water from the exhaust when yuou started the engine?

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plebel
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Thanks Ross,

 

Yes I had already removed the old H/W heater bypass valves.  HX goes straight to W/H now.  And sink water was VERY hot when I got back, so that would eliminate the thermostat too (or poor coolant circulation from airlock), but I took the thermostat out for now anyway..it was real gunky & old.

But...no raw water was coming into thruhull when I removed the filter housing, until I poked "coathanger" down through.  So that was prob the main issue, though exhaust HAD been burbling when I set out.

Also on input side of pump, it's supposed to be wire reinforced hose (to prevent hose collapse from pump suction) .  Mine wasn't.  It is now ($7.50 x 3 feet) !

Exhaust is burbling nicely now.

Anxious to see again now how cool it stays under load.  It's a big heavy boat for that little M25.

 

 

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newguy
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Good to know it's likely resolved Paul.  Looks like our postings crossed in mid air.  I'll leave my burping procedure up just in case someone else ever needs it.

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Ross is correct. BTW, the thermostat deletion should only be temporary. Could be as simple as air in the system. Here's what I would be doing/checking. First, install a new thermostat and burp. Here’s my procedure: Remove radiator cap Fill to 1” below cap Leave cap off and start engine. Check for water being expelled from transom. This should be part of every engine start! Test the coolant temperature with finger. Should be getting warm within a few minutes. Monitor temp gauge. After a few minutes, rapidly rev up/down the engine a few times to expel air Coolant level may change. Carefully add some if it goes too much below the 1” below cap level When coolant becomes hot or overflowing, install cap, fill reservoir. Should not take very long, perhaps 15 minutes Shut down engine, let it cool. Level in reservoir might go down. This is normal. Add some to keep at a known line Start engine, allow to get to normal temperature and can maintain Leave dock and test those winches!
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