Refrigerator Foot Pump Left or RIght Hand?

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KevinLenard
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Refrigerator Foot Pump Left or RIght Hand?

After I found the ice box foot pump had failed and looked like it was toasted (year one of our ownership and I was naive about rebuilds and the fact that there was a good reason for it...) I removed it and foolishly tossed it out.  From posts here I realize that draining the box into the bilge is likely also causing there to be a constant vacuum of cold air sucking into the bilge, as well as unnecessary melt water into the bilge.  Oops. 

I'm looking to order a new one (Whale Gusher Galley MK III) but apparently it is either left hand or right hand for the pedal location, but the photos online show both versions with alternately 'right hand lever' and 'left hand lever' regardless of the version in the photo (not at all clear what constitutes which version).  I have found no reference to which side the standard pump was.  Any idea?  Many thanks in advance.

Kevin Lenard
"Firefly"
'91 C-36 Mk. "1.5" Tall Rig, Fin Keel, Hull #1120, Universal M-35 original (not "A" or "B")
CBYC, Scarborough, Lake Ontario, Canada

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Catboat Willy
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Kevin; 
I just put one in to my late 1990 (hull#1041) refrig. Pretty sure it was a 'right hand' model. Take that teak tray out under your stove for better access.

I discovered that same problem of the cold air draining out in to the bilge through the pump. A simple rubber stopper with a long string attached via a long screw will help you remove the stopper when you are done with the frig. The stopper will stop the cold air from draining out of the frig but it's a real reach to get down in there and remove the stopper - hence the screw and string.
Many folks drain the frig directly in to bilge.
We also find that frozen 1/2 gallon water bottles help keep the food cold for up to five days. When those melt there is no water to pump out. We also use a battery operated 'refrigerator fan' to help blow the cold air around inside the frig, a common device used in the RV world (and available on Amazon for about $20.https://www.amazon.com/Camco-Fridge-Airator-Off-Switch/dp/B01E5SNB5I/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=refrigerator+fans+for+rvs&qid=1555294478&s=gateway&sr=8-4)
We keep the meat in a 25 qt. Yeti type cooler from Cabela's since it fits perfectly between the seats and it stays for a week in the Florida heat.
Bill

Bill Dolan 1990 Catalina C-36 MKI - Hull #1041  'Williwaw'
Std. Rig, Walk Through, Wing Keel
M35, Oberdorfer Conversion,
Home Waters; Charlotte  Harbor & The Gulf Islands of Florida
'You are never out of work if you own a boat'

 

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KevinLenard
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Thanks for that info, Bill.  I was hoping that replacing the foot pump and raising the out-going pump-out hose higher than the bottom of the galley sink to prevend backflow of seawater into the fridge would prevent any 'leakage' of cold air into the bilge -- but regardless of creating an airlock, is it not the case that the default situation inside the foot pump is CLOSED (i.e. no free flow of melt water through the pump)?  I'd have thought it only opens to pump water out when you step on the pedal and begin pumping?  Should the normally closed off foot pump (if it is normally closed) not eliminate the need for a plug?

Good idea for the pre-frozen water bottles and the Yeti, although while cruising we'd usually be dealing with bags of cubes and oftentimes a block.  I have a non-functional 12 v cooler (control board burned out) under the former nav table that we use for cans of drinks with bags of ice (occasionally has a zip-locked slab of meat in there for a day or so while cruising).  I pump that out daily with the vacuum pump used for oil extraction in the spring.  Works well without having to lift it out for draining.  Yeti would be better but the price differential is staggering!

I got one of the last few regulators from Holland Marine for the old Alder Barbour last summer and it is cycling on and off a BIT less, but still struggling once the temperature is at summer levels.  One day I'll have to drop the big bucks and replace the old unit. 

I have yet to totally eliminate all 'mystery leaks' into the bilge, hence I'd given up on a dry bilge so the fridge drain was a minor issue, but with a new foot pump I may renew my sleuthing for leaks (likely from the mast and maybe the shower pan or something forward of the foremost access door to the bilge as I can't see the telltale drip lines coming down the hull into the the bilge up there...).

Kevin Lenard
"Firefly"
'91 C-36 Mk. "1.5" Tall Rig, Fin Keel, Hull #1120, Universal M-35 original (not "A" or "B")
CBYC, Scarborough, Lake Ontario, Canada

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Catboat Willy
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Quote; ​ ' I was hoping that replacing the foot pump and raising the out-going pump-out hose higher than the bottom of the galley sink to prevent back-flow of seawater into the fridge would prevent any 'leakage' of cold air into the bilge -- but regardless of creating an airlock, is it not the case that the default situation inside the foot pump is CLOSED (i.e. no free flow of melt water through the pump)?  I'd have thought it only opens to pump water out when you step on the pedal and begin pumping?  Should the normally closed off foot pump (if it is normally closed) not eliminate the need for a plug?

Kevin; Well one would certainly think so but I always felt a little cold air coming from the frig drain that leads to the bilge. It defies logic so I stuffed the plug in the frig.The plug also helps when one has spilled something in the frig - like a can of Coke, milk etc.  - that would be not desireable to have go through the foot pump. Plus you've got to be on the look out for odors.. I think of the frig as 'an assisted ice box' since I only run it when the engine is on. 
That little fan is a great help in moving the cold air around and getting the much colder air off the bottom frig.I put a small battery operated LED lamp in there too for light Those coolers are certainly coming down in price and I think Yeti certanly has some strong competition at a much more attractive pricing. Those Roto-molded coolers are heavy & expensive too. lots of tests on YouTube
  
With drinks in the cockpit; I use a Igloo 52 qt. cooler seat contraption that I made. It gives me a helm seat and an ice filled cooler at the same time. Works out very good since I don't have too go far for an adult beverage. I added some plastic side supports to prevent side slippage and a cushion for the top. I'm thinking of lining the think with additional pieces of foam insulation.

With the water in the bilge, its probably rain water  coming in from the mast. Might be leaky keel bolts or the packing gland but more likely the mast. There are a few articles in tech library about attempts at keeping the bilge dry using smaller, lower profile pumps. (fish tank type) My bilge always seems to have just an inch of fresh water in it due to rain and I sponge it out (until the next time it rains) LOL.
 

Bill Dolan 1990 Catalina C-36 MKI - Hull #1041  'Williwaw'
Std. Rig, Walk Through, Wing Keel
M35, Oberdorfer Conversion,
Home Waters; Charlotte  Harbor & The Gulf Islands of Florida
'You are never out of work if you own a boat'

 

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dpower
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Joined: 6/20/08
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Our 98 came with a foot pump which is connected to the sink drain. There is also a backflow preventer to keep salt water from flowing into the fridge. We added a stopper into the drain and have never removed it in 17 years. We get no water in the box.

David S. Power
Two If By Sea #1687
Burnt Store Marina
Punta Gorda, FL

two-rocks
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Joined: 8/11/17
Posts: 74

We get lots of water in our fridge. Cleaning spills, general cleaning, ICE blocks (rare), defrosting....

Use the foot pump often.

EDIT:  I thought I had a right hand version from memory, but can look this evening and confirm.

https://www.whalepumps.com/marine/siteFiles/resources/docs/resource-library/gusher_galley_v2_0217_db.pdf

EDIT EDIT: In my '05 the bolt pattern matches the image for 'right hand', but they have no image of left hand.

 

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