Fellow 36ers:
I would appreciate thoughts on the recommended frequency for inspection of the steering system, particularly the cables. I own a 1991 C36 with the standard pedestal and steering system. The system operates well, although the brake is not working too well.
I've checked the cables from down below once for tension, for broken wires, to see if the sheaves are secure, and to lubricate the cables. Everything seemed good.
What should I look for, and what should I be doing in the way of lubrication?
Also, I saw an article in Cruising World within the last year that suggested the cables and chain should be replaced every 10 years, regardless of condiition. Mine are original, I'm sure. Is that a good idea in your view? Too conservative?
Finally, how do I remove the compass from the top of the binnacle to look at the steering sprocket and chain? I don't see anything obvious to unbolt.
Many thanks.
--Nelson
Nelson Lee, "Stella," 2002 C36, hull 2069, Universal M35BC, berthed Sausalito, CA
Go to the source: [url]www.edsonmarine.com[/url]. They have maintenance and installation material.
Stu Jackson, C34IA Secretary, C34 #224, 1986, SR/FK, M25 engine, Rocna 10 (22#)
My steering cables broke while out on a sail in 10-15kt winds. Made for a very strenuous 5 mile trip back to the marina using the emergency tiller, with an aluminum oar over the end to provide some mechanical advantage (you need it, trust me). I don't recommend the experience.
I had inspected/lubed the cables just a couple months before and found nothing that concerned me, eg., no meathooks or anything that looked worn. I believe Edson and others recommend replacement every 5 years, and I'll be following that schedule from now on. For reference, my boat is a 97, and the cables broke in 2007.
Gary and Cathy Price
1997 C36 Mk II Tall Rig/Wing Keel Imagine...
Hull # 1617
Worton Creek, Md.
Northern Chesapeake Bay
Thanks for the advice. Edson does indeed recommend replacing the wire rope at 5 year intervals. I am well, well beyond that. I plan to purchase the wire rope and chain combo from Edson, and replace the shoes on the wheel brake at the same time.
--Nelson
Nelson Lee, "Stella," 2002 C36, hull 2069, Universal M35BC, berthed Sausalito, CA
good idea. I'd like to know how you go about changing the cables out yourself. I didn't have the time, so paid the yard to do it. I'm also not sure if I'd fit through the hatches to get into the lazarette, the yard worker is a good bit thinner than me (6 foot 225lbs.) I need to try to get in there this spring to relocate the rudder sensor for my autopilot and don't want to wind up living down there until someone misses me and investigates :eek:
Gary and Cathy Price
1997 C36 Mk II Tall Rig/Wing Keel Imagine...
Hull # 1617
Worton Creek, Md.
Northern Chesapeake Bay
Gary,
Have a look at the A/P rudder sensor installation I did on High Flight. Check out my article "Installing a Below-deck Autopilot (C36 Mk II)" in the Technical - Upgrades library. The article has a fairly good narrative and photo documentation of the arrangement. The rudder sensor installation I made would apply to Mk I as well as Mk II boats.
Installing the rudder sensor wasn't difficult to do. I just mounted the sensor on a chunk of 2 x 4. Care must be taken to avoid drilling through the cockpit sole. I am particularly pleased with this installation because the entire sensor is out of view, hidden by the quadrant cover, and because there are no fragile items mounted in the lazarette, exposed to possible damage.
In fact, now that I think about it, the entire sensor installation might be able to be accomplished without ever crawling into the lazarette...except for routing the wiring.
Larry Brandt
S/V High Flight #2109
Pacific Northwest, PDX-based
2002 C-36 mkII SR/FK M35B
I'll let you know how this little (hah) project goes. I think it's doable. My boat is a 1991 Mark 1.5 (walk-through transom), which means I can access the drive wheel from the aft cabin down below. Theoretically, it requires removing the compass from the binnacle, and detaching the wire rope where it connects at both sides of the drive wheel, attached to an adjustable eyebolt. Then the old wire can be pulled up through the binnacle, and the new chain/wire dropped down the binnacle and reattached to the drive wheel.
I say "theoretically," because about every boat project I undertake manages to balloon out of proportion pretty quickly, with surprises at every corner.
I'll check back in in a month or so, when I've finished (hopefully) this project.
By the way, the Edson ([url]www.edsonmarine.com[/url]) website is excellent (thank you Stu for the reference). It has detailed information on diagrams and parts organized by boat, including the C36.
--Nelson
Nelson Lee, "Stella," 2002 C36, hull 2069, Universal M35BC, berthed Sausalito, CA
Nelson, you'd be doing all of us a great favor if your photographed the heck out of your cable replacement project, and wrote an article about this for us. Of course, sometimes there isn't much to take a photo of..."now this dark hole is looking down the binnacle...".
Larry Brandt
S/V High Flight #2109
Pacific Northwest, PDX-based
2002 C-36 mkII SR/FK M35B
Larry: I will be happy to do that. --Nelson
Nelson Lee, "Stella," 2002 C36, hull 2069, Universal M35BC, berthed Sausalito, CA
All the help you need is on YouTube , for instance https://youtu.be/270dLsfbR3M
just search Edson steering system on YouTube, lots of informative and how to videos.
Steve Steakley
SNOWBALL
1998 C36 #1711
Seattle,WA
https://svwandrinstar.blogspot.com
WARNING for all owners of circa 1991 C36 (possibly all models). Very poor design of steering quadrant limiter post 'stops'. Yes, we had a grounding which might excuse a portion of this complaint, but please look at the photos I'm attaching and check your vessel.
The metal limiter post that stands erect on the aluminum quadrant should be covered by a piece of exhaust hose to minimize the 'clunking' when it bumps up against the stop when turning the wheel hard to port or starboard (see photo #2). On our C36 the fibreglass 'stop' that the post is meant to hit squarely was not wide enough. The post had been hitting it on the corner and too low, wearing the rubber off of the post and gradually chipping the fibreglass away so that the post was sliding past where it was meant to stop (photo #1). This allowed the wire at the terminal of the starboard control cable to come up incrementally until it was making contact with the brass tooth, eventually wearing the tooth down and severing the cable during the grounding.
YES, the grounding and the pounding of the rudder against the sand was the ultimate cause of the cable break, HOWEVER, the fact that the stop was not sufficiently wide and deep enough to limit the travel of the cable sufficiently would have meant failure at some point out in heavy seas. Make the effort to crawl back there and check your stop on both sides to ensure the limiter post is making correct contact. I screwed in a right angle corner brace with several small galvanized lags from different angles and greased the braces to minimize corrossion (see photo #6), but the area gets little moisture. I will be checking the stops periodically, however, for structural integrity and corrossion.
Kevin Lenard
"Firefly"
'91 C-36 Mk. "1.5" Tall Rig, Fin Keel, Hull #1120, Universal M-35 original (not "A" or "B")
CBYC, Scarborough, Lake Ontario, Canada