As I mentioned in my thread "Water on the cabin sole", replacing the broken hose clamp on the cooling water hose, did not stop the leak from the riser. I removed the riser and brought it home. Called Catalina Direct to order a new one. They have a 4-8 week turnaround time. That would take up most of the remaining season.
I've removed the header wrap, under which is some fuzzy fiberglass and metal mesh. Cleaning up the riser, it looks almost new, other than some discoloration from heat. I'm cleaning up the welded area where the water injection tube attaches to the main tube and don't see anything obvious. I'm going to try to pressurize it and spray soapy water on it looking for the leak.
Since the turnaround time is so long, I"m considering having a welder touch up the weld and reinstall it for now; I'll remove it and send it to Catalina Direct over the off season. For those of you who have DYI built a riser from pipe, etc., what did you use for heat wrap? I have a roll of header wrap, but Catalina used the fuzzy fiberglass with metal mesh under it. Is that necessary or will the header wrap suffice?
I'm not trying to cheap out on the job, but hate to miss the best part of the season waiting for a replacement part. The riser seems sound, so perhaps a weld will take care of a pin hole leak and get me through until I haul at Thanksgiving.
Opinions are appreciated. thanks..!!!
Gary and Cathy Price
1997 C36 Mk II Tall Rig/Wing Keel Imagine...
Hull # 1617
Worton Creek, Md.
Northern Chesapeake Bay
Gary, many folks have gone to Home Depot and purchased pipe insulation. Works just as well.
Stu Jackson, C34IA Secretary, C34 #224, 1986, SR/FK, M25 engine, Rocna 10 (22#)
Thanks Stu.
I just leak checked it with my compressor. I get small bubbles around the weld. I can just barely see a crack around the weld. Attached a crappy cell phone pic, but can't see it. I've tapped it everywhere and it seems quite sound, the blackening is from the rusted metal mesh under the insulation.
Taking it to get it re-welded.
Gary and Cathy Price
1997 C36 Mk II Tall Rig/Wing Keel Imagine...
Hull # 1617
Worton Creek, Md.
Northern Chesapeake Bay
[QUOTE=plaineolde;19361]As I mentioned in my thread "Water on the cabin sole", replacing the broken hose clamp on the cooling water hose, did not stop the leak from the riser. I removed the riser and brought it home. Called Catalina Direct to order a new one. They have a 4-8 week turnaround time. That would take up most of the remaining season.
I've removed the header wrap, under which is some fuzzy fiberglass and metal mesh. Cleaning up the riser, it looks almost new, other than some discoloration from heat. I'm cleaning up the welded area where the water injection tube attaches to the main tube and don't see anything obvious. I'm going to try to pressurize it and spray soapy water on it looking for the leak.
Since the turnaround time is so long, I"m considering having a welder touch up the weld and reinstall it for now; I'll remove it and send it to Catalina Direct over the off season. For those of you who have DYI built a riser from pipe, etc., what did you use for heat wrap? I have a roll of header wrap, but Catalina used the fuzzy fiberglass with metal mesh under it. Is that necessary or will the header wrap suffice?
I'm not trying to cheap out on the job, but hate to miss the best part of the season waiting for a replacement part. The riser seems sound, so perhaps a weld will take care of a pin hole leak and get me through until I haul at Thanksgiving.
Opinions are appreciated. thanks..!!![/QUOTE]
Gary-
When I replaced the riser on my C-30 engine, I purchased precut 3 inch wide fiberglass from West Marine- wrapped several layers, followed by a layer of fiberglass house insulation followed by a final wrap of 3 inch wide woven fiberglass. All in all-maybe 3/4 inch- 1 inch total thickness. The exterior wrap never got hot to the touch. I would suggest not using any fiberglass insulation with a kraft paper backing.
Paul & Wendy Keyser
"First Light"
Rye NH
2005 C36 MKII #2257
Wing, M35B
I saw rust on the muffler below the riser of my 2004 Mark II. I bought a new riser from Catalina then took the old one apart to inspect. It looked fine. I think the rust was from a leaky hose clamp and water on the metal wire which rusted. So I have the new riser with the wrapping and honeycomb mesh if you want to purchase it. I paid Catalina 220 + 42 shipping + 17 tax for total of $279.
