Similar to other posts, I am looking at the Rocna 15 (33lbs) or the newer Rocan Vulcan 15 (33lbs). Without a suitable anchor roller, my current Danforth is stowed in the anchor locker. The current setup is a PIA to use. What would be the suitable anchor roller for the Rocna 15? I am looking and the two options from Catalina Direct unless there are better options. My goal is to cut or remove the stubby OEM roller on the starboard side without removing the current stem fitting or the head stay or antiquated hood furler. Obviously the single cleat would need to be replaced with a pair along the rails. I hope these photos help.
Thanks for any suggestions.
—
Russell Green
S/V "GoodwiII" #759
1987 C36 MKI TR/WK M25XP
Moored: Deale, MD
When you cut off the OEM roller, be sure to use short bursts with the grinder otherwise you'll melt the deck.
Nick Tonkin
*Former* Website Administrator, C36/375IA
*Former* owner, C36 tr/fk #255, Santa Barbara, CA
There is an anchor survey, with resulting photos in the member's Technical section - may have some ideas for you.
---- Howard & Linda Matwick ----
--- S/V "Silhouette" - Nanaimo, BC ----
--- 1999 C36 MkII #1776 M35BC ---
Nick - good call with the heat.
Howard - I checked the anchor survey and all of the boats are MKII. Good to see that one of the CD rollers, the 6" extended one, was used. Thinking I will purchase the anchor, then mock up the area to see what bolt on roller solutions work best.
Russell Green
S/V "GoodwiII" #759
1987 C36 MKI TR/WK M25XP
Moored: Deale, MD
Russell,
When I cut the tiny stbd roller off, I found that a URM-6 anchor roller fit pretty well. I had to trim it a bit to fit around the center-line cleat, but the result was worth it. Below is a pic of a Bruce anchor mounted in it, but I think that a Rocna or Manson Supreme would also fit (don't know anything about a Rocan Vulcan). Hope this helps.
Tom Sokoloski
C36/375IA Past Commodore
Noank, CT
[quote=TomSoko]Russell,
When I cut the tiny stbd roller off, I found that a URM-6 anchor roller fit pretty well. I had to trim it a bit to fit around the center-line cleat, but the result was worth it. Below is a pic of a Bruce anchor mounted in it, but I think that a Rocna or Manson Supreme would also fit (don't know anything about a Rocan Vulcan). Hope this helps.
[/quote]
Tom, thank you. That was the exact info I was looking for. Did you end up trimming just the vertical part off the starboard OEM roller off or its horizontal part off as well? What I don't recall, without heading down and seeing the boat, is if the flat part of the roller is continuous and also help hold the front stay to the hull. If just the vertical part only, did you install the new roller over whats left of the starboard stay and through bolt though both. If convenient, a picture from the side looking to the front stay would be helpful. Thanks again.
Russell Green
S/V "GoodwiII" #759
1987 C36 MKI TR/WK M25XP
Moored: Deale, MD
Russell,
You wrote: "Obviously the single cleat would need to be replaced with a pair along the rails."
1. Don't remove the centerline existing cleat. You'll find it is the best thing since sliced bread when you're anchored. If you remove it and depend on the (new) side cleats you'll have a truly rotten fairlead for the anchor rode from the bow roller.
2. There is a philosophical issue with what we call the "old toy bow rollers" and the newer extended ones, at least on our C34 Forum. I believe, and another long term cruiser agreed with me, that the short TOY ones provide a lot less "moment arm" and may actually be more secure than the BIG lever arm for an extended roller. I have a Rocna 10, he has a Rocna 20. I use the roll bar to tie the anchor up to the stanchion, and now use a cleat on the pulpit instead of just a knot. http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,4457.0.html
Think about it before you jump.
Good luck.
Stu Jackson, C34IA Secretary, C34 #224, 1986, SR/FK, M25 engine, Rocna 10 (22#)
Russell,
I cut off just the vertical part of the small OEM stbd roller, and used existing bolt holes where I could. If you look carefully at the pic I posted above, you can see the construction of the stem fitting on the port side. I believe the fitting is one horizontal piece, with four vertical pieces welded to it, plus the thicker piece for attaching the forestay to. Hope this helps.
