This past year I had the unfortunate experience of loosing the main halyard to the top of the mast (DOH):(. To resolve this I tried to hoist my first mate (118 lbs) in a bosun's chair but found that in just a few feet - the halyard (jib) was tight as a guitar string and hoisting was stopped. A friend used his top Climber to retrieve the halyard but the problem remained unresolved. I am planning to fix this problem in the spring but I'm unsure of where to look first. My gut feeling tells me to plan to replace the mast head sheaves but should / could I do some other investigation before climbing the mast? The jib halyard can be easily moved in up and down motions with no load - but as soon as load is applied, even just hoisting the furling jib, things tighten up significantly.
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Harold Baker
S/V Lucky Duck
Duncan Bay Boat Club
Cheboygan Michigan - Lake Huron
1989 C-36 mkI TR/WK M25XP
I was getting this same behavior on my main halyard last summer. Your post just reminded me. I couldn't get the luff taut no matter how hard I winched. I also suspect the sheaves, the Catalina 36 encyclopedia gives the Garhauer part numbers.
I'm guessing your boat is out of the water but with the mast installed. Mine has the mast pulled, I suppose I can take a look easier than you. Next time I'm down at club........if I can remember.
Graham Mackey
SV Nostromo
1989 C36 908
Tall Rig/Wing Keel
Toronto, Canada
It sure sounds like the bearings in the sheaves are shot. Any appreciable load on them and it would be quite hard to move them.
Duane Ising - Past Commodore (2011-2012)
s/v Diva Di
1999 Catalina 36 Hull #1777
Std rig; wing keel, M35B, Delta (45#)
Punta Gorda, FL
http://www.sailblogs.com/member/diva-di/
:( Well I dug out my mast head pictures (only seen it once) and did some further searching on the site (sheaves) and revealed that this will be a mast down or really tall Cherry Picker job. Fore and aft stays have to be removed and the Masthead removed to access the sheaves. Maybe a job for next fall at haulout? My main halyard is a little stiff as well so that may be a good time to do all the sheaves and rig a spare halyard or two as well.
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Harold Baker
S/V Lucky Duck
Duncan Bay Boat Club
Cheboygan Michigan - Lake Huron
1989 C-36 mkI TR/WK M25XP
Harold,
It is a lot easier to replace the masthead sheaves with the mast down, but it can be done without pulling the stick, and without a cherry picker. I wrote up how I did it at the urging of a C34 buddy of mine. Not for everyone, but not impossible, either:
[URL]http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,6055.15.html[/URL]
Hope this helps.
Tom Sokoloski
C36/375IA Past Commodore
Noank, CT
Tom, you one crazy fellah.
Did you put the mast steps at the top after this experience?
Nick Tonkin
*Former* Website Administrator, C36/375IA
*Former* owner, C36 tr/fk #255, Santa Barbara, CA
Nick,
LOL!!! Yes, as a matter of fact, I did! It is now SOOOOOOO much easier to work at the masthead.
Tom Sokoloski
C36/375IA Past Commodore
Noank, CT
You may want to try the mastmate. ([url]www.mastmate.com[/url]) It goes up without being under a load, so it may make it to the top ok even if the bearings are shot. Just back it up with some cam-locks as you ascend in case the halyard or the sheave parts. That way you won't fall too far. Oh, use mountain climbing gear as well, as a backup. See my forum thread where I posted all this. Worked out great. I replace my anchor light a few months ago this way.
Ben Ethridge
Miami, FL
1984 MK1 Hull# 263
Thanks for the input guys, and Tom - Wow! That is quite a process you figured out but I just turned 60 (not a good reason - just an excuse!) so I'll be dropping the mast when it comes time to replace the hardware. I am contemplating going up the mast this spring to try and LUBE things up as a temporary fix but I'd really like to get new sheaves installed. Just hard to part with the $ some times. Haven't decided on the climbing technique yet. The ATN Mast Climber seems like a lot of work so the Mastmate may be the answer for me. Gmackey - if I could get you to snap a picture of your masthead looking into the sheaves from the bottom - would be greatly appreciated. That way I can see if I would be able to lube them when I get there. No rush - spring is still a long way away.
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Harold Baker
S/V Lucky Duck
Duncan Bay Boat Club
Cheboygan Michigan - Lake Huron
1989 C-36 mkI TR/WK M25XP
Harold,
Yes, you would be able to lube the sheaves, if your can of lube has a straw attached to it. If it doesn't, you'll be spraying lube all over the halyard and every other place you don't want it to go. I've attached a photo of what I think you are looking for. Hope this helps.
Tom Sokoloski
C36/375IA Past Commodore
Noank, CT
Tom - thanks for the picture. I hope the sheave is not so far gone that I can keep it functioning for the next season.
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Harold Baker
S/V Lucky Duck
Duncan Bay Boat Club
Cheboygan Michigan - Lake Huron
1989 C-36 mkI TR/WK M25XP