Low RPM and overheating only in Gear

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-_.Squint
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Joined: 10/30/11
Posts: 6
Low RPM and overheating only in Gear

Motored out with my brother at the helm. Notice we were only going about 3 knots. I told him to give it some juice. He said it was full throtle. RPMs were only 2200. Temp PEGed at 240.

We put the boat at idle RPM removed the cover over the engine, opened hatches and immediately the temp started droping. We idle/motored back to the dock.

I'm a bit embarrassed to say some of the things I found wrong. I bought the boat a while ago and it has been sitting (not running except once at the dock in neutral since April - 7 months) Anyway we changed raw water impeller, found the antifreeze was low topped it up, found the ATF was not reading, topped it up (these were no doubt low before going out). We burped it and ran it at the dock, RPMs went up to 3200 in idle, we put it in reverse and ran the RPMs up a little and everything seemed fine.

Went out today and while it had only been running for about 7 - 10 minutes tried to bring up the RPMs and could only get 2200 just like the day before. Right away it started getting hot. I wanted to sail anyway so threw up the sails for the day. Coming back in we could run it at around 1400-1500 RPMs and she would not go over about 185-190 but we could not run the RPMs up any higher than that or she would get hot. Brought her to the dock, and ran her in neutral right up to 3200 RPMs no problem.

So, I have low RPMs and overheating in gear. I can tell you the stuffing bushing is dripping water appropriately and has since I've been running it.
I'm wondering if a bag or line got wrapped on the prop or shaft at the dock durning tide. A diesel mech friend tells me that if the fuel has been sitting, it could have water in it and I need to put a stabilizer in it.

Sorry for being so lengthy but wanted you to know the details of how and when she overheats and the RPM restriction.

Any help is VERY much appreciated.

Incidently, I just joined the Association since I bought my Catalina. You look like you have a great site here.

All the Best,
Bill in Fort Myers Beach, FL.
(-_.Squint)

Bill Fredrickson -_.Squint
1988 C36 "Fight The Change"
Std Rig M25xp
Still Trying to Determine Where I'll Live, Florida

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LCBrandt
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Posts: 1282

Bill, welcome.

First thing, please click on 'UserCP', upper left corner of this page, and set up an automated signature including information about your boat. You can use my signature as a model of the kind of info to include in your automated signature. We need this information in order to know what kind of boat we're discussing...it makes a big difference to us old-timers, as we can then clearly visualize the layout and systems that you are grappling with.

Thanks.

Larry Brandt
S/V High Flight #2109
Pacific Northwest, PDX-based
2002 C-36 mkII SR/FK M35B
 

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TomSoko
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Posts: 978

Bill,
It sounds very much like you have a crop of barnacles on your prop that could feed a third world nation. Reverse gear has a higher ratio than forward, so it makes sense that you could reach max rpm while in reverse, but not in forward. It might also be a plastic bag, but I doubt it. Grab a pair of leather gloves and a paint scraper and go at it. Over the course of a season I found my top speed drops by about .7 kts. Upon haulout this month, the bottom was pretty clean, but the prop was covered with a bunch of tiny barnacles. That was using the boat just about every weekend in Long Island Sound waters. I can only imagine how bad the barnacles are after sitting in FL waters for 7 months!!!

Tom Sokoloski
C36/375IA Past Commodore
Noank, CT

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Steve Frost
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Posts: 788

Bill, I would agree with Toms suggestion of cleaning and inspecting the prop as sitting that long there is bound to be some hefty growth on the bottom and prop. The drag created by this growth can be substantial, I have cleaned my own bottom using a snorkle and mask and found that the wetted area is about fifteen acres. If the boat has been in the water for seven years my guess is it has the equivilent of one hairy dog per square yard. This would be like towing about a couple hundred limp hairy dogs behind you. Surprised you could move out of the slip.

As for the overtemp I trust you checked your intake strainer to make sure it is not obstructed and if the heat exchanger has been unmaintained for seven years you may have very little efficiency from it, the engine may cool well enough unladen but, under demand you ask a lot more of the heat exchanger.
There could be one of those dogs stuck in there.

If low rpm is created by added drag of the hull or prop you should see a lot of black smoke as you advance the throttle as the engine will be getting far more fuel than the rpm would require. If the exhaust is not turning black, you may have restricted fuel flow to the engine. Like the bottom if the fuel has been sitting in the tank for seven years you may have something far more frightening than dogs growing in there that could be restricting the filters and limiting RPM. I doubt the symtoms would be from water in the fuel, I hope that is not the case as water can be horibly damaging to a diesel as water is non compressable and if injected into the engine can quickly cause broken pistons, cracked heads and worse. Please check you primary filter for water in the bottom of the bowl.

