So far I have just moved the instruments and switches into the new case, don't have it mounted. But when I test fitted it on the boat it seemed that the only issue was going to be the stainless steel pipe is about 2" too short. The new Navpod is shorter than the old one and I can't lower it any due to the way the top mounting bolt is installed through the binnacle (from inside out, watch it doesn't fall inside when you undo it). You could lower it if you wanted to drill a new hole, I don't want to do that, fear of the unknown inside the binnacle. I found a piece of PVC pipe that has a 1" ID and I'm going to glue that into the enlarged hole in the bottom of the navpod and have it overlap the SS pipe, then run caulking up inside the bottom of the overlapped joint to keep any water out.

All the instruments fit fine except the tach has to be twisted a little bit off vertical to clear the back of the case. The starter button, ignition switch and alarm buzzer all fit their respective spots, had to enlarge the ignition switch hole a tad. The gauge light and 12V+ wiring in our unit had a lot of extra wire in it and since it had to be changed to fit the new case orientation it was a good opportunity to clean that up. I added a switch into the instrument light circuit so I can turn the gauge lights off at night. The blower switch is a different style so I just got 2 new brass cased switches for blower and instrument lights.

Our boats wiring has been changed in several spots. One change in the panel is that instead of taking the 12V+ feed for the panel from the engine harness they have moved that line direct to the ignition switch. It cuts out about 12' of 14 gauge wiring run since it was coming from the Excite terminal on the alternator. Seems like a good idea to me since that powered up the entire panel including blower and I'm leaving it as is except I increased it to 12 gauge from 14.

There's a circuit breaker in there of 10 amps and I would expect it should be protecting the entire panel but on our boat the only thing downstream of it was the blower fan. I rewired it so that it is protecting all the panel wiring (not the starter button it is wired direct to Ign). I also increased the wire size to the starter button switch, it is now 12 gauge to the switch vs 14 before.

I did a Visio diagram of the wiring as it is now. I can convert it to a JPG if anyone is interested in it. I have just finished the wiring and am going to test it on a battery in the next day or so to make sure what should be live is and vice versa.

There is a terminal strip connector that joins the engine harness to the navpod harness, I mounted that with screws into the back half of the case. When I re-wired it, I left enough wire that I can fold the case open without putting any load on any wires. I used a ton of wire ties to try and make it neater and keep the wiring running the way I want it to when the case is closed up.

Now we're trying to figure out how to make the neat gauge labels and get the "Catalina Yachts" symbol onto the new panel to make it complete. Wish those decals were available from Catalina or Catalina Direct but they don't seem to be. Going to try clear shipping labels printed in a colour laser, not sure how durable they will be though.

Pictures I'm trying to attach (hope it works) show the original rats nest panel wiring and the new one.

This has almost become an article.

Here is a link to a previous thread on this subject.
[url]http://www.c36ia.com/forums/showthread.php?t=352&highlight=navpod[/url]

As noted in my post on page two of the thread, the clearance between the pod and the wheel might be a bit tight for older C36s with a flat wheel instead of a dished wheel. The Lewmar folding wheel we bought from Defender is dished and that provides an extra measure of clearance. We are extremely happy with the new panel and the change in panel location.

Hey Tom! Didn't know you had done this. I think we are OK for clearance on wheel and autopilot, if not I can lower the panel unit down. I just wasn't keen on drilling a new hole in there if I don't have to. Glad to hear that the change works well, the old panel was one of the few things we really disliked about this boat.

What did you use to make labels for your panel?

Bud,

Regarding the labels...My daughter owns a custom trophy shop. As part of her business she makes custom labels for the awards placks. I took advantage of her talent and had her make me custom "To Fit" with custom fonts for my panels.

She uses a process called "Sublimation" which, using heat, imprints a special ink onto metal forming a permanent bond. She uses computer graphics and a word processor allowing for the custom label size and look.

If you would like to look at some of her work let me know and I can send you some photos via email. Otherwise you might want to check out your local Trophy Shop and see what they can do.

Chris

Howdy,
you might try going to what used to be Kinko's (fedex store now) they can make a label as long as you have something form them to work from. I don't believe they can engrave on aluminum but they can imprint on plastic decal type material i got them to do the layout for my circut breaker panel when i upgrade from the old fuse to circut breakers.
regards,
Mike Hogan
#226 s/v Ciscocat

Good job Tom it looks great. I too have a folding wheel; aren't they a wonderful upgrade for our boats? It provides so much more room in the cockpit. My wheel comes within 1/8" of an inch from the pod.

Chris,

I would like to see the finished project with the labels. Can you send photos to the web site?

Glen,

I will be going to the boat on Monday or Tuesday. I'll take some photos and post em...

Chris

Hi Bud;

I purchased a Brother PT-2100 label maker from Staples. It has software that you load on your PC and you can then print custom labels for virtually anything. I used it to print labels for all of my wiring upgrades and after sticking the label to the wire, I covered it with clear heat shrink tubing.

Thanks for all the great info. I thought that wiring pipe might be a problem; wonder if Catalina has it as a part, guess I'll have to check.

Another question; I upgraded my Autohelm wheel pilot to the never Raymarine version a couple years ago. The engagement lever on the wheel drive hits the old style engine panel and I had to cut a piece out to clear the lever. It looks like the new pod, which is angled backward at the top, will clear the lever just fine. Has anyone encountered this issue?

I'd love to see your Visio; if you can convert to jpeg, that would help, my version of Visio is old and won't necessarily read newer diagrams.

thanks for all the info.

Attached is a jpg of the Visio wiring diagram for the new panel. This hasn't been tested on the boat yet so use at your own risk.

