This piece is prone to failure. I have had to replace mine twice, the last time was just last month. Not sure why this section is different, however it seems to get much hotter than other sections of the hot water line, especially if you use the AC for hot water. It needs to be checked on a regular basis. I am guessing the white plastic piece before the right angle acts as some sort of insulator as it is just hollow. When replacing the hose, make sure you check it and tighten the clamps during the first few hours of use as the hose has a tendency to get soft/expand and then slip off the connectors, even when tightly clamped. If this is a problem, try using a small amount of Permatex # 2 'Form a Gasket,' the non hardening type you can get from Auto Parts stores. I keep a tube on the boat and use it for other hose connections. Especially raw water lines where any small seepage causes salt encrustations. Its black and messy, but really useful. Forgot to mention, the black tube is the hose, not sheathing.
Hope this helps
John Meyer
Heading to Puerto Escondido, MX

In earlier Catalina's the connection is threaded elbow to water heater than the waterline. As your pic's depict you have approx 7 pcs with as many places to be a potential for leaking. I'm sure the clear reinforced water line can handle the heat right from the tank. Use the KISS method with just a threaded elbow from the heater and clamp! The white piece is nothing more than a threaded coupling.

I agree with Gary. We have nothing like that on our water heater, the 90 degree piece on the end that goes into the water hose is screwed right into the water heater hot water outlet. Those plastic fittings go brittle and need to be changed every few years but it cuts out all those potential leak spots.

My boat was just launched and I spent the better part of Monday afternoon chasing leaks at the hot water heater. All related to those pesky plastic fittings. As mentioned above, the heat seems to make them brown and brittle over time and they start to leak. I have vowed to use only brass fittings from now on as I'm tired of fooling with them.

Of course, as soon as I got all of the leaks chased down, the breaker on the heater started popping. We'll see if that continues.

Being in Mexico I had to use a short of piece of clear reinforced hose. I am keeping an eye on it for the next three weeks. After that, the boat goes into dry storage and we go back to the US. There, I can get a more robust hose to bring with me for next season.
John Meyer

I replaced mine last summer. 2 1/2 hour out of the dock, my wife down below at the sink says the tank is empty (all tanks had been filled night before)! :eek:

water in the bilge - hot water tank hose broken...

Replaced with engine heater hose.

You probably have a bit of air in a line somewhere, or a bubble in the hot water tank. It probably will work its way out if you purge all the lines.

If your water temp is high you might want to check your thermostat and make sure it is fastened tightly to the tank, ours had a mounting ear broken off and it was not making good contact, it was letting the water get up to super high temps.

The Atwood water heater instructions say you need to have an air bubble in the heater to allow for expansion, and describe how to restore the bubble if needed. Didn't find that in the Seaward instructions, but the heaters look very similar.

[url]http://www.atwoodmobile.com/manuals/waterheaters/MPD%2093757%20PS%2011.1...

See paragraph following Pressure Temperature Relief Valve.