Anti-fouling for east coast/Bahamas

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BudStreet
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Anti-fouling for east coast/Bahamas

Wondering what folks use/recommend for anti-fouling on the east coast/Bahamas? Planning to go south next year and since we have to do a lot of work to get the VC17 off (can't put anything over it) I want to get something that will work in those waters as well as in the Great Lakes.

I am currently leaning toward a self-polishing ablative because it doesn't have to be renewed yearly and is self polishing. Of those, Petit Horizons is currently what I'm considering, it has 10% more copper and it is about 20% cheaper than Micron CSC up here.

Has anyone had any experience with this product in any of those waters?

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mutualfun
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Hello Bud:

Hey what we put on in Interlux Ultra. As I talked to the reps in Annapolis and being in fresh water I was told to put on Ultra as it needed to cue and the other Interlux bottom paint would not work and come off very easy before I reached salt water. So this is all I can tell you.
Randy

Randy Sherwood
Mutualfun 1990 # 1057
T/R W/K M35a
Home. Charlotte, Mi.
Boat. St Augustine,Fl.

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deising
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Here in SW Florida, with very warm waters on average, many boaters use Petit Trinidad SR. It is a hard epoxy paint that can be scrubbed and will need to be sanded down after a few applications.

We have been getting 24-30 months on it with very good results. I have not tried an ablative.

Duane Ising - Past Commodore (2011-2012)
s/v Diva Di
1999 Catalina 36 Hull #1777
Std rig; wing keel, M35B, Delta (45#)
Punta Gorda, FL
http://www.sailblogs.com/member/diva-di/

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bboggs
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Here on the Chesapeake I've been very happy with Pettit Hydrocoat. Its water based so easy clean up, no toxic fumes when applying and performance in the water has been more than acceptable. I'm on a haul every other year schedule with a short haul to have a look, powerwash the bottom and replace zincs. After after a year in the water, 5 months since the last diver and 3 months since moving, the bottom had only a light coat of slime and zero hard growth. I've also hauled between seasons without repainting and had good results.

The prop? Well that was a different story.

Based on my experinence with Hydrocoat and discussions with folks using more expensive paints, I don't think I'm inclined to try anything else, though I wish they would do a Hydrocoat with an anti-slime agent.

I can't say from experience but Hydrocoat got decent ratings from PS in FL waters also so it should be a decent choice for warmer salt water conditions.

Bill Boggs
s/v Palmetto Moon
1991 C36, Hull 1128
Herrington Harbor South
Chesapeake Bay

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stu jackson c34
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Here's a discussion from co.com about bottom paints, helpful pointers that are not all area specific.

[url]http://forums.catalina.sailboatowners.com/showthread.php?t=122352[/url]

Stu Jackson, C34IA Secretary, C34 #224, 1986, SR/FK, M25 engine, Rocna 10 (22#)

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Ken Juul
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I use the Horizon mix. Get 2 years with a power wash on the non paint years. Keeps the bottom clean, water line may need an occasional scrub if the boat isn't used alot. Moored in brackish water, sailed in salt on the Chesapeake. For the price I don't think you can beat it. I generally buy 2 gallons, 1 and a quart will probably do the bottom, but I prefer to double coat the rudder, waterline and other high wear areas.

Ken and Vicki Juul
SV Luna Loca
C34 #1090
Chesapeake Bay

BudStreet
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So power washing doesn't remove Horizon? That's good news. The Interlux rep told us you can't power wash their Micron ablatives. Well, you can, but it will just get washed right off into an expensive coloring of the boat yard. He said you had to let whatever is on the hull dry out and then use a stiff brush or broom to take it off. That didn't sound appealing.

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Ken Juul
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It probably has to do with the Boat Yards on the Chesapeake having experience with Ablative. Yes you do loose some paint, so the key is keeping the wand just close enough to remove the fouling and keeping it moving so it acts like the natural action of the hull through the water. A strong PW too close will take the paint down to the gell coat. On painting years I ask the yard to spend some time doing the wash...keeps the paint from building up too thick.

The Horizon can be repeatedly dried with no harm and the boat does not need to be splashed within a certain time period like some paints.

