Well, we just spent 3 solid days onboard, only casting off lines long enough to move to our new slip (about 300' away). Changed oil, installed a fire port, stainless throttle and clutch handles, new water heater, new running rigging, new electrical panel, new macerator pump, and pulled out a BUNCH of "that oughtta do it" electrical repairs from previous owners. In the process, I noticed it looks like the raw water hoses and the hoses to the water heater need replacing (any more degradation and we'll be seeing the water run around inside). Best I could figure, this adds up to about 27 feet of 5/8" premium reinforced water hose.
Anyone done this already, maybe have a better number for how much hose to buy? I'd hate to come up a few inches short on the last piece, but don't want too much extra....
Dan & Amanda Reed
1989 Catalina 36 #947 Miss America
Fin Keel Std Rig
FL Panhandle
I think I started at 15' and had a much more accurate number to finish after that. Then again not sure how far you are from a W Marine? I am 20 min away. Good luck!
Mike and Nikki Willis
1996 C 36 #1570 "Slip Away"
MK II - Tall Rig - Winged Keel
Fremont, Ohio
When we're at the boat, we're about 30 minutes from WM, I just like to show up prepared and try to buy as much stuff in advance as possible. Including the water heater hoses, I was figuring closer to 25 feet, but that seemed like a bit much the further we got from the boat.
Dan & Amanda Reed
1989 Catalina 36 #947 Miss America
Fin Keel Std Rig
FL Panhandle
Dan,
I just replaced all my hoses this spring. (I just took them all off and cut each length specific) I also bought the hoses from an autoparts store, it is a lot cheaper for the lines you need to run around the hot water heater. Once you get them all replaced its a bit of a challenge to "burp" the lines of air. What I found helpful this season was two things.
1. Once you add the coolant, open the lowest hose on the hot water heater until you have fluid (normally the lowest hose is where you will have the air bubble).
2. Remove the hose at the highest part (on mine its the hose coming off the pipe at the rear of the engine, the hose then runs to the inlet for the heat exchanger), take off that hose and add coolant and then blow into line until it runs back and you can hear it returning to the manifold.
I found this is a lot easier method than the "burp" method & using the bleeder valve. That might work fine when you are replacing a simple thermostat...but all new lines and fluids and you have a lot more air in the lines.
Lastly, I stongly reommend while you have all the hoses off to do a clean and flush of the heat exchanger (and replace the pencil zinc). I do mine every couple of years and it does wonders for the cooling. I actually do both raw and fresh water systems with Rydlme. There is nothing better on the market.
http://www.apexengineeringproducts.com/products/rydlymedescaler/?_vsrefdom=adwords&gclid=CO_2zru_htQCFZOLswodK0YJgw(link is external)
[quote=Abramczyk]... I also bought the hoses from an autoparts store, it is a lot cheaper for the lines you need to run around the hot water heater. ...
[/quote]
Agreed. Big box home supply stores as well generally have automotive heater hose (EPDM rubber) available -- maybe $1.80/ft for the 5/8" i.d. size you were looking for -- which is all you need for the raw water circuit and the hoses to and from the water heater (and the heat exchanger). This is probably less than half the price WM asks for exactly the same stuff. Its cheap enough that you should consider buying a sufficient quantity both to cover measurement errors and to have some extra on board for a repair while at sea.
Matthew Chachère
s/v ¡Que Chévere!
(Formerly 1985 C36 MKI #466 tall rig fin keel M25)
2006 Catalina Morgan 440 #30.
Homeported in eastern Long Island, NY