I congratulate you on your new boat, and understand your desire to go sailing but, my guess is you have some maintenance to do after seven years of sitting, you will want to address the engine temp and RPM issues asap, operatiing it without further diagnosis could risk the engine. I would up needing to overhaul my engine due to an overheat early in the ownership of my boat, it was an expense that was untimely and I had many other things on my bucket list that I would have prefered to dedicate those funds to.

Please keep us up to date on your progress and do not hesitate to look for suggestions here.

Welcome aboard.

Steve

Cepheus dream
C36 MK I # 825
MK I Tech Editor No Mas

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Gary Teeter
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Posts: 49

Bill, I had almost exactly the same symptoms as you are having. The engine ran good at idle and when out of gear would easily rev to 3000+ RPM with no overheating. When underway, the RPM would not go above about 2300 RPM and the engine overheated. My boat had recently had the upgraded 3" heat exchanger installed, so I knew that was not the problem.

I won't bore you with all the things I tried and money I wasted before I found the problem. In the end the problem turned out to be in the muffler and wet elbow. There were two problems:

The first was that at some time raw water flow had been interupted and the muffler inlet got so hot that it burned the resin out of the fiberglass muffler inlet tube. This let the residual fiberglass collapse into the muffler inlet, apparently creating enough back pressure to reduce cooling water flow.

The second problem was that corrosion had built up in the wet elbow so that there was only about a 3/8inch diameter hole for the exhaust to pass through. No wonder the engine had no power!

I replaced the muffler and built a new exhaust/wet elbow assembly out of 1-1/4 pipe. This solved both the overheating problem, and the loss of power.

Gary Teeter
1989 C36 "AnnieG"
Std Rig #966, M25xp
Everett, WA

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Steve Frost
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Posts: 788

Gary, good thought on the restricted exhaust elbow, I had failed to think about that as an issue.

Bill, sorry, I mis-read your post and had in my mind the boat had been sitting for seven years not seven months. You are only towing the equivilent of some small dogs.

Steve

Cepheus dream
C36 MK I # 825
MK I Tech Editor No Mas

-_.Squint
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Joined: 10/30/11
Posts: 6

Hello All and Thanks for the assistance in dealing with my overheating problem.

Larry, I've done the signature bit as best I can for now. I'm not sure where home is but at least for now it's Florida.

Steve, I did get a grin out of your post. Especialy when I found out that you "cleaned your own bottom using a snorkle and mask and found that the wetted area is about fifteen acre".... And I thought I had a big bottom.

Gary, It looks like I may be fortunate and not have a bad muffler and wet elbow. Thanks for the post though. I will save the info.

Tom, I believe you hit the nail on the head with your suggestion.

Update:
Cleaned the hull, prop and shaft.
Started her up tied in the slip.
Ran her in forward up to 2800 RPM (which incidently still maxed her out) the temp stayed at 165.
I believe she is fine now. I wonder if being tied down in the slip might have contributed to the RPMs only going up to 2800.
Also the current was contrary as it was coming pretty strong directy against the stern.

We are due for a bit of a blow for a day or so. I will give a final more definitive update when I get her out.
But indications are strong she is fixed.

I still plan to put some "Sea Foam" in the fuel to suck up any moisture. She has set for 7 months with little running. Fortunately the tank was near full.

I am planning to use some BioBor stabilizer when I add the next fill up. I purchased a new fuel/water separator and fuel filter as I heard they might get bogged up with dead bio/alge after I add the stabilizer.

If anything I'm saying here sounds like rubbish, please take the liberty to tell me so.

Thank You all again for the input and thanks for the Welcome Aboard.

All the Best,
-_.Squint

Bill Fredrickson -_.Squint
1988 C36 "Fight The Change"
Std Rig M25xp
Still Trying to Determine Where I'll Live, Florida

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LCBrandt
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Posts: 1282

Nice signature; thanks.

Given how long the fuel has been in there, you'll want to frequently inspect the glass sediment bowl on the Racor. Water contamination in the fuel ought to be visible in that bowl.

Larry Brandt
S/V High Flight #2109
Pacific Northwest, PDX-based
2002 C-36 mkII SR/FK M35B
 

pierview
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Joined: 9/27/09
Posts: 586

I had a pronblem with buildup in the line from the tank to the water serperator filter where the line goes into the filter and makes a sharp turn. Since the boat was standing so long, you might want to check that filter head too.