Please note that on our boat the 9th terminal on the terminal block is blank on the panel side, there is a pink 14 gauge wire from alternator Exc terminal on the engine harness side. In the stock wiring that wire was used to feed the whole panel +Bat current, it went to the fuel gauge Ign terminal and then from there to everything else through two sets of doubled ring terminals. Probably due to voltage drop it had been cut off from that terminal and moved directly to the ignition switch and I've kept it there since the Ign terminal is fed with a 10 gauge wire there's less voltage drop.

[QUOTE=LCBrandt;3585]plaineolde,

It'd be really nice to know the name of the person we're all trying to help.

UPDATE: Never mind. It's more fun this way. Besides, what matters is that we're helping each other.[/QUOTE]

Profile updated..:o

[QUOTE=bstreet;3598]Attached is a jpg of the Visio wiring diagram for the new panel. This hasn't been tested on the boat yet so use at your own risk.

Please note that on our boat the 9th terminal on the terminal block is blank on the panel side, there is a pink 14 gauge wire from alternator Exc terminal on the engine harness side. In the stock wiring that wire was used to feed the whole panel +Bat current, it went to the fuel gauge Ign terminal and then from there to everything else through two sets of doubled ring terminals. Probably due to voltage drop it had been cut off from that terminal and moved directly to the ignition switch and I've kept it there since the Ign terminal is fed with a 10 gauge wire there's less voltage drop.[/QUOTE]

Thanks a lot for that; I'm sure it will be most helpful. My 2nd concern, after the wiring pipe, was getting all the wiring back the way it was. Digital cameras help enormously.

I've been following this and I'm a sucker for spending money on the boat, but I'm curious. What are you folks doing with the space where the old panel was there on the port side of the cockpit?

The Mark II has a pod on the pedestal, not in the cockpit side. On the earlier boats, or at least my '97, the pod was really not well designed at all:mad: I'm not sure exactly when, but a redesigned pod was introduced sometime later. That's the pod that is being discussed here.

My '88 Catalina 30 had one in the cockpit side, which is probably similar to what you have. I'd say that would make an excellent place for a winch handle compartment, stereo, six pack cooler.... No space goes wasted on a boat.

Y'all,
I updated Tara's helm with the large GrandPrix NAVPOD a couple of years back. Attached is a photo, but the documented details were on the old site and lost on the home network when the worm ate the system's innards.
Note that all the engine instruments are contained (Faria Tach and 4-in-1 Multi Instrument), Standard Horizon VHF Remote controller, NAVMAN GPS, Wind, G-Pilot, and Depth?Speed/Temp Units, Switch panels for all NAV lights, Blower, Floodlights, Fuel Pump, and Instrument Switches, Glow Plug and Starter Buttons, and finally a Jenson Audio remote control.
A whole lot of wiring packed in the 1.25" tubing.
And, the one engineering screw-up! I ran the 12V+ up one tube and the 12V- up the other, forming an electro-magnet that the wet compass loves. Turn on the running lights and watch the compass rotate 20 degrees! Should have twisted the black and reds and ran them up the same tube. Since then I have semi-fixed the problem by replacing all running light bulbs with DR LED units. Pricey, but the compass now stays steady.
What to do with the hole left where the old panel? Buy an access hatch from West Marine (one fits the hole). I stow a fire extiguisher, Olin signal kit, air horn, and a hand-held spotlight inside this hatch, under the port seat. Works like a champ!
Also, why need a key switch? If someone wants to steal your boat, they'll break the cabin door lock, and hotwire the electrical system in 5 minutes anyhow. So why have to carry another key?

[QUOTE=LCBrandt;3629]Also, I want to see more photos of that gorgeous red hull![/QUOTE]

And I want to see more pics of that woodwork you've done on the cockpit coamings! Your boat is an inspiration in more ways than one. How 'bout you show her off for us? That helm setup is incredible, nice wheel, too.

Mike

OK, here's some hull shots from when Tara was in the yard.
I'll have to get a Round Tuit so I can take some topside shots of the teakwork. But I should wait until my contractor finishes the annual topcoat (I gave up maintaining the teak myself...).
Our next project is reupholstering the cabin as the original upholstery is getting a little threadbare in places.

Attached is picture of panel with labelling on it, at least the first cut at it. I used clear labels printed on a colour laser printer. Looks a lot better than a blank white panel.

Looks great Bud. The "Catalina" logo is a nice touch. Best of the season to you!

Lookin' real nice, Chooch and Bud. Thanks for sharing that!

Bud,

Here are the metal labels I told you about. As you can see I used them for my inside panel, especially for the on/off above the switches since Catalina had them labeld "Off" on the "On" side of the switches with an arrow pointing left. It became confusing for anyone new to the boat.

The sublimation process can allow you to make the labels any size you want, from very small to large. You would use the word program on any computer (such as Microsoft WORD) to determine the size and type of font.

Chris

We had a mild day or two early this week (it's minus 26 here this morning though) and I got down to the boat to test fit the new panel. There is clearance between the panel and the wheel of about 3/8" of an inch except where the tach is. These gauges are Teleflex Red International series. The tach has a really thick rim and the wheel was hitting it at the bottom. The stainless steel tube is a little off center but I have a piece of PVC to extend it that can absorb that misalignment and other than those two issues it seems to fit fine.

I took the panel out to my shop and using a 1" board held flush against the flat of the panel I ran it through my bandsaw and cut the plastic of the rim to the same angle as the panel itself and that should fix the interference problem with the wheel.

Only other issue is the wheel autopilot, the black housing for it is so thick it blocks visibility to the very top of the gauges when standing at the wheel. But if you take a step back you can see them fine. At least you don't have to do a contortionist move and bend over to the read the gauges like with the old panel. So at least with a Mark II of our vintage it would seem this panel upgrade isn't a huge issue to do.