New Autopilot

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mikeannikki
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Joined: 9/30/16
Posts: 26
New Autopilot

Ok so....  the autopilot that was on from PO was no good from the get go.  Both the control head and the wheel control were shot.  I have decided after two years without Slip Away WILL have AP for next year.  Hoping for some input on choice.  Thinking Raymarine EV 200?  Below deck?  I was not crazy about the noise from wheel pilot on previous boat.  I also want to make sure new AP is sized correctly for C36 as I never felt like AP on our old Hunter 31 was quite up to the task if you know what I mean.  We mainly cruise Lake Erie with some longer trips up to Lake Huron in the near future.  I don't want to say money is no option but more important to get best fit first rather than save a few $$$.  Thanks for your input!     Mike

Mike and Nikki Willis
1996 C 36 #1570  "Slip Away"  
MK II - Tall Rig - Winged Keel
Fremont, Ohio

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LeslieTroyer
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Posts: 533

Mike there is i great article by Larry Brant in the Members only section on installing a below deck autopilot an the MK-2.  

I installed a ev200 on my MK1 (write up in same location). It’s great on all points of sail!!

Les

Les & Trish Troyer
Mahalo 
Everett, WA
1983 C-36 Hull #0094
C-36 MK 1 Technical Editor. 

Commodore

 

knotdoneyet
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Posts: 253

Absolutely thrilled with my raymarine EV-200 below deck autopilot.  The best purchase on my boat.

It’s been proven in many conditions running the Gulf Coast, Keys and Tortugas.  Drives straight as an arrow - silently.
 

2000 C36 MKII 1825

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Phil L
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Posts: 104

I opted for the less expensive EV-100 wheelpilot and have been very pleased with its functionality.

Phil L 
Southern Cross
Channel Islands, CA
C36MKI #400

two-rocks
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Posts: 74

Edited...had an EV-100 wheel, upgraded to the ev-200 with raymarine linear drive. 
Used the ev-100 computer with the linear drive last season with a jury rigged clutch switch. Worked well and will keep is as a backup. The ev-100 computer will no like the transient voltage spikes from the linear drive (long term). That said the electronics part of the brain are the same.

The upgrade was for a couple reasons - with the wheel pilot we were on the edge of it's functionality, and the drive was showing wear both for belts and the gearging for them. The linear drive is nearly silent and never breaks a sweat even in the worst weather we care to be in.

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alfricke
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Posts: 90

We put an EV 200 on Jubilee this year. Extremely pleased with it. Very powerful linear drive handles heavy weather beautifully. Completely silent. It is hooked into the original Raymarine instruments so it will sail to a given wind angle and has a tack function which is good for singlehanding. I also purchased the wireless remote, again very good when singlehanding. Added benefit is that if steering cables or quadrant should fail, you still have a way to steer. It is pricey for sure, but I love it.

Al Fricke Jubilee 

Al Fricke
S/V Jubilee San Francisco Bay
Catalina 36' MkII  #1867
Universal 35-B

knotdoneyet
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Posts: 253

Could you post the details on the autopilot wireless remote?

:-D

2000 C36 MKII 1825

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LeslieTroyer
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Posts: 533

Both Raymarine remotes requires seatalk so if not already on the boat you need to get a seatalk to seatalkNG converter which is about $100.  There are two different remotes,  The S100 which has only has autopilot functions (~$350), and the SmartController which does autopilot and can display other info on the network (depth, speed...)(~$540)

 

Les & Trish Troyer
Mahalo 
Everett, WA
1983 C-36 Hull #0094
C-36 MK 1 Technical Editor. 

Commodore

 

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alfricke
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Posts: 90

You can go to Raymarine for remote specs. Mine was just out of the box. There is a little “receiver” box you can put almost anywhere below decks which communicates with the wireless handheld remote. When you turn on the remote it searches around until it pairs up with the receiver. At that point you can alter direction from anywhere on or near the boat. I’ve used it while sitting on the foredeck to get away from engine noise on calm days and have used it while huddling under the dodger avoiding spray. 

Al Fricke
S/V Jubilee San Francisco Bay
Catalina 36' MkII  #1867
Universal 35-B

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LeslieTroyer
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if you want ultimate geeky-ness you need to setup signalk and wireless on a Raspberry Pi - and get an app for your apple watch to server as the remote control for the autopilot...  up and down a degree or 10 degrees, + tack port/starboard.

