Water heater plumbing

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bboggs's picture
bboggs
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Water heater plumbing

Can anyone tell me the purpose for the checkvalve in the water heater line and source for a replacement?

While attempting to to winterize the water system, this fitting broke and dumped out all the antifreeze I had in the line.

I need to get this corrected ASAP so I can complete the winterizing.

My previous boat didn't have this fitting so I'm not sure of its purpose.

The boat is a 1991 C36

Bill Boggs
s/v Palmetto Moon
1991 C36, Hull 1128
Herrington Harbor South
Chesapeake Bay

cillman
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I expect it's to prevent backflow or possibly to keep the hot water tank full of water, so one doesn't burn out the elements by having them partially exposed. I think you're ok for the winter.

Craig Illman, Seattle
S/V Espresso C34 #1150 1991

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TomSoko
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bboggs,
(Sorry, I don't know your name.....you haven't done anything with your signature on the forum) You might want to consider bypassing the water heater when you winterize the water system. There is an excellent article on pages T30 and T31 of the new Mainsheet (11/08) on winterizing. Written by Norm Bernstein, who has owned a C30, C34, and C400. It will save you six gallons of antifreeze, and a LOT of flushing in the spring. For the past 10 years or so I've drained the water heater, and put antifreeze in all of the plumbing. Haven't ever had a problem in CT. Pull the cold water hose off the heater (input) and the hot water hose (output), and connect them together. Drain the water heater into the bilge, and then do the winterizing. Just thought.

Tom Sokoloski
C36/375IA Past Commodore
Noank, CT

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bboggs
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[QUOTE=TomSoko;245]bboggs,
(Sorry, I don't know your name.....you haven't done anything with your signature on the forum) You might want to consider bypassing the water heater when you winterize the water system. There is an excellent article on pages T30 and T31 of the new Mainsheet (11/08) on winterizing. Written by Norm Bernstein, who has owned a C30, C34, and C400. It will save you six gallons of antifreeze, and a LOT of flushing in the spring. For the past 10 years or so I've drained the water heater, and put antifreeze in all of the plumbing. Haven't ever had a problem in CT. Pull the cold water hose off the heater (input) and the hot water hose (output), and connect them together. Drain the water heater into the bilge, and then do the winterizing. Just thought.[/QUOTE]

Tom, thanks, that's the process I was attempting . I was in the process of disconnecting the cold water line when this check valve fitted in line between the pump and heater came loose. It appears it had broken before and the previous owner tried to remedy it with a couple of hose clamps on either side of the break. Anyway it boke on me, and the pump was inadvertly left on while I was in doing this step, so when the pressure dropped it kicked on, pumping antifreeze in my face.

At this point I'm pretty sure there is nothing but air and antifreeze in my water lines and nothing but air in the water heater. I had hoped to avoid the expense, but I've asked the yard to take a look before they haul her today to double check my work.

Bill Boggs
s/v Palmetto Moon
1991 C36
1128,

BTW Should I have recently recieved a Mainsheet? I joined via Paypal a couple of months ago and haven't really seen anything that would clue me that I'm a member of anything.

Bill Boggs
s/v Palmetto Moon
1991 C36, Hull 1128
Herrington Harbor South
Chesapeake Bay

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Spanki
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Posts: 84

I've removed my water heater (rusted out) and replaced with 6 gallon 110 unit from Lowes, Honda 2000 generator loads for 12 min. to heat completely. Can I plug the ports at the engine heat exchanger and eleminate the hoses?:)

Spanki & {Russ 12-8-1949/9-6-2010 R.I.P Butch}
s/v Spanki 1993 Catalina 36 #1224
"Don't worry, Be happy""Sail your life away"

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TomSoko
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Russ,
You cannot just plug the lines. The cooling system relies on the antifreeze circulating through the engine, heat exchanger and water heater. If you remove the water heater from the system, you still need circulation through the engine and heat exhanger. You could attach the ends of the hoses together, or you could eliminate 15-20 feet of hose and just join the two hose nipples together with a shorter piece of hose. Hope this makes sense. If it doesn't, check your engine owner's manual. It has a circulation diagram for the cooling system. There's one on the Tech Notes CD if you can't find yours.

