Coastrider,
That's the million dollar question. Depends on how clean your tank/fuel are. One thing for sure is it will clog at the worst possible time. I have seen filters last an hour and some can go for years. One of the best possible mods is to add a vacuum gauge to the suck side of your fuel system. This way you can see when the filter is starting to clog. If you are having problems with the filters, get the tank cleaned or just put a new one in. On another boat I changed 5 filters, pulled the tank twice spent a ton of time before just putting in a new tank. Never changed a filter in 8 years after that. Maybe about 400 hours. I did also add the gage. Keep your tank full between trips. As for climbing in and out without the steps. I use the main halyard and stand on the the exhaust. I plan to add a second filter with a valve that I can get to on my boat. Might even move my vacuum gage to the cockpit. I kinda view this gage as important as the oil pressure and temp gage. When the filter clogs it will be a bad time and place, the aft cabin will also be full of crap.
This is my 2 cents

Ha! That's a good one. My boat is an '86 MK I with an M25. If your boat is like mine, maybe this will work. What I do is grasp both sides of the companionway hatch coaming (on top about midway forward) then lower myself down using my arms onto the running engine by stepping with my left foot onto the radiator cap. While still hanging, I put just enough weight on my left foot to steady myself then step over the engine and place my right foot onto the cabin sole then let go from above. Watch your shoe laces and be wary of loose cuffs on long pants. I've done this many times in port without fail but I won't try it at sea unless its a dire emergency. One day, I'll install a remote glow plug and start switch at the engine compartment. If you single hand (like me), it is the only way to make use of the compression release. The remote start is probably the best overall solution. If your fuel filter clogs, chances are it will be either the fuel lift pump filter or the secondary but not at the engine. I've never had to deal with clogged filters because I use fuel stabilizer (BioBor) and periodically get the fuel polished (helps clean the tank). In port, I often just let the fuel lift pump run for an hour to circulate and "polish" the fuel. I change all the filters about once a year and try to keep the tank topped off to reduce condensation.

Regards,
John

Great advice from the Governor.

I avoid stepping on the radiator cap as it can damage its pressure seal. Try to step on the exhaust manifold instead. It may be hot.

VERY be careful with doing this on a running engine, especially at sea!

On the Mk 1 I find I can get one foot on the port corner of the galley counter, next to where the steps go, and then step across to the sink, traveling in space two or three feet above the engine, using the open hatch handle to swing on. 

Same on the way up, which is what you mentioned.

Another thing I do is to rotate the engine cover to starboard when I take it off, that is, next to the Nav table. You can get to almost everything on the engine that way (without moving it all the way out of the way) and this allows you to rotate it partially back into place, covering the spinning belt/pulleys, while you make the exit to/entry from topside I described. You can NOT step on the engine cover when it is not secured, but it makes stepping over the running engine to the galley sink counter, and stepping down from the sink counter, a whole lot safer, and the cover rotates in and out of the temporary, belt-covering position in a second.

As others have said, your fuel filters will clog when you are in a heavy seaway -- it stirs up the goop. So keep the system clean!

• I also use ​Biobor and haven't had any problems since starting it.
• Keeping the fuel tank full reduces condensation in its empty space; condensation is water, which is where the bacteria grow, Less water = less goop.
• I recommend moving the Racor filter to somewhere much more accessible than the stock location under the port side dinette seat. I moved mine (and the lift pump) to the space under the galley sink. There'a an article about this by Tom Soko in the Members' section.
• Don't forget your Facet fuel lift pump has a filter on the bottom that needs cleaning periodically.
• Get a second Facet pump; they are cheap and easy to replace if one fails.

- nick

I bought a set of the brackets which hold the top of the stairs to the bulkhead at the top and mounted them about 6 inches below the existing brackets. With the engine housing removed the stairs hang from those brackets with the feet on the deck. The back of the steps have sufficient clearance from the engine to allow it to be run at the dock or at sea. I never liked stepping on that running motor.

I got lucky and saw a pair of the "wall" bracket at a used marine parts store. Cheap. As I didn't have to buy the ladder side, really cheap. I think I have seen pairs of those brackets at Catalina Direct. Those were, of course, new and had the ladder side also. Faced with that, I would probably make something out of maple or birch or even a dense plastic. Other materials should work fine as these brackets are not holding a great deal of weight, as their purpose is just to keep the ladder up against the bulkhead.
I would set the ladder in place with the motor cover removed to make sure that you get good clearance from the motor. On my boat the back of the ladder clears as close as one inch at one place. As far as your shoe laces go, your shoes will still be getting fairly close to the fan belt while climbing the ladder, so even though the footing is much more secure, check those shoe laces before you go up on deck.
 

