Adhesive at top of mast?

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Splendid Isolation
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Adhesive at top of mast?

My father always said, "If it ain't broke, don't fix it."

The job should have been easy: put a new LED bulb and globe on the masthead light that got ripped off in the 80 mph winds that hit SF Bay at the end of last winter, see attached pic. 

But then a boating buddy suggested, if I was going to go up the mast anyway, I could put in a fancy new tricolored/anchor light combo: https://store.marinebeam.com/smart-led-tri-color-anchor-light-and-strobe/ (I'm constantly amazed at how easily my non-boat-owning friends can spend my money)

So, I went up the mast. The first screw broke as soon as I turned it. I should have stopped there, just replaced the bulb and globe and been done. But I didn't (sorry, Dad.)

In my ambition for a new light, I proceeded to break the other two screws off as well. Then, I even managed to completely shear off the stub from the first screw that was now sticking out of the mast by trying to turn it with vice grips. 

Finally, up there among the seagulls, I heard Dad's voice, came to my senses and stopped.

I put the base back on the two remaining stubs, swapped in the new LED bulb and then cunningly used the electrical tape I brought with me to fasten it to the mast. (See second pic.)

The one thing that this fix has going for it is that the weight of the wire in the mast pulls down on the fixture from below, thus giving it a least a micro chance of staying on the mast for the next week. But it's obviously not a permanent fix.  

My question for the assembled Catalina savants here is, now, how do I secure this more permanently? I was thinking of trying Mainesail's butyl tape I have on the boat. Other than that, I'm wondering if silicon adhesive would work better? I'd like to spare the next fellow who goes up the agony of dealing with 5200, of course. But is 4200 okay? 

Joe Bousquin
SV Sylbo
1994 Mk 1.5, hull 1337, M35AC
SF Bay

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pkeyser
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My vote would be to go with 5200 because I don't like heights and there'd be less chance having to climb again to repair the repair. Additionally, aluminum can be difficult to adhere to.

Paul & Wendy Keyser
"First Light"
Rye NH
2005 C36 MKII #2257
Wing, M35B

Splendid Isolation
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Thanks, Paul, you're probably right about doing it once so there's not another trip up the mast.

I'm actually wondering now though about drilling those screws out. I could sheer the other two stubs off, I'm sure, just by putting the vice grips on them. After nearly 30 years, the screws were like rubber when I tried to turn them. Then, I could drill out the holes where they were. 

What I'm wondering is, how difficult is it to run a drill at the masthead.? After being up the mast twice now, it was actually not as bad as I imagined, though I definitely want to limit the trips I have to do. 

I'm starting to think if I can just drill new holes for the new light (maybe using one or two of the holes from the old light) and then use self-tapping screws to mount it, that may not be too difficult.

What are thoughts from folks that have been up there using a drill? How hard is it to drill through the plate on the top of the mast? Any tips on working with power tools up there? 

Thanks, 
Joe Bousquin
SV Sylbo
1994 Mk 1.5, hull 1337, M35AC
SF Bay

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Haro
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Joe, I have not done this myself, but with new and sharp drill bits you can drill new holes for the new light fixture and tap them. Oil the tap to make the job easier. Take extra screws in case you loose them. I would think battery drill machine will work fine. Make sure you do not loose the wire. Use lanocoat on the new screws to make them easier to remove in the future. 

Splendid Isolation
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Thanks, Haro, good advice. If I use self-tapping screws, do I still need to tap the hole after drilling it?

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Haro
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I would not use self tapping screws. They might break in the hole. 

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Siler Starum
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and use sufficient tef-gel on the threaded parts, this will prevent galvanic corrosion and makes it easier to remove when needed.
You have already a lot of galvanic corrosion on the masttop as I can se on the picture.

Durk Nijdam
S/V "SILER"
Catalina 36MKII - 2001 / hullnr. 2013
Stavoren - Holland

Splendid Isolation
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Hi Durk, Yes, I'll definitely be taking tef-gel with me on my next trip up. You are right, that is 30 years of exposure to the weather, I don't think the mast has ever been pulled. 

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Absolutely
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Now that you have come this far, I am liking the thought of installing the new light with new screws, properly tapped, and coated in tef-gel. Does this also mean you could not bother drilling out the old screws and just start fresh with new holes?  It would save you a step and some drilling. Also, the new holes are more likely to be "perfect" for tapping. 

Dale and Nikki

1998 C36 mkII SR hailing from Poulsbo, WA
1989 C25 TR/WK

Splendid Isolation
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Dale, I've been thinking along those lines as well, just sheering off the remaining two stubs and then drilling two new holes for the new light to make less work up there. The only downside of that, of course, is putting new holes in the top of the mast, but I think at 5/32, they would be small enough to not pose much of an issue. 

Splendid Isolation
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Okay, happy to report doing just that fixed the issue. I twisted one stub off with the vice grips, another with a chisel and rubber mallet to get a smooth platform.

Then, leaving the sheered screws where they were, I drilled two 5/32" holes using a hardened cobalt drill bit. It took a little time and pressure, but the holes drilled smooth and clean. I used #8, 1/2 inch self tapping stainless steel screws. I've never tapped before, and after watching several videos online, decided I didn't want to learn at the top of the mast.

In any case, I tightened the screws until they were snug and then stopped, not wanting to strip out the hole. They seemed to get very adequate, tight purchase. The Lanocote unfortunately didn't get on before I screwed them in, but that's something I can hoist my much lighter wife up to do next time we're down. 

Now, I have the tri-color and all-around white at the top of my mast, much better for being seen at night, and it's not held on by electrical tape! Pics here. 

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Haro
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Thanks for posting the end result and closing the post. It helps many others.

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