Ken and Vicki Juul
SV Luna Loca
C34 #1090
Chesapeake Bay

BudStreet
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Good to know. For my situation I am really leaning towards this product. The Petit dealer said if I use two colours I only need to paint where the base colour is showing through, that way there should be little or no build up. Plus we haul every year (this winter thing ya know) so it should be easy to monitor the colour and the fact that it can be out of water for the winter lets me paint fall or spring whenever I have time.

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bboggs
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[QUOTE=bstreet;6486]Good to know. For my situation I am really leaning towards this product. The Petit dealer said if I use two colours I only need to paint where the base colour is showing through, that way there should be little or no build up. Plus we haul every year (this winter thing ya know) so it should be easy to monitor the colour and the fact that it can be out of water for the winter lets me paint fall or spring whenever I have time.[/QUOTE]

I did that. I have two coats of black Hydrocoat over blue. And as I last had my boat hauled the same place Ken does, no problem with powerwashing taking too much paint off. It was just as black going back in as it was when it came out. There were a couple of small blue patches where the paint seemed not to adhere properly. These spots were evident when the boat came out of the water and were not caused by the powerwasher. I touched them up, but we'll have to see at the next haul out how they held up since they didnt have a chance to fully dry before the boat went back in the water.

I have seen the water run the color of the ablative bottom paint on some boats but I watched my boat being washed and there was no indication excessive paint was being taken off the water was mainly clear not tinted black.

Bill Boggs
s/v Palmetto Moon
1991 C36, Hull 1128
Herrington Harbor South
Chesapeake Bay

BudStreet
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I was about to start stripping our VC17 off the hull, as Randy Sherman did the manual way with a sander. Acetone will take it off, but it's really slow and nasty and it's going to use gallons of acetone and literally tons of rags.

I did not want to do the sander thing because I already have arthritis in my finger joints and since we heat with wood and I'm in the middle of yearly cutting of wood, I have all the pain in the hands I need. So I looked into soda blasting, was going to cost about $2700 to do that, a lot of that is tenting the boat and controlling dust. So I was facing some hard choices here, none of which were appealing.

This morning I was looking at spec sheets for Pettit's Hydrocoat as Bill had recommended it. I like the idea of water based coatings, I've had good luck with them in past. In the prep instructions it said:

"Teflon based antifoulings should be sanded thoroughly with 80 grit sandpaper to remove the chalky outer surface, wiped
clean of sanding residue, and then may be over coated directly with Hydrocoat. Traditional, soft antifoulings should be removed before applying
Hydrocoat."

So I'm thinking that pretty much says that you don't have to totally strip VC17, which is Teflon based, just make sure it's well sanded and well adhered.

So I sent an email to Pettit asking them to clarify that it can go over VC17 without completely removing it and their tech guy replied "Hydrocoat is the product you need." So I emailed back asking him to confirm directly that it can go over freshwater VC17, not VC17 Offshore but freshwater Teflon based VC17. Cause he really didn't come right out and say that. And he replied that it can. It turns out that Hydrocoat has PTFE in it (Teflon) so I expect that's why it's compatible.

So for Great Lakes sailors heading south, I believe that is the magic bullet. Works in both salt and fresh water, self polishing ablative, can be burnished with 600 grit paper, no buildup, true multiseason antifouling. Bonus - it is also about 25% less money than any other self polishing ablative I can find.

Some days the dice roll your way. Awesome.

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TomSoko
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Bud,
I used Hydrocoat this past year on Juniper, and it works pretty well (Long Island Sound). Not quite as well as Micron 66, but it is literally half the price. If it's compatible, go for it!

Tom Sokoloski
C36/375IA Past Commodore
Noank, CT

BudStreet
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Well, turns out the magic bullet is only a magic bullet for US Great Lakes sailors since for some reason which I have yet to clarify, Pettit does not sell Hydrocoat in Canada. I tried to order 3 gallons of it from 2 Pettit dealers, both of them said they can't order it, didn't know why but it wasn't for sale in Canada.

