I think I put the request in December or it may have been January.
I am putting a request in now and hopefully it will be recieved.

That is too bad. But I do understand the issues with borders. There are probably work-arounds for getting things across the border but I will probably just make something in the shop. Looks like a fun project even if I cross over patent rights.:rolleyes:

So I built a cutlass bearing removal tool. Borrowed some of the ideas and then using some scrap steel and threaded rod I "showed" my students how to make a 400 dollar puller. Works great. Now that I know how to use it, less than a hour to change the bearing.

So if you are in New Bruswick and need to borrow it drop me a line. I have already prommised it to another C36 at our club.

Attached are some pics.

Here are some details on how it was made and a few additional photos of the parts.

Cutlass Bearing Removal Tool

The process for making this cutlass bearing removal tool is fairly straight forward. The materials I used were leftover pieces from student projects (I teach skilled trades at high school). The plate that was used was ¾” but easily could have been ½” thick. The same goes for the threaded rod; I used 1” as that is what I had, ¾” could have been used successfully. Build time was about 4 hours.

1. Cut 2 pieces of plate approximately 4” x 8”. I choose to cut the corners off as well to make it look a bit better.
2. Lay out the centers for the 3 holes in the plate. All 3 for this project were 1”; same size as the shaft and threaded rod. Spacing from center was 2 ¾”.
3. To drill the 1” hole I first predrilled with a ½” regular bit and then used a 1” 4 flute end mill in a milling machine to drill the 3 holes through both pieces of plate at the same time. This ensures exact alignment of the holes.
4. Notch 1 pc of plate to the center hole so it can be slipped over the shaft.
5. Cut 2 pieces of ½” square bar and weld each of the pieces so the nut will not spin or have to be held with a wrench. (See Photo)
6. File and grind all edges smooth.
7. Cut 2 pieces of threaded rod and weld a nut to one end of each.
8. Cut a piece of 1 3/8” ID pipe 4 1/4” long and turn both ends flat on a lathe. This tube is used to collect the old bearing as it is pushed out of the strut.
9. Cut a piece of 1” ID pipe SC40 4 ½” long and turn the outside diameter to 0.010 under 1.25”. This will allow the pieces to slide through the strut. 1” ID pipe tends to be a bit bigger than 1” so it does not have to be milled out. Sand or grind the inside of the pipe to remove any scale or roughness.
10. Cut this pipe in half, length wise on a band saw. Sand and polish all of the edges but keep the ends flat where they will be pushing up against the bearing. (See Photo)
11. You now have all of the parts made. You will also need four 1” washers, two 1 ¼” hose clamps and grease for the threaded rod.
Assemble as per the photos. Make sure you grease the threaded rod and between the washers.

Use a 1 ½” wrench to tighten the welded nuts, alternating between the two. As the push tube sleeves move into the strut you will have to remove first one hose clamp and then the other as it get close to the strut opening. Also make sure the forward plate does not lift off the shaft. I kept one hand on the plate as I took each turn on the nuts.

Once the old bearing is pushed out loosen the nuts and remove the piece of 1 3/8” pipe and the old bearing. Use some liquid soap and cover the new bearing and the inside of the strut. Slide the bearing over the shaft and put the tool back on so the new bearing centers on the 1” center hole. You may have to adjust this as it tends to slide a bit.

Tighten the nuts again, this time pushing the new cutlass bearing into place. Remove the tool and put the prop back on, all in less than an hour. Lend the tool to a friend in need.