So I was all set to remove my cutlass bearing (Thanks for the tool!), and I couldn't get past the prop. It looks like it hasn't been taken off. Ever. The original cutlass bearing is crumbing. Bad.
So needless to say after being in the Bay the salt water has taken its toll. I was able to get the castle nut off (thanks to a 1 1/4" socket which I'm putting in the box with the bearing removal tool) and was able to dig the heavily corroded brass cotter pin. I had to break the pin initially, then dig the remains out after taking the castle nut off. Stainless steel pin to replace the brass one?
So..given that the prop hasn't been removed at least in a while, it's a bit stuck. I already have a three-pronged gear puller, but no joy. I have left a few dimples in the end of the prop shaft now...I put some PB Blaster on it and will let it soak overnight. I'd prefer not to wail on my prop with a hammer/mallet. Any other suggestions to unstick and remove the prop? I have a torch to apply some heat, but how hot should it get (or not get)?
Also, when removing the castle nut, those threads don't look good. It almost looks as if the castle nut was cross-threaded the last time it was attached. I can probably get it back on afterwards, but are those threads concerning (picture attached)?
Any guidance from the gurus here?
Kevin Mescher
36MKII #2038
Currently "Gratitude", will become "Stars Align"
It appears that the shaft is bronz. If so you may consider a new SS 322 shaft. I cut mine with hack saw into 4 pieces and pulled out. You will be able to remove the prop then with a little heat.
I removed mine to install a new stuffing box and the hose. It was worn out where the flax was.
You will have to drop the rudder to insert the new shaft.
Sail La Vie 1999 Catalina 36 MKII, M35B-17031, Coyote Point, San Mateo, CA
About Sail La Vie
I would guess if you are able to fit the castle nut again that you would be able to have the propeller secured again, although I think it would be wise not to take risk and renew the shaft.
Also we faced removal of the propeller quite tough and at the end the prop came off but the shaft end was damaged by the puller, a piece broke off.
We had a new shaft made from Duplex-stainless.
Note that you have to remove the cutlass bearing being able to fit the new shaft with the rudder in place and fit a new bearing before putting the prop back on.
Durk Nijdam
S/V "SILER"
Catalina 36MKII - 2001 / hullnr. 2013
Stavoren - Holland
Last year I had the same problem. Here is what I did:
1. Got Map gas torch (yellow). BTW: Tried blue torch first, which was a waste of time.
2. Got CRC freeze spray.
3. Got 10 ton gear puller from Harbor frieght.
Loosen, but do not remove the nut completely as the propeller could fly off with a lot of force causing damage or injury. Tension gear puller on prop a medium amount. Heat prop with map gas, then cool shaft with CRC freeze spray. Tension gear puller then heat prop again. Should come off. Use gloves and be careful where you stand as huge forces are generated.
Ron St. Onge
1995 Catalina 36 MKII Hull 1384
I put a lot of tension on the puller, leave it for a while and use a small sledgehammer to give one serious hit on the head of the puller.
Durk Nijdam
S/V "SILER"
Catalina 36MKII - 2001 / hullnr. 2013
Stavoren - Holland
Yeah, this is late, but I was successful in removing the prop the next day. 24 hours of PB blaster, a gear puller, a MAP gas torch on the hub, and a cold day. When it finally broke it only moved about a quarter inch, but the gear puller got it the rest of the way.
This prop probably hasn't been pulled off ever, so I scraped/brushed out all the old corrosion before replacement. Ew.
A quick note: the castle nut was originally retained by a brass/bronze cotter pin. Nice to avoid galvanic corrosion on the prop shaft, but was mostly corroded itself, so the head broke when trying to extract. Thus when I removed the castle nut, I expect that the remains of the cotter pin trashed the threads like you see above. Lesson learned, and at least i have a breaker bar to get the castle nut off. I put a stainless cotter pin to replace it, since that is (best as I can tell) much less likely to corrode to pieces. There is some chance of galvanic corrosion, but the surface area isn't high and it's near the zincs. I'll cross my fingers.
To all those who use the cutlass bearing removal tool:
I ended up having to use the tool to get the new bearing installed (not hard), and the collets didn't want to come back out of the strut; a little persuasion from some channel locks and a screwdriver and I got them out.
I have also put a 1 1/4" impact socket in the kit for removing the castle nut. It has a 1/2" drive for those of you who want to use a breaker bar (I did) or an impact driver.
Just a word of caution: do not hammer heavily onto the end of the shaft (or use a slide hammer). I've read in a variety of reliable sources that you can damage bearing in the transmission (or even break the transmission case).
Matthew Chachère
s/v ¡Que Chévere!
(Formerly 1985 C36 MKI #466 tall rig fin keel M25)
2006 Catalina Morgan 440 #30.
Homeported in eastern Long Island, NY