I asked this of the Pettit tech guy and he said that was true, it wasn't for sale in Canada. Great to know since when I originally emailed them I gave them my full name and address. You would think that......jeez. I asked him if he could tell me why and no answer to that one. So I don't know if it's because Pettit hasn't bothered to get it approved or if it wasn't approved, though I can't imagine why a water based product wouldn't be approved.

On top of that I found a .pdf on compatibility on Pettit's website and for any of their products except SR21 (VC17 clone) over VC17 it said "remove". So you really gotta wonder......

Today we put the frame and winter cover on and I did a test sand with 100 grit paper and I was surprised at how well it was coming off. One blue layer, one copper layer, this dark brown stuff of unknown origin then the gelcoat, which appears to be grayish not white like the topsides.

So I'm going to suck it up, buy lots of ibuprofen and sand the damn stuff off. Then buy Horizons which despite being full of VOCs is readily available up here. And barrier coat since today's test proved I'm going to get into the gelcoat no matter how hard I try not to.

Damn magic bullets!

BudStreet
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Update on how "easy" this is coming off. The VC17 comes off pretty easy, I'd be done by now if that's all there was. But this dark brown stuff under it is proving to be a tough customer. I believe it is a primer of some sort but it is really well stuck to the gel coat. So far I have spent 17 hours grinding away at this with 80 grit paper of which I have used about 35 discs and I am around half done. A nasty, nasty job indeed.

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tgrover
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Hey Bud:

Sounds like you may have VC Tar under the VC17. It is used as an epoxy sealer for the gel coat. Not to be confused with the Interlux 2001 epoxy barrier coat which is either gray or white. Take care.

Tom & Janis Grover

C36 #0949
SR/WK, M25XP
Midland, ON

BudStreet
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Thanks Tom, I suspected it was something like that but without any way to verify for certain what it was the only safe thing to do was take it all off. We are going to barrier coat it in spring, it would be kind of stupid not to do that once it's all back to gel coat.

They say that you enjoy more the things you earned the hard way. I am hoping this to be true!

BudStreet
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Posts: 1127

Update on this, I talked to Interlux about the brown stuff and they confirmed that's likely VCTar and as long as it's well stuck (it sure was!) it is fine to overcoat it with Interprotect once well sanded with 80 grit.

They suggested putting some Interprotect over a small area of it as a test to see what happens, as long as it doesn't craze or lift it's fine since VCTar is also epoxy based. So I got a quart and did that and it seems fine though given the temps now (snowing as I look out the window at the moment) it was touch and go for it to set up, it was 9C when I put it on so I used a heat lamp to help that out a bit.

It took me 3 days to sand off half of one side taking off the VCTar and I did the entire remainder of the boat in 2 days only taking off the VC17, what a difference. A little knowledge makes a huge difference and once again, it came from this forum, thank you Tom! I just wish I had posted about it earlier!

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deising
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Yeah, Bud, as Stu always says, it pays to consult the manufacturer on these matters. They made it and "should" know more about it than most others.

And keep that cold weather to yourself. We had our first cold snap of the season and it dropped down to 63F on my lanai overnight! I have to dive my boat this weekend and I bet the canal water will be near 77F. Almost wetsuit time. :)

Duane Ising - Past Commodore (2011-2012)
s/v Diva Di
1999 Catalina 36 Hull #1777
Std rig; wing keel, M35B, Delta (45#)
Punta Gorda, FL
http://www.sailblogs.com/member/diva-di/

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bakerha
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Posts: 267

Just saw this thread and wanted to make this experience available to all with VC17 and unhappy with it. My previous boat, a C25, on a midwest river had vc17 and it performed poorly in the muddy/slimy waters. A friend of mine ordered a product called SuperShipBottom (I'm not affiliated) and it performed so well over two seasons I decided to give it a try. I lightly sanded the vc17 with 80 grit, cleaned with acetone and applied it. Worked great for one season then I sold the boat. The new owner was happy with the way the bottom looked after a light PW cleaning. It stuck to the vc17 very well and was much easier to apply.

_____________
Harold Baker
S/V Lucky Duck
Duncan Bay Boat Club
Cheboygan Michigan - Lake Huron
1989 C-36 mkI TR/WK M25XP

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