Les

Les & Trish Troyer
Mahalo 
Everett, WA
1983 C-36 Hull #0094
C-36 MK 1 Technical Editor. 

Commodore

 

knotdoneyet
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Joined: 7/27/12
Posts: 253

Thanks for the reply.  I was just watching Gone with the Wynn’s and apparently their Garmin let’s you run the autopilot from the IPad App!  That’s blocked on Raymarine’s RayControl IPad app.. :(

Something to consider if you are looking for an autopilot.

2000 C36 MKII 1825

two-rocks
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Posts: 74

The raymarine axiom models let you control the autopilot from a tablet. In fact the tablet is a mirror of the chartplotter and all its features and settings. The only setting on the AP you can't control from the tablet is apparent wind mode - that has to be turned on from the autopilot control head - but you can adjust the apparent wind heading from the tablet after engaging the AP.

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Chachere
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Posts: 825

We bought a remote autopilot gizmo 5 years ago from these folks: www.madmanmarine.com
It has worked quite well with our Raymarine ST4000, and if I'm not mistaken will work with any seatalk AP.  See discussion on this thread: www.catalina36.org/forum/general-discussion/wireless-auto-pilot-remote

I'm so used to have the freedom that remote control permits (particularly when single-handing) that it will be a major consideration when we get around at some point to upgrading from the ST4000 (eventually want to go with a below-deck AP that will interface with our B&G Zeus 2 chartplotter).

Matthew Chachère
s/v ¡Que Chévere!
(Formerly 1985 C36 MKI #466 tall rig fin keel M25)
2006 Catalina Morgan 440 #30.
Homeported in eastern Long Island, NY

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LeslieTroyer
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Couldn’t you install a SeatalkNG to Seatalk bridge then SeatalkNG to N2K device cable??

Les & Trish Troyer
Mahalo 
Everett, WA
1983 C-36 Hull #0094
C-36 MK 1 Technical Editor. 

Commodore

 

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Chachere
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Posts: 825

Right now I use a multiplexer from these folks - http://brookhouseonline.com/nmea_multiplexer.htm - to enable the Seatalk and NMEA 0183 stuff to all chat relatively happily with the newer electronics and my laptop. 
(For some reason I seem to have a habit of buying gizmos like this from locations down under!)
Les, your articles on this sort of stuff in Mainsheet have been quite helpful, by the way.
 

Matthew Chachère
s/v ¡Que Chévere!
(Formerly 1985 C36 MKI #466 tall rig fin keel M25)
2006 Catalina Morgan 440 #30.
Homeported in eastern Long Island, NY

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LeslieTroyer
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Posts: 533

Thanks. Always good to get feedback both positive and negative.  Next one is on what Maker tools - specifically CNC routers can do for you.  

Les

Les & Trish Troyer
Mahalo 
Everett, WA
1983 C-36 Hull #0094
C-36 MK 1 Technical Editor. 

Commodore

 

mikeannikki
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Joined: 9/30/16
Posts: 26

Well thank you for all the input!  I am going to go with the below deck opt$$$$$.  Would it be worth getting the longer linear drive to lessen the loss of rudder angle??  Western basin Lake Erie is not the largest cruising area and although most marina's are roomy some are not.  I guess that is my only reservation would be loosing manuverability in tight situatioins?  Or is that what prop walk is for??    

Mike and Nikki Willis
1996 C 36 #1570  "Slip Away"  
MK II - Tall Rig - Winged Keel
Fremont, Ohio

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LeslieTroyer
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Posts: 533

I’ve not really noticed the decrease in rudder angle.  Not mentioned above is the $500 for the Edson tiller.   Pricy but gives you a second emergency tiller, one that is much easier to use than the Catalina supplied one

les

Les & Trish Troyer
Mahalo 
Everett, WA
1983 C-36 Hull #0094
C-36 MK 1 Technical Editor. 

Commodore

 

Njsarn
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Joined: 6/19/22
Posts: 3

Hello all,  I've just installed Raymarine T70155 on my 2006 boat.  The p70s controller head won't come out of the preprogram mode when Auto is pushed. It just seems to stuck in some factory maneuver preprogram. I have not finished all the calibration, just the Dockside part done.  Took the boat out with friends and the boat just steered in some pattern when the Auto button is pushed had to quickly push the Standby to get out.  The old ST6001 held the heading by just pushing the Auto button.  Any ideas?  Regards and thanks, Nat S.

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