After Jubilee's (Mk II #1867) engine faltered and quit in extremely lumpy seas (no wind) after having rounded Pt. Conception heading north...I discovered that a second electric fuel pump is a great idea. I put this pump on the engine wall near the pump mounted on the engine. It has an on/ off switch at the engine and is rigged to bypass the regular pump when I want to. This permits a singlehander to bleed the engine from below decks and of course the second pump can be a back up as well. This also eliminates the "how do I get back on deck" problem to some degree.

Hi Al,

Did your engine quit because the plastic filter inside the fuel lift pump clogged or did the lift pump fail? Also, I am curious to know if the M25 will keep running without the lift pump. Seems like it should. Does anyone know? I could experiment by starting the engine then shutting off the ignition (i.e. push in the on/off plunger at the engine control panel) and see what happens. However, I've got one of those Balmer ARS-5 voltage regulators which needs the ignition switch on in order to operate. It is unknown what happens when the engine runs and it is off; unregulated voltage output to the batteries I suppose.

Regards,
John

Hello All,

Regarding my last post, I contacted Balmer tech support about the ARS-5 being off while the engine is running. Looks like there is no issue. The alternator will produce no output current and (I suppose) floats at battery voltage in the same state as if the engine were not running. I guess I can do the experiment.

My question to Balmer Tech Support:

Dear Tech Support,

I have an ARS-5 regulator installed on a Leese Neville Marine Alternator running off a diesel engine. Can you tell me what happens to the voltage regulator when the ignition is turned off and the diesel continues to run? I am specifically interested in knowing if the ARS-5 will be damaged and what output if any the alternator produces. Assume the red wire (battery +) is always at 12 volts and the brown wire (attached to ignition switch) is zero. The engine RPM would be about 1500. Under these conditions, what is the voltage on the blue wire and will the alternator produce any unregulated voltage or current?

Here is the reply:

When the brown wire drops to zero the ARS-5 will shut down. The blue wire will drop to zero and the alternator will also shut down and produce no voltage or current. This will not harm the regulator or alternator.

Best Regards,
Thomas Pusateri

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In my experience, the stabilizer and biocide don't really eliminate the algae and/or sludge.  The reason I say that is that I keep two spare 2.5 gallon fuel jugs onboard, and each time I fill them, I add doses of the best brands of stabilizer and biocide....but each time I refill them at the pump (every couple of months), I notice algae and/or sludge in the bottom of the jugs. 
 
It's often stuck tightly to the bottom of the jugs, so this would fit with the scenario of rough seas knocking it loose and causing a filter clog.

In five years, I've never had a fuel clog, but before I go offshore, I'm going to have the fuel tank thoroughly cleaned.

I confirm that the M25 engine will not run for very long with no power to the Facet fuel pump. The reason it has one, I suppose.

Bummer, I was hoping you really didn't need the electrical system functioning once the engine was running. I guess all modern diesels are that way. Anyway, it is a good point to keep in mind and  thank you for sharing that information.

A quick check of the M25 owners manual specifically states the electric lift pump is necessary. Models 15 and 40 have mechanical charge pumps so (except for starting) those should keep running without electrical power. The bleeding procedure is more involved. I wager Catalina and most other manufacturers stayed away from that type of engine because without some pressure in the fuel lines they were often hard to start.

Regards,
John

In answer to the original question, a remote start switch.... No need to climb to the cockpit as throttle, shut down and starting can all be performed right at the engine, if you have a simple remote start switch. It also helps to have a switch to disable the annoying alarm while working on the engine. Simply leave the key ON and turn the battery switch OFF until you need juice to start the motor. No climbing in and out... You could also hardwire one into the engine bay in about 5 minutes using a simple momentary Cole Hersee start switch.......

The remote start was my conclusion also; see post #3. You also have the advantage of making use of the compression release (assuming the engine is equipped with one). The M25 has one and the manual specifically states that it's purpose is for starting with a weak battery (or when extremely cold). Seems like that could be very handy. I haven't tried it, however.

Regards,
John

Mainsail
That's so simple, it's brilliant. I was getting carried away making this secondly start panel.
Thank you!