As my boat has aged, I've run into a problem with various plastic fittings in the fresh water system failing. The problem usually starts with the pump cycling mysteriously every half hour or so (I have an accumulator) and me going crazy trying to find the source of the leak. I then find a very, very fine leak in a cracked fitting; the one I had this week I could only find by shining a flashlight at the mist until I saw the very fine stream of water; almost like the stream of light in a laser light show. This one was the cold water attachment to the hot water heater (I replaced both, hot and cold sides).
The failed fittings have usually turned brown and brittle like in the pic. The fitting broke off trying to remove the hose, so I cut off the hose, which is also discolored. A new fitting is at the bottom for reference.
I can't find anything in common with the fittings that have failed other than the fact that they're all discolored brown. I now have a fair supply of 1/2" plastic fittings, but may start using brass.
Anyone else have an issue like this????
Gary and Cathy Price
1997 C36 Mk II Tall Rig/Wing Keel Imagine...
Hull # 1617
Worton Creek, Md.
Northern Chesapeake Bay
Yes, my C36 is 18 years old. I just acquired her last June and spending nights aboard I heard the pump cycle on a few times during the night.
I too traced the problem to fine leaks at fittings. When I replace the plastic fitting it doesn't always stop. I, like you have found that I often have to trim the hose connection back about an inch and reseat it before the leak will stop. I just think that the plastic stiffens over time and deforms due to the uneven pressure of the hose clamp. The leaks are never severe (not counting the one time the hot water intake blew off completely) but I carry a spare length of hose and spare fittings on board.
I wish all my problems were this simple to diagnose and repair.
Sam
Capt. Sam Murphy
1994 Catalina 36, Hull 1327
Shoal draft, two cabin model.
Panama City, Florida
Gary, could the brown color be caused by ambioent heat from the hot water heater, or do fittings distant from the heater also show that discoloration?
Larry Brandt
S/V High Flight #2109
Pacific Northwest, PDX-based
2002 C-36 mkII SR/FK M35B
[QUOTE=Capt. Sam;12968]not counting the one time the hot water intake blew off completely
Sam[/QUOTE]
I've had that problem since I bought the boat new; the short piece of hose between the cold water intake on the water heater and the back flow preventor valve would blow off the valve, usually within an hour of turning the heater on when arriving at the boat. I think I've found the solution to that.
I downloaded the manual from Attwood to see what fittings I needed to buy. In the manual, it mentions that the tank is designed so there will be an air bubble in it, to compensate for the pressure when the water heats up. It says the bubble will get absorbed by the water, and you have to replace it. Check out the manual for the procedure in the section titled "PRESSURE-TEMPERATURE RELIEF VALVE".
Now, am I the only one who never heard of this procedure?
Gary and Cathy Price
1997 C36 Mk II Tall Rig/Wing Keel Imagine...
Hull # 1617
Worton Creek, Md.
Northern Chesapeake Bay
You know Larry, I can't really answer that question. The one I replaced this week was on the cold side of the water heater; but that doesn't mean it doesn't get hot. The slightly discolored fitting in the pic I attached is on the HOT water side, so would definitely get very hot. I can't really recall where the other failed fittings have been, but they have all been in that general area, eg., under the settee in front of the galley. You could be on the right track.
Gary and Cathy Price
1997 C36 Mk II Tall Rig/Wing Keel Imagine...
Hull # 1617
Worton Creek, Md.
Northern Chesapeake Bay
I had to replace all the fittings at the hot water tank, they were brown and brittle and leaking. Our thermostat was also toast, it kept popping the breaker and it got the water so hot it blew a line off. That could be part of the problem because those fittings looked like they had a lot of heat. No problems since I put new T-stat on.
Do you know if those thermostats are in any way adjustable? My hot water is scalding hot; I'd like to adjust it down. Couldn't find any reference in the rather skimpy manual (unless it was in the French section). Picture says it's fixed 140 degrees, which I believe is hotter than allowed for a home water heater (something like 110).
Gary and Cathy Price
1997 C36 Mk II Tall Rig/Wing Keel Imagine...
Hull # 1617
Worton Creek, Md.
Northern Chesapeake Bay
Gary, the answer is no, those thermostats don't do anything for engine heating the hot water. While some folks on our C34 Forum say: "That's what faucets are for," Maine Sail disagrees, and is pushing ABYC to require thermostatic outlet valves on ALL engine heated hot water heaters. His very valid concern is that little kids can easily open the hot tap on faucets and really harm themselves. As far as I know, only Isotherm has those valves as part of their OEM. You can buy them separately, and I'll try to find a link and post it.
Try this for starters: [url]http://forums.catalina.sailboatowners.com/showthread.php?p=834467&highli...
I was sure I'd seen one mentioned and pictured on [url]www.sailboatowners.com[/url], but couldn't find it.
I just did a Google search on "thermostatic valves" and got a ton of hits. The trick is finding one with the correct barbs, but even a standard home hot water valve would work if you just bought barb 1/2" connectors into the NPT threads of the valves.
Indeed, having one of those is safer, plus it makes your really hot, hot water last longer.
Here's a link to a valve and manual: [url]http://customer.honeywell.com/techlit/pdf/PackedLit/62-3075EFS.pdf[/url]
Stu Jackson, C34IA Secretary, C34 #224, 1986, SR/FK, M25 engine, Rocna 10 (22#)
thanks Stu; I should have clarified that the water is only way too hot when heated electrically, eg., plugged in at the doc. While it gets plenty hot from the diesel, it's not [I]scalding [/I]hot like it is at the dock. I should turn off the heater at the panel after it gets hot, but have not done so in the past, as it kept blowing the cold water inlet hose off; now that I know that I need to 'replace the bubble' in the tank (per the manual), that problem should no longer occur.
But yes, you are correct, it would be nice to be able to regulate the temperature to a safe level no matter what's heating it.
Oh and the 'child' scalding themselves in this case is 60 years old (me..!). You figure I'd learn...:rolleyes:
Maybe I'll email support at Attwood and see if they have any suggestions.
Gary and Cathy Price
1997 C36 Mk II Tall Rig/Wing Keel Imagine...
Hull # 1617
Worton Creek, Md.
Northern Chesapeake Bay
Gary, it was actually helpful to track that Maine Sail post down, perhaps others could write to ABYC, too.
And finding that valve manual helped, too, 'cuz it answered the question in the link about how to use the valve: you need to remove or loosen the screw at the top of the handle!
We never leave our hw heater electric on for more than the time it takes to heat the water. Learned that years ago. 20 minutes to half an hour is all it takes. Should be included with all the heater manuals, but it ain't...:mad:
Stu Jackson, C34IA Secretary, C34 #224, 1986, SR/FK, M25 engine, Rocna 10 (22#)