The alternator is not "part" of the engine, that's why the pulley isn't on the Torreson website. The oEM alternators were usually Motorolas.

Your best bet would be to find a local alternator repair shop who'd swap it out for you for next to nothing.

It's always good to find a local alternator repair shop. Thanks again to Chris Stewart of this C36 forum:

[url]http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,7917.msg55085.html#msg55085[/url]

Just curious as to why all the pulleys would need replacing? Not something I've ever heard of before and I wonder what would cause that?

Oh. OK. Unless there's rust inside on the belt contact surfaces I wouldn't worry too much about it, other than from the aesthetics point of view. It's something you will deal with forever with iron in a high salt environement. A tiny nick in the paint and you're going to get rust blooming out peeling paint off, it's a battle you will never totally win. But to each his own.

The alternator should be a Prestolite if it's original. They were called Motorolas because way back when that style of alternator was developed by Motorola though they long ago ceased making alternators. I doubt if you can get the pulley separately, best bet might be to take it off and take it to a shop specializing in alternator repairs and try to match it. The offsets are critical though, it has to be exact.

Universal/Westerbeke makes very few of the parts on these engines, mainly the water cooled exhaust manifold. The rest of the marinizing parts are all out sourced and are mostly available from 3rd parties. The engines are all Kubotas, you might find the pulleys are actually stock Kubota parts. The block number is available in the owner's encyclopedia on the main website, pretty sure the M35B is a V1305 Kubota, take that to a Kubota tractor dealer or look it up online and you can get a parts list for it. Kubota parts are pretty much always mega cheaper than buying them from Universal.

Bigger concern I would have is I note the belt you have on there is a bottom cogged belt. The original belts were top cogged belts, made by Dayco. My experience with bottom cogged belts on these engines turning any kind of load is that they will wear out and break in very low hours, whereas the Dayco TopCog belts will go hundreds of hours. The Dayco belts are more expensive but are well worth it, IMHO.

I answered the question without looking at the pictures.

ITWMB, I'd simply file down the rusted spots, prime them and repaint. The effort and cost to replace the pulleys simply isn't worth it. You have great access and this is a simple fix. The inside of the pulleys are fine, it's only on the outside edges. You don't need to replace those parts.

Yup. Spring launch just ahead. Replaced Sherwood with Oberdorfer, removed heat exchanger and cleaned inside and out, cleaned crankshaft pulley with a wire brush chucked up in a drill motor. Painted all with Rustoleum Universal Metallic Satin Nickel. Very close in color/finish to paint used on the M35B in my 2004.

I should have taken a picture of the heat exchanger were the zinc plugs into. Full of old zinc debris, barnacles, etc.

On thing I do when I change my zinc is to use my wet vac to suck the water out and then it will clean out the stuff in the heat exchanger

I was also having a problem with the crankshaft pulley on my M35BC engine rusting. After cleaning the pulley groove with scotchbrite I installed a small electric heater(golden rod) which is typically used in gun safes. This is
attached to the inside of the engine cover just below the level of the crankshaft pulley. The small amount of heat it
releases seems to have reduced my rusting. Of course this only gets used when my boat is supplied with shore 
power, but that is where my C36 spends most of its time.