Chuck Parker
HelenRita 2072 Mk II
2002 Tall Rig - Winged Keel
Atlantic Highlands, NJ

-_.Squint
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Joined: 10/30/11
Posts: 6

One last Thanks.

The wind was 18-20, gusting up to 23 with fair skys yesterday. I took her out under motor for quite a while. She ran up to 2900 RPM and never went above 180 F.

I had a fantastic day sailing and was able to familiarize myself with my boat a lot more. She sailed nicely at near 30 degrees off the bow. I could not believe it..... SWEET!
I was very happy with her performance. At one point we were running a steady 6.5 - 6.8 knots with one reef in the main and the genoa full blown.

After playing and doing some anchoring drills I motored back in the Ft Myers Beach inlet. Good long run and she stayed nice and cool.

I have a question about mast hieght and bridge clearance but I will put that in another post so this doesn't go off thread.

Thanks Again to everyone who posted to help.... Problem is solved. :)
All the Best,
-_.Squint

Bill Fredrickson -_.Squint
1988 C36 "Fight The Change"
Std Rig M25xp
Still Trying to Determine Where I'll Live, Florida

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Channel Islander
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Joined: 10/8/11
Posts: 378

Squint,

I've been going through my new boat which had sat an unknown amount of time with just occasional go-outs and declining maintenance as the previous owner lost interest. There was plenty of algae in the water separator bowl and housing. So much so that when I opened the drain, some water came out but no fuel - the layer of algae was so thick that it supported the diesel above!

From previous experience I knew that simply changing the filter element and wiping the bowl would be insufficient, so I completely removed the housing and disassembled the entire unit. All surfaces of the centrifuge assembly, as well as every nook and cranny, o-ring, etc., were coated with algae buildup. After washing each piece in diesel and reassembling, that thing is really clean! There's little point in changing the filter element and not breaking down and cleaning the housing assembly if there is algae growth in there to begin with.

Of course there's still algae in the tank and hoses, but the water separator is a major collection point. Upon the long-standing advice of the local diesel expert, I don't use biocide because the dead algae will, as you said, still flow downstream and clog things up. Instead, I have been sold on Soltron, an enzyme-based treatment that eliminates water and also eats (literally) any living crap in your fuel. I have never had a fuel system get as bad as this one, but I've used Soltron successfully in a new Yanmar and an old Volvo. The diesel guy says that in particular if you suspect lots of growth in older fuel a treatment with Soltron is highly to be recommended over biocides. Perhaps the foam you mentioned has the same properties.

More info is available at [url]http://www.navstore.com/soltron.aspx[/url]

HTH

- nick

PS I am jealous, haven't got to sail my new boat yet, after nine days of cleaning/maintenance I am getting anxious! Congrats!

Nick Tonkin
*Former* Website Administrator, C36/375IA
*Former* owner, C36 tr/fk #255, Santa Barbara, CA

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LCBrandt
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Posts: 1282

FWIW, if it were my boat I wouldn't touch that Start button until the remainder of the fuel system (hoses, tank) were cleaned and proven spotless, and a new load of fresh diesel were onboard. Seems to me that the issues you describe are applicable to the entire system.

Larry Brandt
S/V High Flight #2109
Pacific Northwest, PDX-based
2002 C-36 mkII SR/FK M35B
 

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Channel Islander
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Posts: 378

Well, several things play into that, among them financial resources that are spread thin among the many areas of the boat that more or less urgently need attention. The engine did perform without a hitch on the initial view at the dock, on the short trip to the yard for survey, on the sea trial, and on the 23nm run home after purchase. I've not only cleaned out a whole mess of that muck, but have established a baseline at the primary filter and will keep close tabs on how much more crap comes downstream. When I can I'll clean the tank, replace the hoses and polish or replace the fuel. My boat's in the water and in use full-time, so I'm just chipping away at it!

Thanks,

- nick

Nick Tonkin
*Former* Website Administrator, C36/375IA
*Former* owner, C36 tr/fk #255, Santa Barbara, CA

encorec36
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Joined: 12/13/07
Posts: 34

this may be way off track, but three years ago temp started to go up, rpms could advance, but no change in speed.

one of our injectors had failed. One friend, then one mechanic suggested each of the test listed below:

1) with engine runnning (and cover off) use a wrench to crack loose an injector. If fuel starts to leak from the base of the injector and the engine slows, that injector is good. Tighten it and go to the next one. If when loosening fuel leaks, but the engine does NOT slow.....bad injector

2) another test.....if it is an injector, put the boat in reverse and the engine is likely to stall.

Brian Giersch
Encore #1245

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