Someone with a Mk 2 should answer you. On my Mk1 the bilge pump wires run aft in the bilge then cross over and go under the Nav station drawers up to the panel. What's your problem? Do you not have voltage at the pump?
Edit,
Sorry i miss-read your question.
I don't remember how my shower sump pump was originally wired. But when I re-did all the wiring, I took the 12v from the port side water pressure pump, running the wire up the port side, around the holding tank, around the mast, to the bilge access in front of the head door where the pump wires come out. So I don't get power to the sump pump unless I have the water pump switched on. But that prob. doesn't help you in the least... sorry :-(
btw in case anyone wonders... I did that so that I could use the panel "Sump Pump" switch for my Bilge pump, thus eliminating the tacky looking add-on "auto/off/on" bilge switch. My float switch is now live as soon as the 1/both/2/off switch is on and my original panel is crisp & clean with no add-ons... (yet ;-)
—
Paul & Ann -
"Freestyle" -
1985 C36 #454 -
North Puget Sound, WA
On my Mk II, there is a rigid tubular wire chase that runs through the compartment under the forward cushion in the dinette. I would assume that the wiring to the shower sump pump goes through that wire chase. Where it goes after that is anybody's guess. :)
—
Gary and Cathy Price
1997 C36 Mk II Tall Rig/Wing Keel Imagine...
Hull # 1617
Worton Creek, Md.
Northern Chesapeake Bay
[QUOTE=plebel;22047]
btw in case anyone wonders... I did that so that I could use the panel "Sump Pump" switch for my Bilge pump, thus eliminating the tacky looking add-on "auto/off/on" bilge switch. My float switch is now live as soon as the 1/both/2/off switch is on and my original panel is crisp & clean with no add-ons... (yet ;-)[/QUOTE]
Paul and Ann -
The "auto/off/on" switch, however, is useful as a redundancy for when the bilge switch fails (notice I said "when", not "if"). You also might want to consider wiring your bilge pump in a manner that bypasses the battery switch altogether, so that its always live even if the battery selector switch is off. The bilge pump is too important a device to have it accidentally left depowered.
(sorry for the slight high-jacking of the thread).
—
Matthew Chachère
s/v¡Que Chévere!
(Formerly 1985 C36 MKI #466 tall rig fin keel M25)
2006 Catalina Morgan 440 #30.
Homeported in eastern Long Island, NY
We where moored in Boot ket harbor in Marathon.
So I wired directly from the orginal panel to the battery compartment across to the aircondioner and batterty charger area around the water pump found a direct piping into the area behind the head.
The funny part of the whole deal when I attached the new pump i had to reverse the wires black to red (white) and brown to black unless the pump would not work correctly.
Thanks for all your replys
—
c36 MKII 1996 #1523
North Star M35
Punta Gorda Fl - Hurricane Ivan
stephenemmerman.blogspot.com
Someone with a Mk 2 should answer you. On my Mk1 the bilge pump wires run aft in the bilge then cross over and go under the Nav station drawers up to the panel. What's your problem? Do you not have voltage at the pump?
Edit,
Sorry i miss-read your question.
I don't remember how my shower sump pump was originally wired. But when I re-did all the wiring, I took the 12v from the port side water pressure pump, running the wire up the port side, around the holding tank, around the mast, to the bilge access in front of the head door where the pump wires come out. So I don't get power to the sump pump unless I have the water pump switched on. But that prob. doesn't help you in the least... sorry :-(
btw in case anyone wonders... I did that so that I could use the panel "Sump Pump" switch for my Bilge pump, thus eliminating the tacky looking add-on "auto/off/on" bilge switch. My float switch is now live as soon as the 1/both/2/off switch is on and my original panel is crisp & clean with no add-ons... (yet ;-)
Paul & Ann -
"Freestyle" -
1985 C36 #454 -
North Puget Sound, WA
On my Mk II, there is a rigid tubular wire chase that runs through the compartment under the forward cushion in the dinette. I would assume that the wiring to the shower sump pump goes through that wire chase. Where it goes after that is anybody's guess. :)
Gary and Cathy Price
1997 C36 Mk II Tall Rig/Wing Keel Imagine...
Hull # 1617
Worton Creek, Md.
Northern Chesapeake Bay
[QUOTE=plebel;22047]
btw in case anyone wonders... I did that so that I could use the panel "Sump Pump" switch for my Bilge pump, thus eliminating the tacky looking add-on "auto/off/on" bilge switch. My float switch is now live as soon as the 1/both/2/off switch is on and my original panel is crisp & clean with no add-ons... (yet ;-)[/QUOTE]
Paul and Ann -
The "auto/off/on" switch, however, is useful as a redundancy for when the bilge switch fails (notice I said "when", not "if"). You also might want to consider wiring your bilge pump in a manner that bypasses the battery switch altogether, so that its always live even if the battery selector switch is off. The bilge pump is too important a device to have it accidentally left depowered.
(sorry for the slight high-jacking of the thread).
Matthew Chachère
s/v ¡Que Chévere!
(Formerly 1985 C36 MKI #466 tall rig fin keel M25)
2006 Catalina Morgan 440 #30.
Homeported in eastern Long Island, NY
Are you asking about the route of the physical wire or how it is done electrically?
Stu Jackson, C34IA Secretary, C34 #224, 1986, SR/FK, M25 engine, Rocna 10 (22#)
We where moored in Boot ket harbor in Marathon.
So I wired directly from the orginal panel to the battery compartment across to the aircondioner and batterty charger area around the water pump found a direct piping into the area behind the head.
The funny part of the whole deal when I attached the new pump i had to reverse the wires black to red (white) and brown to black unless the pump would not work correctly.
Thanks for all your replys
c36 MKII 1996 #1523
North Star M35
Punta Gorda Fl - Hurricane Ivan
stephenemmerman.blogspot.com