Steve,

I can only help you with 2 questions:

1. I have seen some genset installations on a C36; they were both in the port cockpit locker and we jammed in there pretty tight. I never heard how noisy they were.

2. The hope page of the C36 website has a box with quicklinks. There is a link to the Tool Box right there. You will be sending an email through the site to the Tool Meister.

Good luck with your rather ambitious project.

Regarding #1, I think the reason they don't put a hose between the manifold and the aqualift until the hump hose is heat. Diesel exhaust can easily top 800F and even with water injection a rubber hose can't handle that. It could melt or start a fire. If it was that easy I'm sure the boat builders would be doing it.

And #3, I am guessing that if this engine if its brand new is costing you well over $10K, plus install? Do you really want to run a $10K engine to cool your fridge versus a $800 Honda generator? There's few things worse for a diesel engine than running it unloaded/lightly loaded, like to charge batteries, for long periods of time, that's a sure way to trash your engine. Personally, I would put in a decent set of solar panels/wind gen to keep the batteries up before I'd be running a diesel to charge batteries.

You should just call Catalina and ask if they have anything for the wiring, they can also tell you if any Yanmars were put in C36's at the factory. This type of swap has likely been done before and maybe someone here who has done it will weigh in.

As for the tools, there is a link on the right side of the main C36IA website to put in a request for tools, just fill in that form and submit it.

You definitely are taking the road less travelled, though I guess somebody's got to do it! If you can take some pics/write a description it will make an interesting tech article.

Stephen

The 3JH5E looks like a nice engine package. I suspect the biggest part of the job will be reworking the engine beds and surrounding structure to fit the new powerplant.

With regard to the exhaust system, I believe the reason for the stainless steel high rise type elbow and location of the water injection we have in the stock C36 is to provide an adequate height above the water lock muffler for water injection into the exhaust. This ensures water does not flow back into the engine which is a significant consideration in repowering a sailboat due to engine and water line locations.

In your application you may need a high rise exhaust elbow available from Yanmar or possibly a custom made elbow to achieve this. Have a look at this Yanmar installation help site. [url]http://www.yanmarhelp.com/i_exhaust.htm[/url] for more info. Good luck with the install.

1500 hrs. Is that all our engines will last? I thoughts they went on for multiple thousands of hrs.

Talisman, don't worry. I have no idea why this fellow thinks he needs a new engine at 1500 hours, but apparently he does. Sounds like he loves to change engines. As an old hot rodder I can relate...sort of.

My M35B has nearly 2000 hours on it, and will probably get another 250 or so this coming season because the beautiful cruising months in the Pacific Northwest have very little wind. I expect my engine to serve well past 5000 hours. (Additional anecdotal evidence...my VW Golf turbo diesel has 237k miles on it and runs just fine.)

Stephen, it would help those of us who click on your posts if you had an automated signature. Knowing more about your boat (and about you) would give us some context for your interesting postings. I have no idea whether your boat is a clapped out hurricane survivor or a later model Mk II.

Our fleet has had a very broad array of minor and major evolutions throughout its history and an automated signature ultimately helps us to help you, Stephen, as our comments can be more to the point.

It's slam dunk easy to set up. Just click User CP on the blue bar upper left of this page. Then follow the prompts. Use my signature as a model for the kind of information that will be helpful.

Just a thought, is there a problem with the Heat Exchanger leaking anti-freeze into the water jacket and then sending it out the exhaust? It may be worth having a second opinion before replacing the engine.
John Meyer

Stephen,
As far as I know the C36 was only produced with Universal engines, even the last of the MkII's. There might be an oddball out there with a Westerbeke or Yanmar from the factory, but not many. The C36 replacements, the C375 and C385, come standard with Yanmars. In the C375 Owner's Encyclopedia on this site is a wiring diagram for the engine.

Larry

Thanks for taking me off the cliff.

Enrique

Not to worry, Enrique. It's a fine engine and it will last a long, long time.

Enrique,

This summer, I had the misfortune to have to replace the camshaft due to a failure at the very tip which drives the raw water pump.

I enlisted a mechanic to help with the tricky parts and he suggested that we do a compression test to check the general health of the engine before tearing down. With 2400 hours on it, he could not believe how high and consistent the compression readings were.

When we tore it apart, the head, valves, pistons and cylinders looked fantastic. I am not happy for the repair time or cost, but it is nice to know that my engine looks close to brand new on the inside.

Give a well-made diesel engine clean air and fuel, change the oil and filter regularly, run it at moderate loads (not too low is the key) and it should give you good service for many thousands of hours.

[QUOTE=stephenemmerman;15837]Had mechanic look at m35 decided antifreeze gets into diesel and goes out exhaust. My 36 catalina is a MK II 1996 Final hours on engine approximately 1500.
Purchased a new Yanmar type 3JH5E 39 hp[/quote]

Wow 1500 hours is barely broken in. I doubt this fix would have required a new engine but if you're happy that's all that matters. Let me know what you'd take for the old one. I could use it for educational purposes for my "how to" web site..

[QUOTE=stephenemmerman;15837]2 - Electro Maax - 160 high output Marine Alternator - same as a balmar -
Serpentine Pulley Upgrade & Balmar regulator - reason is they promise me at least 120 input at 800 rpm. [/quote]

I'd be surprised if you got that with the 160. As you go larger with any of these alts the "cut in" speed also gets higher. This is why I generally prefer the Emaax 140A. It has a decent low speed cut in and very good output.