Tom Sokoloski
C36/375IA Past Commodore
Noank, CT

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Spanki
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Thanks Tom, didn't really look at the cooling water schematic until after my post, I did connect the teo hoses together when I pulled the old w/h out. Russ:rolleyes:

Spanki & {Russ 12-8-1949/9-6-2010 R.I.P Butch}
s/v Spanki 1993 Catalina 36 #1224
"Don't worry, Be happy""Sail your life away"

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stu jackson c34
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JJust noted you'd purchased an electric only unit. Any consideration of a unit with both during your selection?

Stu Jackson, C34IA Secretary, C34 #224, 1986, SR/FK, M25 engine, Rocna 10 (22#)

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Spanki
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Hi Stu, Yres when we bought Spanki 2.5 years ago the old w/h was rusted out and the seller gave us a brand new galvanized one that is still in the box as i wanted a stainless unit. After not having one for a few months we learned we loved the additional storage and foun this 6 gallon unit at Lowe's for about $175.00 that takes up less than 1/3 the room. We plan to move to the coast in 2010 or 2011 and will live aboard so we may want a heat exchanger type and switch back, but for now this works great, we can both take a shower and have h/w left over! Russ,"Butch":)

Spanki & {Russ 12-8-1949/9-6-2010 R.I.P Butch}
s/v Spanki 1993 Catalina 36 #1224
"Don't worry, Be happy""Sail your life away"

catalinapilot
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Posts: 54

Our 10 year old MKII water heater acts like it might have a small leak. Symptoms: some very slightly rusty water coming from beneath the heater when it was filled this spring. Not a gusher - just seeping.

It was the factory standard galvanized unit. There is a very small amount of rust showing on the exterior but otherwise it looks good. Hose connections appear to be tight and my sense is that leaks would appear at the hose connection not under the heater nor would it likely be rusty.

Any thoughts?

Finally - looking at a Seaward stainless replacement but uncertain about where the heat exchanger is - front or rear? I think it's in the rear where the hoses from the engine go - only accessible after removing the galley drawer unit. Seaward has two units --- just want to be sure to order the right one.

Thanks for any replies.

Bruce
Southern Comfort #1881
Tall rig, Wing Keel
Chesapeake Bay

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chooch
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Posts: 52

Bruce,

The Seward stainless steel units have aluminum tanks with stainless casings.
Better than the original galvanized casings.
You might also want to consider aluminum casings; save $100 and some weight as well.

Here's a listing to compare:
[url]http://www.defender.com/waterheater.html[/url]

Fair Winds,

Glenn "Chooch" Jewell
Nautae Luna 1232 (RIP Tara 389 Hurricane Sally 2020)
GO NAVY - BEAT ARMY!

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TomSoko
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Posts: 978

Bruce,
You are correct. The electrical and domestic plumbing connections are at the front of the W/H, and the engine/antifreeze connections are at the rear of the W/H. And yes, you need to remove the drawer/door galley unit to remove the old and install the new.

Tom Sokoloski
C36/375IA Past Commodore
Noank, CT

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Ciscocat
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Posts: 244

Hi,
the heat exchanger is in the rear of the heater, just make sure all the air is out of the line and there hoses are not blocked. Just Guess how i know that you need to make sure those two items are taken care of!
regards and smooth sailing

Mike Hogan
s/v Ciscocat #226
Mark I XP25, std rig

catalinapilot
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Posts: 54

Mike ...Thanks much --- Guess I know how you know.

Thanks...

Bruce
Southern Comfort #1881
Tall rig, Wing Keel
Chesapeake Bay

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