Boom Vang question

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kinera's picture
kinera
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Joined: 10/28/08
Posts: 46
Boom Vang question

Does anyone know the minimum safe working load for the boom vang? Also, any suggestions on where to find the best deals on porthole replacements as well as a lewmar type hatch for the V-berth? Thank you!

Jack Bahen
Kinera - 1985 C36 Mk I Tall Rig
Hull # 422
Annapolis, MD

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LCBrandt
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Posts: 1282

More information, please. I don't want to discourage your participation - Welcome, by the way - but our knowing a little more about you and your boat can help us help you. Which model boat? What hull number? Where do you sail?

Catalina 36s were manufactured with various types of portlights over the decades, so it would help if you attached a photo of the specific portlight you're referring to. You can attach a jpeg up to about 320kb in size. A larger file will need to be downsized to make it to this site. If I remember correctly, there are at least two articles in the Upgrades and Maintenance library on portlight replacement. ALSO, the new issue of JibSheet - due out any moment now - has an article on portlight replacement. (Whether it's the model for your boat I don't know.) But give us a little more info and we may be able to help you.

Larry Brandt
S/V High Flight #2109
Pacific Northwest, PDX-based
2002 C-36 mkII SR/FK M35B
 

kinera's picture
kinera
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Posts: 46

Hi Larry - I guess a little more info would be helpful! The boat is an '85 36' tall rig hull #585. We sail her around the Boston area. I will get some pics of the portholes I want to replace tonight. There are three I plan to swap: 1) in the head, 2) across from the head just aft of the V-berth on the starboard side and 3) the opening porthole in the aft cabin.

I am very much looking forward to this winter to give her some of the love she deserves. Laundry list of items to work on including bringing the rig down, replace sheaves in boom and potentially mast head, run new radar dome, new deck and spreader lights, sand/paint/wax mast and boom, potentially paint the decks, remove windless that we never use, add new vang, sand/paint/wax pedestal, add backing plates under winches and load bearing cleats, new sails (any suggestions), potentially new dodger (depending upon budget), add small bilge pump, and make her look as pretty as possible.....

This is forum and I appreciate everything I have learned so far and will continue to learn in the future (most likely while my boat is in pieces and I am trying to put her back together...).

Jack Bahen
Kinera - 1985 C36 Mk I Tall Rig
Hull # 422
Annapolis, MD

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Ken Juul
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Posts: 72

For the vang, soft vangs are usually 4:1 purchase, if you are going with a rigid vang, give the folks at Garhaurer a call.

If it is just the lens that need replacing I recommend Select Plastics, they advertise in the Mainsheet. I think they are in NH or RI so shipping should be minimum for you.

I believe Lewmar sells replacement kits for the front hatches, the US dealer is Pompenette in Fl.

But before you do that I have heard of good results using the 3m product available at most auto parts stores for cleaning fogged head light lenses. I have not attempted my forward hatch yet, but had great results on my cars lenses.

Ken and Vicki Juul
SV Luna Loca
C34 #1090
Chesapeake Bay

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plaineolde
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Posts: 753

This may sound like a stupid question, but..... Has anyone tried something like the 3M kit on the clear plastic 'windows' in a dodger? Mine have a few scrapes, not deep scratches, and are slightly hazy. Getting them replaced ain't cheap and they are otherwise fine.

Gary and Cathy Price
1997 C36 Mk II Tall Rig/Wing Keel Imagine...
Hull # 1617
Worton Creek, Md.
Northern Chesapeake Bay

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stu jackson c34
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Posts: 1270

kinera, I would suggest you reconsider the removal of the windlass. Unless it is completely useless and frozen, or if it doesn't fit the size chain normally used, if it still works, you may find it valuable to you later on, either for your own use or for resale. Some of us with older boats, and older bodies, have been trying to figure out how to install windlasses on earlier boats. It's not easy, but one of our guys did it for a double door anchor well. What windlass is it?

Stu Jackson, C34IA Secretary, C34 #224, 1986, SR/FK, M25 engine, Rocna 10 (22#)

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stu jackson c34
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[QUOTE=plaineolde;6481]This may sound like a stupid question, but..... Has anyone tried something like the 3M kit on the clear plastic 'windows' in a dodger? Mine have a few scrapes, not deep scratches, and are slightly hazy. Getting them replaced ain't cheap and they are otherwise fine.[/QUOTE]

Gary, my understanding is that those plastics are completely different and ti wouldn't work.

My recommendation to you, since they're so far gone, why not just try a small spot and see what happens and report back to us.

Cost for replacement material for dodger windows? I'm having (just) the front windows replaced: $280. C'mon, that is not so expensive. My windows died because I had a ski accident and hadn't put my window covers on. 3 months in the sunlight killed 'em.

Stu Jackson, C34IA Secretary, C34 #224, 1986, SR/FK, M25 engine, Rocna 10 (22#)

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plaineolde
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That's not bad at all. I thought I'd paid a lot more than that, but I may have been getting the dodger re-stitched at the same time. A re-stitch is in the works for this winter, so I'll get a quote. Will try the 3M on the hatches and ports..!

Gary and Cathy Price
1997 C36 Mk II Tall Rig/Wing Keel Imagine...
Hull # 1617
Worton Creek, Md.
Northern Chesapeake Bay

BudStreet
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Joined: 9/4/09
Posts: 1127

We were quoted $44 a yard for 54" width hard 80 mil plastic for windows, Cdn bucks. We are replacing all our dodger windows this winter, the existing are yellowed and scratched. Also replacing the main Dodger and Bimini sunbrella, the existing has leaks in most of the seams cause they were done the quick and dirty way not the slower but right way. Also have to restitch the UV cover on the genoa and do some re-stitching on it and the main. Having bought the Sailrite sewing machine is paying big dividends now. Helps that my bride loves to sew and is good at it!

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Nimue
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Posts: 429

re: your vang question. Mine is a 'soft' vang, 8:1 total (4:1 with 2:1 cascade) and I am planning to make it 16:1 when I get around to it. That will be plenty, as it is nearly adequate now.

Not sure what the total load rating is, but if you assume I am pulling about 50# of force, x the 8:1 ratio, you get 400#. Now there are times I can't pull on it, so double this at least to 800#, and add a safety factor of your liking, most people would shoot for 2:1 on that as well.

I have sailed on lots of boats, and seen a few vangs break. All of the failures I have seen have been in the attachment points to the mast. Not once have I seen the rope or blocks fail. So my advice is to pay considerable attention to the attachments at the ends.

Jason V
Vancouver, BC, Canada

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TomSoko
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Posts: 978

Kinera,
As Ken Juul said, give the folks at Garhauer a call. Their rigid vangs are VERY sturdy. They own Catalinas themselves, and can definitely help. They offer the best bang for the buck for any piece of marine hardware they sell. Period. No relation to the company, just a very satisfied customer for 20+ years.

Tom Sokoloski
C36/375IA Past Commodore
Noank, CT

Molly Malone
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Joined: 7/5/08
Posts: 19

Concerning the forward hatch, I've replaced the acrylic in the forward hatch as well as the ones over the head and and salon. I simply took them to the local plastics company and they put in new material. Gotta be cheaper than replacing the entire hatches. Total cost was $381.

Tom Smith
Molly Malone
1994 Mk 1.5
Std rig/wing keel

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