Have you checked ALL of the connectors, including the solenoid?

I was finishing some varnishing projects today. I had some drying time so I decided to check out my windlass. I found the motor would barely run if at all and the #1 gauge wire between the solenoid and motor was getting pretty warm. I noted the lugs on both ends looked old and in poor shape. Seeing the wire was a little too long I cut both ends off exposing fresh wire and secured new lugs finishing with a good heat shrink tubing to keep future moisture out. I reinstalled the wire and tested the windlass. The motor is now running like new. I should have done this a long time ago.

Chris

There are so many things that effect cathodic protection on a sail boat. I'll list a few.
1. Water velocity. Fast moving current requires much more weight/surface area than still water.
2. Boat usage. A boat that is used a lot requires more cathodic protection that a boat that is used little.
3. Conductivity of water. As the conductivity increases, the possibility of corrosion increases. Salt water is more conductive that fresh water.

Theses above are just a few of the factors that determine corrosion potential.

What can help also protect your boat is a fail safe galvanic isolator. Catalina has been putting them on boats for a while. I have one on my 2003. It isn't fail safe but it's better that not having one. If you do install a galvanic isolator, it needs checked annually.

A complete corrosion survey is the ultimate way to go but that isn't cheap.

I am somewhat supicous of this inviromently friendly thing. You need Mil Spec metal to get you the best protection for your boat and Mil Spec is pretty pure metal. Maybe they mean the anodes were manufactured in an enviromently friendly way?

David

Dave,

Thanks for the info. I don't know if your suggestions apply to my windlass?

I was tied up at dock when I tested the motor. I even had the chain removed just to see if the motor was still ticking, which is wasn't... I often check my windlass while at my dock. I even drop the anchor and pull it back up just in case. Nothing worse than hitting that button while at anchor and finding you now have to pull all that chain by hand.

Seeing the windlass wire was not in the water I don't think electrolysis (AKA hot marina) was my problem. The corroded wire was more likely a result of the PO wrapping the wire/lug connection with electrical tape and the constant exposure to salt water over several years. I would guess the windlass was installed sometime after the boat was built in 1984? It was doomed to fail from the start however it did last quite a few years, like about about 28 years. Knowing the wire was most likely corroded is why I cut the wire several inches from the old ends and started afresh with new crimped lugs and a good heavy duty shrink tubing to make the seal water tight. Fresh cut wire did the job...

As for the galvanic isolator... I installed one several years ago after I bought my boat. Because my marina is so hot I check my zincs regularly and replace them before they disappear... Even with the isolator I still have zinc problems although the problems have slowed way down.

Chris

I thought I placed that response in another thread. Not sure how it got here. Stranger than fiction.

Sounds like you may have some stray current nearby.

My windlass has never tripped a breaker, but for whatever reason whenever I am retreiving my anchor it feels like it is slipping. Does anyone know what is causing that?

Our Maxwell windlass has a clutch which will slip if not adjusted correctly. Not sure if other makes are the same.

All the screws on that panel on our boat are accessible from in the V-berth and the panel comes out fairly easily once they are removed. Tou might be able to grind off that backwards screw with a dremel grinder without making too big a mess. Is it possible the screw is inserted from inside but has had the head snapped off? Easy to do that with SS screws.