Sid:
Yes there is a automotive type spade fuse on the unit it self, I am thinking it is 15 amp.

Randy

Sid,

Electrical panel with breaker labeled "fridge"

Wire to fridge unit (no fuse on or in wire)

Fuse in or on fridge electronic module where +& - wires land on module screw terminals

That's all there is.

If the OEM wiring doesn't work, replace it.

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I had that problem and ran a separate temporary wire from the inside panel to the contacts on the fridge module to assure proper voltage. #10 wire OEM is a big V drop.

I ended up paralleling the old and new wires and now have proper voltage at the connections at the module.

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It sounds like a voltage issue to me.

Ah sorry Sid about my reply. I was half asleep when reading the posting. Stu did come up with a good idea in what to try. Something to try is a resistance check of the wire unconnected from each end. It might help in in not a need to run new wire, but is a quick check. Also here is a site for the manual if you do not have it.
[URL="http://www.pyacht.com/Adler-Barbour-Installation.pdf"]http://www.pyacht.com/Adler-Barbour-Installation.pdf[/URL]

Here's another A/B manual link: [url]http://www.fujiyachts.net/manuals/Adler-Barbour%20IO%20Manual.pdf[/url]

The electronic module fuse is a 10A fuse. Catalina incorrectly installed 15A fuses on the fridge circuit on the main panels on many, many boats. We switched it to a 10A fuse.

Stu:

I think one needs to look at there own unit very close. As mine calls for a 15 amp fuse in the manual I have. I always go by what the mfg recommends. I see the 2 links that we both posted show that as well. I would not want someone to be mislead as there is bit of knowledge in these fourms.

Randy

Pages 16, 17 & 18 of my link says a 10 A fuse.

Randy has pointed out to me that the manual in his link says 15A and as I've noted my link, which also is my unit's manual, says 10A.

His point to me, quite correctly, is that you should review the material in YOUR manual for YOUR boat.

If you don't have a manual for your own boat and fridge, then you have both Randy's link and mine available to you.

So, what to do?

If it as my boat, to avoid confusion between which manual to choose, I'd first look to see what size the fuse ON THE UNIT was and then match it with the one on the panel.

On many of our C34s, the unit fuse was 10A and the electrical panel fuse installed at the factory was 15A. I changed the panel fuse to 10A.

Your boat, your choice. :cool:

Another thing to keep in mind is that fusing at electical panels is sized to protect the downstream "wire" from overcurrent conditions. It has nothing to do with the "equipment" which is connected to that wiring.

If the wire size is such that it is rated for a 15A safe current, than that is the panel fuse size to use. If you have individual pieces of equipment connected to that wire circuit, they should each have fuses sized to protect the equipment.

Hi, everyone.

What voltage should this 10A fuse be? Reason I ask is that I need to replace mine, but it says 240V 10A. I replaced it with a 32V 10A which is working now, but I'm wondering (since this is a 12V system) shouldn't this be a 12V 10A fuse?

My Adler Barbour manual doesn't say. Just says to get a new one from the factory.

Ben,

An amp is an amp regardless of the voltage. However, the reason for the voltage rating of fuses can be found in this Wikipedia paragraph:

[I]Rated voltage
Voltage rating of the fuse must be greater than or equal to what would become the open circuit voltage. For example, a glass tube fuse rated at 32 volts would not reliably interrupt current from a voltage source of 120 or 230 V. If a 32 V fuse attempts to interrupt the 120 or 230 V source, an arc may result. Plasma inside that glass tube fuse may continue to conduct current until current eventually so diminishes that plasma reverts to an insulating gas. Rated voltage should be larger than the maximum voltage source it would have to disconnect. This requirement applies to every type of fuse.[/I]

So, for our 12V systems, any fuse voltage rating over 16V or so should be fine.

The voltage on a fuse is irrelevant, as far as boat voltage levels go. What matters is the AMPERAGE rating of the fuse, and that it fits properly in any fuse holder.

A reminder: a fuse is a safety device that self-destroys when electrical current exceeds a certain level. It is there not to protect the device at the load end of the wire, but to protect the wires leading to the load. If a short occurs in the load (your refrigerator), a high current through the wiring could cause a fire and burn your boat to the waterline.

A fuse is a simple thing, but it does an extremely important job.

Incidentally, a circuit breaker serves the same function - protecting your boat - but a CB isn't destroyed if an overcurrent situation occurs. A CB can be re-set.

Sounds like I'm ok. Thanks for the input.