Also you need to know what your bank will even take for current. What type of bank? GEL, AGM or WET? With a 300-400Ah wet bank a 160A alt is larger than you'll need in output.. As an example a 450Ah bank of wets will take about 25% of the 20 hour rating or 112A in bulk mode. Once the bank comes up to absorption voltage it begins limiting the acceptance even more.

If AGM then you will be better with a larger alt. Course there are other considerations when going AGM to worry about also. Lifeline wants to see a MINIMUM charge rate of 20% of "C" and Odyssey wants to see a MINIMUM of 40% of "C".

Of course even with wets it never hurts to have a larger alternator as they will work less hard. I just feel the Emaax 140A is a better performer at low RPM cut in speeds just as the Balmar 120A is over the 150A... I suspect with the 160A you'll need to see about 1200 -1400 to see good output..

[QUOTE=stephenemmerman;15837]A funny thing is balmar just got in conversion kits this last week when i spoke to them.[/quote]

The new Balmar kits are Emaax and Emaax is now selling the Balmar regulators. They are working together even though they are competitors.. Emaax had crappy regulators and Balmar had no serp kits..

Here's an Emaax 140A alt during the load testing and set up I did on a C&C 110...

[URL="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Z0ijfk0DMPk&list=UUoPqTkOluQsuu3RpGnxVwFw..."]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Z0ijfk0DMPk&list=UUoPqTkOluQsuu3RpGnxVwFw...

Still just sounds like a head gasket to me. but a new engine is nice for sure if money is no object

Hey, Steve. Get a new avatar pic with Kathy in it. Who wants to see just you! :D

hello Stephen,
we have yanmar 39hp in our 1993 C36; fits just great and the extra power is always welcome. I've been meaning to do a post on the retro fit but haven't gotten a round TOIT......I will go take some pics of the exhaust / heat exchanger connections and shape through to the hump tube for your info.

hello Stephen,
will make sure I get some pics up before you haul....
I presume you were referring to Eric Hiscock of "Wanderer" fame? I believe he died on board Wanderer V in Whangarei (south of Russell / Bay of Islands) in 1986.

hi stephen,
ok, if you use google earth satelite you should zoom in on Mount Maunganui (it's an extinct volcano which is our "beacon" to our harbor entrance). Then come on into the harbor and head basically due south and you should find sulphur point marina (it will be to starboard of your track). Follow the channel into the marina and you should see our C36 on "F" pier (#3 close into shore and we slip stern in).
Island Packets are great sea boats; I think better than Catalinas for blue water sailing but for local coastal cruising we really enjoy our C36. The hassle with our area is our cruising waters are basically blue the moment we leave the harbor; its a 3-4 hour cruise sail out to Mayor Island which is our closest coastal island with decent anchorage. Otherwise we have an 11 hour steam/sail up to the Great Mercuries; another 4-5 hours into the Hauraki Gulf (close to Auckland city) and then a decent long haul of 12 hours up to the Bay of Islands. Nothing much in between so we have to choose our weather systems to cruise sail up the eastern coast. Our harbor is reasonably shallow but still offers good sailing opportunities (our shoal keel configuration is particularly useful inside our harbor).
cheers

just had gander at google satelite and our berth seems to be host to a motor boat....maroon covers. don't know why our C36 isn't shown but anyways that slip has been home for our C36 for the last 3-4 years.

Yes, numbers start from shore so we are second slip from shore left hand side as you walk out. "A" pier is southern most so "F" is 6th pier (close to marina admin and facilities etc).

hello Stephen,
I've attached pics of our Yanmar 39hp install in our C36.... the exhaust elbow from engine heat exchanger is shown and the water inlet elbob can be seen in one of the pics just before the elbow enters the hump tube. If for any reason my technical capabilities have been thwarted (ie you cannot see the pics, please send me your email address and I will reply with jpg attachments.
Trust your new install goes smoothly; the Yanmar is a great engine and you will be delighted with the extra hp!! We have a 16inch kiwi folding prop.
best wishes....
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Neville, I don't think you can attach pics on the Forum using this method. Click on the Go Advanced button that may give you better options for uploading photos. Note that the Max Size of any uploaded photos is about 320kb, which is quite small.

Other choices are:

1. Submit them as photos for the 2013 Photo Album, but there is still a size limitation;

2. Email them at full resolution to your tech editor, who can (and I would volunteer to help Bud with this if necessary) compile them into an article for the website. It would be nice, I think, to have some high resolution photos of the Yanmar installation in our Tech - Upgrades library for anyone considering this enhancement.

hello Stephen,
new pic attachments which you should be able to open....:)

Neville,
What kind of stuffing box is in the second pic? I've never seen anything like that before.

hi Tom,
I threw that pic in as I thought it might arouse interest.
It's a Kiwi Seal; eliminates the old style stuffing box and is an easy retrofit. I fitted it about 2 years ago and haven't had any need of further inspection or maintenance; these seals work well even with a bit of mis-alignment as sometimes happens with older hulls or engine changes (we don't have any mis-alignment)
You can google the site under "Kiwi Seal".

I couldn't figure out one thing from the Kiwi Seal website... Does all the sealing water flow out through the shaft tube or is there a "drip" into the bilge similar to conventional stuffing?

no drip; dry as a bone....all the lubricating water exits the shaft tube....