Any hints or suggestions for replacing the 7/8" hose between the pump at the front of the engine and the heat exchanger right hand rear? It's nearly worn through where it's pinched between the oil filter and the alt. bracket. I've re-adjusted the alt. bracket to now clear the hose. How do I properly refill glycol so I don't get an air lock? Is that a bleeder valve on top of the thermostat housing? If so, how do I bleed it w/o making a mess?
Paul
Skipper, Zatarra I
1985 C36 MkI
Paul, here's what I do
Engine Overheating 101 - How to Burp Your Engine (Reply #6) [url]http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,4518.msg26462.html#msg26462[/url]
In addition, I recently cut back the black elbow hose from under the freshwater coolant pump to the elbow under the alternator by about an inch. This created a much better clearance under/over the alternator/oil filter.
Stu Jackson, C34IA Secretary, C34 #224, 1986, SR/FK, M25 engine, Rocna 10 (22#)
Thanks, Stu, your link to the previous discussion with photos, was very helpful. I've discovered some difficulty in finding replacement coolant hose for a short piece of 3/8" between the thermostat and the water pump just below it. On Zatarra's 1985 Universal (Kubota) M25 diesel, this 4-1/2" hose is pre-formed with a 90° bend. It was suggested by a local diesel mechanic to use fuel line hose, but I found that the hose collapses at the bend. Does anyone supply OEM replacement pre-formed hose in that 3/8" size?? (Please note this hose section is different from that shown in the photo shown in your link.)
Paul
Zatarra C36
I found a hose at a local auto part store.
__/)__/)__/)__Capt Mike__/)__/)__/)__
Punta Gorda Florida
1990 Std WK M35 Hull #1050
Mike's right. Here: [url]http://c34.org/bbs/index.php?topic=7084.0[/url]
This doesn't answer your ? about the 3/8" hose. I just don't know.
Stu Jackson, C34IA Secretary, C34 #224, 1986, SR/FK, M25 engine, Rocna 10 (22#)
I have a few leads on local sources. I'll update when I find a suitable source.
Paul
Zatarra 1985 C36 MkI
The other choice would be to simply buy a copper elbow at a hardware store.
Stu Jackson, C34IA Secretary, C34 #224, 1986, SR/FK, M25 engine, Rocna 10 (22#)
I just went through replacing the hoses. Use 3/8" fuel hose as suggested. It needs to be longer than 4 inches to create a loop with no kinks. For the hose from the water pump I used 2 brass 3/4" 90s and short nipples. This made the corner and then used flex hose back to the exchanger. Heading to the boat soon and if I remember I will take a pic or two.
Ross & Joanne
Wavelength
Saint John NB
RKYC
C36 #658 TR 1987
Attached are my solutions to the hoses. 3/8" fuel hose in a loop so no kinks. Bottom hose I used 2 90 degree brass elbows 3/4" and some short nipples. 2 of the nipples I turned down a bit in a lathe to fit the 1" hose. (silicone high performance... it was a giood price) . The brass could be replaced with SS but I had the brass fittings. This should avoid the wear on the hose as it sneeks arounf the alternator.
Ross & Joanne
Wavelength
Saint John NB
RKYC
C36 #658 TR 1987