The condenser placement is like mine.  A couple of points.  First, make sure the thermostat is free of obstructions and that includes the sensor wires should not tock anything around them.  The sealing of the top hatches does effect the efficiency of the unit.  I replaced the liners,  Catalina Direct has replacements available.  The coolant fluid should be checked by a techician.  The air gaps around the freezer compartment should be cleared to allow the cold air to sink to the bottom of the fridge.   Lastly, the thermostat control could be defective.  It is best to have a technician look the unit over.  

Lou Bruska
Sojourn
1986 C-36 Mk 1, 495

 

My freezer temperatures are normally in the mid to high teens and the refrigerator in the low 40s. The setup is the same as yours which I believe is standard from the factory.  When I bought my boat the refrigerator had trouble getting the temperatures to where they needed to be.  I recharged the system with a can of refrigerant from the auto store.  You will need an adapter (check Wal-Mart) to connect the system to the standard fitting used for cars on the can.  

That placement is the same on our '98.You should also insulate the inside of the box with styrofoam sheets cut to size. Home Depot has a good product for that. In addition, a refrigerator fan would help spread the cold air within the box With a fully charged system, our freezer will be in the lower 20s and the refrigerator portion 38 in the fall and 92 in the summer in Florida. Water and air temperature can have a big impact on the system 's effeciciency.

Our 1991 MK 1.5 has the same configuration.  I replaced the control module (?) with heat sink with one of the last ones available from Holland Marine last year and saw a reduction in the constant cycling on-off, but it still underperforms on days over 75 degrees farenheit.  I may look into the self-recharge another member mentioned with an auto cannister and adapter.  Eventually we'll have to drop the big bucks and put in a cold plate to replace the old box. 

David Power, I'm curious why you suggest lining the INSIDE with an additional layer of foam, given the loss in volume inside, plus the less than appealing esthetics of doing so?  I'm looking at spray foaming the outer walls of the box below the counter, plus maybe some foam board on the aft side as Julandra's owner has done.  Yes, it might miss some warm spots, but surely a thick additional outer shell will accomplish CLOSE to what you'd get with inside lining, but without losing the waterproof fiberglass interior? 

I'm also looking at the idea of adding a fan inside, although convection SHOULD mean that the cold air all sinks and leaving the most vulnerable goods at the bottom/back and fruits/vegetalbes on the upper shelf works almost as well?

I do have the impression that the hot space in the port side lazerette makes the unit work too hard, but perhaps high temperatures around the compressor and control panel do not effect performance?
 

Kevin, we at one time thought about adding additional foam on the outside. I don't remember how we were going to do 3 sides; but I did read how someone did drill a series of holes on the outside wall through which he sprayed foam and then glassed over the holes. We were not interested in doing that. The next best option was adding insulation on the inside. We first did it when living aboard using, I think, 1/2 inch styrofoam. With that in place we cruised throughout the west and east coasts of Florida, being able to plan 21 meals on board. We recently redid the insulation, upgrading to 7/8 inch sheets. Still no concern about storage size. Also, with a fully recharged system, in the warm waters of southwest Florida, the system would draw less than 2 amps an hour.

Thanks for that, David.  A photo of your fridge interior would be helpful if  you can manage it someday.  Would like to see how you finished the corners and worked around the ice box and controls.

On Julandra (see photo) the owner added a panel of what looks like 7/8" foam board in the rear area through the aft cabin sliding panel (a challenge) and I believe got into the front space by removing the cubby under the stove and used a long flex tube to spray up under the counter, but drilling holes through the inner wall of the fridge would also work, then seal the holes.  Still, to your point, not as guaranteed to ensure full coverage as doing the interior.

On a lovely C36 out of NY whose name I cannot recall the owner installed a cold plate that solved most issues merely by being so damn cold!  Not sure what the draw is compared to the old Alder Barbour units, though. 

Kevin, as you requested, I am attaching a photo of the interior of our refrigerator, showing the insulation we added. I did not place along the sides or bottom of the evaporator as we do use the area to pack frozen food on extended voyages. Bob, our thermostat setting is at "one'" the warmest setting. Currently, in Florida temps around 90 degrees, with equally warm water, our freezer is at 28 degrees and the box is at 42 degrees. During the winter, these will run 3 to 4 degrees colder. Even now, it is sufficient to freeze the all important ice and keep food frozen. Unfortunately, ice cream is a different matter. How much power do you use at your current setting? During the summer, our unit will draw on average a bit over 2 amps per hour and less than 2 during the winter.

Thanks for the photo and good job, David.  I only wish I could get our old unit to perform anywhere close to that.  When the outside temperature is cold it freezes, but once it is warm, even with the new controller, it not only cannot freeze, it drains the batteries even with the original equipment old charger running non-stop plugged in to shore power. 

I haven't tried refilling the refrigerant, but it is certainly filled with the old stuff and I am certain I need to empty the old stuff out in order to refill it?

I don't know if you turn your system off when at the dock. Our refrigerator technician has told us never to turn it off if you have a choice. Except for the first year or two, since we purchased our boat in 2002, we only turn it off when we have the boat hauled for a bottom job every 3 years. We even leave it on during the 5 months of Florida summer. Two years ago, after a bottom job, we turned it back on and it would not cool, better yet freeze. Our tech checked the system and recharged it as it was really low. It cooled immediately and has continued to do so. Our tech said it is hard on the system to start up after being turned off. He also said the recharging may last a week or a year or more. Our system is old and tired! At this same time I looked at replacing the system. After researching our options, I decided that I would go with an Isotherm. I talked with Isotherm which confirmed that the newer systems are significantly more efficient and would draw about one amp per hour. I will do that if and when my system fails again, instead of recharging. You can even do the install yourself.

If you are not aware here is a good source for information http://kollmann-marine.com/
I replaced compressor and evaporator approx. 5 years ago worked pretty good 1st year but diminished by 2nd
Check wiring I replaced my wiring with #8AWG when i realized the distance. That helped with cycling.
I believe you figured out you can't mix refridgerants old vs. new
Kollman's 12 & 24 V book helped me with recharging which I did 3 years ago Icebox now about 40 degrees after 6-8 hours
Small two battery fan moves air and circulates.
Freezer freezes everything
Aldor Barbour unit says approx 4-5 amp draw in manual. 
My unit cycles on for about 5-6 mins, than off for about 10 minutes originally 4 amps now upto 4.5 amps. It is possible I need to recharge but with 4 cycles per hour the draw is draw around 1.5- 2.0 amps per hour. 
I have a Ganz 80 watt panel that produces about 1-2 amps per hour which helps offset the refrideration while sitting on mooring
Just some random thoughts from my experience but Kollman is a good source!

 

This week my frig unit was replaced on my 2003 C36 #2164.  The refrigerant was leaking at a pin-hole point where the tubing goes thru the box wall. As I understand, the tubing corrodes there at the caulked opening.  I’d had the Freon (?) recharged twice over the last two years, success at first, then returned to never getting colder that 50°F (and never cycling, running all the time. 
Replaced with a Nova Kool unit. 

Steven, I have not heard of Nova Kool. Therefore, I have several questions: 1) what model did you get; 2) what is the evaporator/freezer unit like and any modifications needed for the new one; 3) what does the unit draw, realizing your locale is a bit cooler than southwest Florida; and, finally, 4) is that you doing the install?