Tom Sokoloski
C36/375IA Past Commodore
Noank, CT
[quote=TomSoko]Russell,
I cut off just the vertical part of the small OEM stbd roller, and used existing bolt holes where I could. If you look carefully at the pic I posted above, you can see the construction of the stem fitting on the port side. I believe the fitting is one horizontal piece, with four vertical pieces welded to it, plus the thicker piece for attaching the forestay to. Hope this helps.[/quote]
Tom,
I just located the attached photo I took when examining the boat when it was for sale. Same setup as you described. So your replacement roller was placed on top of the remaining horizontal piece on the starboard side? Did you end up making a shim for the replacement roller aft of the remaining OEM piece? Or cinch it down and fill the small gap to the deck? Thinking I will try the original stubby roller based on Stu's feedback for now and see how it works. Might drill a hole through its shank to key it with the existing pin. Will retain the center cleat for the rode but add a dedicated pair of cleats for the dock lines. Looks like with the anchor up there, there will not be adequate clearance to use the exiting center cleat. Great feedback everyone. Thanks
Russell Green
S/V "GoodwiII" #759
1987 C36 MKI TR/WK M25XP
Moored: Deale, MD
Stu, good to see the original stubby roller can hold an anchor. I didn't know that. This will save $$ and time. Your reference threads and all of its associated links were good reads. Thanks.
Russell Green
S/V "GoodwiII" #759
1987 C36 MKI TR/WK M25XP
Moored: Deale, MD
You will find that the OEM "stubby" roller is inadequate for the loads your C36 will produce. I recently removed a long bow roller and am reconfiguring the deck with a manual windlass. In the mean time I have been using the OEM roller. It bent when I was pulling up the 33lb Bruce and chain in about 35ft of water (when the rode was up and down and a swell came ... bent down about 15 degrees, then the anchor broke loose. And this was pulling up manually!!)
Those rollers were put on for use with a light Danforth. With a good anchor and enough chain, the steel just isn't thick enough.
Tom made a good suggestion and the Windline BRM-3 is another good model for our boats.
Nick Tonkin
*Former* Website Administrator, C36/375IA
*Former* owner, C36 tr/fk #255, Santa Barbara, CA
I did this back in 2001 or so but it was tough to find the pic. The useless center cleat was also removed but had not yet been in this shot.. The Herreshoff cleats were backed with 1/4" SS as was the roller. I have this same roller on our CS-36 and it fits the Rocna fine... I grabbed it at Hamilton and it's designed for a CQR....
Just remember anchor rollers are NOT FOR ANCHORING they are like Thule racks for your anchor to transport it rom one spot to the other. Very, very, very few anchor rollers are designed to handle the loads associated with anchoring... Use the mooring cleats when anchored not the roller.......
-Maine Sail
https://www.marinehowto.com/
Hi, everyone.
I have just purchased a 45lb Rocna and am planning to add the mooring cleats, as detailed by Maine Sail above.
However, one thing worries me a bit about this setup. Let's say you cleat off to the starboard mooring cleat (and the rode goes directly from there to the water). In high wind, when the boat swings to starboard, wouldn't the rode tend to chafe on that bow roller or the chainplate (which sticks down about a foot below the top of the bow)? In other words, isn't it bad for the bow or the rode if the rode is pressing hard on the bow?
Ben Ethridge
Miami, FL
1984 MK1 Hull# 263
I think the idea is to use a bridle, bearing the load, attached to both cleats and the rode. That takes the load off the roller, avoids the issue you expressed and reduces effect of vertical motion of bow in swell.
Duncan McNeill
1984 Catalina 36 #178
standard rig fin keel M25
Channel Islands
Beyond consuming three $15 Sawzaw blades, a few 13/32" bits, and pausing every 10 seconds to cool with wet towels, modifying the OEM anchor roller and installing a replacement anchor roller was a straight forward project. 4 hours in total including drilling and cutting the 3/16" SS316 backing plate. The stains on the gel coat is cutting oil and was cleaned off later. The ease of deployment, quick set and holding power of the Rocna is light years better than my prior setup. I should have made the change earlier.
Russell Green
S/V "GoodwiII" #759
1987 C36 MKI TR/WK M25XP
Moored: Deale, MD
This topic was a great help to setup my rocna 15 and a new anchor roller last year. You can find my write up here: https://www.sailinghotelcatalina.com/new-anchor-rocna-15-and-bow-roller-...
I wanted to upload a PDF file of the project too, but it seems we are limited to 2MB upload, so here is a dropbox link:
- https://www.dropbox.com/s/e03w9cvccidpeqo/Catalina%2036%20new%20anchor%2...
Next projects for me on the same topic:
Ludovic François
Hotel Catalina - Catalina 36 Hull #883
Marina Del Rey, CA
Les & Trish Troyer
Mahalo
Everett, WA
1983 C-36 Hull #0094
C-36 MK 1 Technical Editor.
Commodore
Digging this up becuase this project is on top of my short list. Mr. Troyer I am considering the mantus roller as well and am interested to see/ know how your install went and your overall impressions of the system.
Also Im wondering, becuse I'm not 100% clear, of those who grinded/ cut off the vertical section of their roller did you use a shim to extend back and add support for the new longer roller? I haven't seen mention of that being done unless I missed it. I saw it mentioned in some of my research but don't think I read what people are actually doing for this. Thank you.
David Lane
S/V Grace
88' Catalina 36'
Oxnard, Ca