Mark,
I don't know of any sailboat manufacturer who still uses wire-to-rope halyards. They were used extensively 20-30-40 years ago, but with the advent of high-tech cordage, why would you? You would have to replace the halyard sheaves, as the ones installed on our boats are designed for rope, not wire. As wire-to-rope halyards wear, they develop nasty "meat hooks". Most owners of older boats which have wire-to-rope halyards are going the other way. They are replacing them with low stretch rope. Just a thought.

I had the wire/rope combo on my last boat (a 36' Lancer) and I really had no problems whatsoever. The running rigging was about 5 years old, and performed flawlessly. I can't speak to replacing the sheaves as my last boat has the rope/wire combo for the whole time I owned it, but again I was completely satisfied. Now, having a Catalina 36 with rope only, I don't see a benefit either way. Both get my sails up effectively.

The nice thing about replacing halyards is that you can change from one color line to different colors for each sail. I have gone to Sta-Set X from WM with good results. They also offer splicing, which I used for the new shackles. I merely cut the shackle off the old halyard, sewed the bitter end of the new halyard to the exposed end of the old and pulled the halyard through.

Mark,

I replaced my running rigging this past year with low-stretch lines and I'm very pleased with the results. I can get adequate tension in the luff and the replacement was very easy to do from deck level.

When I replaced my halyards, I looked in the owner's manual for the length needed. If memory serves me, I think it was 115 feet (standard rig). That length was more than I needed. You may want to check the actual length of your halyards and you may be able to save a few dollars.

While I've sailed a fair amount, I'm literally brand new to boat ownership. Is there a good place to find a technique for replacing the running rigging? Do you replace one line at a time and just run the new line through the same way as you're removing the old one? Do you buy from West Marine or is there a cheaper source? Sorry if I missed a post already explaining this.

I don't think there's any hard and fast rule as to when to replace it; I replace mine when it looks like it needs it.

As to the process, depends on what you're replacing. For halyards. I butt the new piece directly against the end of the old, stitch together with sail twine, then tape it tightly so it will run over the sheaves. Then just pull it through. That actually worked well for the main sheet too, since the boom has a mind of it's own once the sheet is removed. Just about everything else is pretty straightforward.

I'd check Defender along with West Marine. I got really, really lucky last year when a nearby West Marine merged with another and they sold off all the stock. It was something like 60 or 70% off all rope. There was a line at the store, and I bought just about everything I could.

Plaineolde, thanks for the tips.

All my halyards were replaced a season ago. I used all 120' lenghts, because all my lines terminte at the edge of the cabin top. The only line I had made longer was the spinnaker halyard which I had cut to 125'

I have a tall rig, also all lines were 10mm New England Rope V-100 Fleck Vectran Double Braid.

Also the Main sheet was 95' of 10mm New England Rope Endura Braid Dyneema Double Braid.

Forgot

The jib/genoa sheets are 58' and are Samson Rope XLS Extra-T Double Braid

It is great on the hands

[QUOTE=jsc4484;8497]All my halyards were replaced a season ago. I used all 120' lenghts, because all my lines terminte at the edge of the cabin top. The only line I had made longer was the spinnaker halyard which I had cut to 125'
[/QUOTE]

Not saying this is the wrong way to do it; but I like to have several extra feet than required for my main and jib halyards. Every year or two, I like to cut a couple feet off the end that attaches to the head of the sail, removing the part that goes over the masthead sheave. I seem to remember reading somewhere, that the 180 degree turn over that sheave is a high stress point, and removing it is a good idea. Don't really know if that's true or not. Another option is to end for end the rope, which I do for my jib sheets.

That's my approach anyway, certainly not the only way. Certainly does create more clutter in the cockpit, with 10 extra feet of line to coil; always a trade off....:rolleyes:

I use the same method, Gary - cutting off several feet at the shackle end every few years. It may not be critical, but it makes me feel better.