Sounds interesting; my only concern is whether or not they are the same size. Catalina Direct insists that you send in your old one, so they can make a new one that's the same.
I'll measure mine and post them; we cans see if they are the same. My engine is an M35A, yours is probably a "B". Not sure if the dimensions of the 2 models would change the dimensions of the riser (or not).
Gary and Cathy Price
1997 C36 Mk II Tall Rig/Wing Keel Imagine...
Hull # 1617
Worton Creek, Md.
Northern Chesapeake Bay
Here is a photo of the new riser. Check with Catalina if this M35B riser is compatible.
thanks, I'll check with Catalina and get back to you. Thanks again..!!
Gary and Cathy Price
1997 C36 Mk II Tall Rig/Wing Keel Imagine...
Hull # 1617
Worton Creek, Md.
Northern Chesapeake Bay
Just a note. If you ever need it..... I ordered 15' of 2" header wrap from JEGS yesterday afternoon; it just arrived today. $17 bucks and free shipping with about 24 hour turnaround. That's pretty good service in my book.:) I'm the first to complain for lousy service, so I try to pass the word when I get better than expected.
[url]http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS+Performance+Products/555/32065/10002/-1[/url]
Gary and Cathy Price
1997 C36 Mk II Tall Rig/Wing Keel Imagine...
Hull # 1617
Worton Creek, Md.
Northern Chesapeake Bay
Just to close this thread. As mentioned, the leak in my riser was a small crack in the weld where the water injection pipe enters the main pipe. I was able to get it welded for $20 bucks (I can't weld stainless); guy used a TIG welder to redo the original weld, then built it up about 1/4" all the way around for strength.
I reinstalled the riser this past weekend and no leak..!! For insulation, I wrapped it first with galvanized hardware cloth (metal mesh) cut into approx' 3" strips; just to create a bit of an air gap. Then some 1" fiberglass pipe wrap insulation, also cut into 3" strips. Then tightly wrapped with 2" header wrap. Once I had it installed, with a new hump hose and gasket, I put an additional layer of header wrap on, including wrapping the ends where the hoses clamp on and at the flange. I had left a bit of room at the ends so I could get at the nuts on the flange and get the hoses on and clamped. All held on with stainless seizing wire.
Since a close examination of the riser indicates zero corrosion and no soot that I could chip out, I think I'm going to forgo replacing it over the winter, which was my original plan. I realize it's 15 years old, but now that it's rewelded, I'm not sure if a new one is going to be all that much of an improvement? Opinions on this are welcome.
Took about an hour to reinstall and wrap it. Only very slightly warm to the touch, so the insulation is working well. Just thought I'd finish this up in case anyone else has a similar situation.
Gary and Cathy Price
1997 C36 Mk II Tall Rig/Wing Keel Imagine...
Hull # 1617
Worton Creek, Md.
Northern Chesapeake Bay
Gary,
Good work and a nice writeup. I think the important parts are: 1) you found the weak link and fixed it; 2) you checked out the rest of it and it looks fine.
Our experience (C34s) is that the "tubes" (both the nipple and the main riser) rarely if ever get clogged, unlike experiences I have read about on Yanmar arrangements. When mine failed, it was about 15 years old and the main riser just above the nipple sheared off. I attributed that to the weld just below it. Our replacement riser (from CY) has been on for about 12 years now and I've checked the inside it both the main riser and nipple section remain clear.
One of our "pioneer" skippers (early '88 boat with a LOT of use) once suggested doing a poll on riser failures based on engine hours. Not much came out of it, since failure rates can be caused by so many different things. IIRC, ours failed somewhere around 1500 engine hours, we have almost 2700 now.
I think you'll be just fine.
Stu Jackson, C34IA Secretary, C34 #224, 1986, SR/FK, M25 engine, Rocna 10 (22#)
Thanks Stu. Yeah, I think that makes sense. I just turned 600 hours this past week; I tend to not go anywhere unless I can sail...:-) I'm also in fresh/brackish water, which I'd assume would have an impact on corrosion.
With 2 kids in college I think I'll put the $400 bucks toward something more urgent.
Gary and Cathy Price
1997 C36 Mk II Tall Rig/Wing Keel Imagine...
Hull # 1617
Worton Creek, Md.
Northern Chesapeake Bay