Removing and reinstalling the steering wheel is a slam dunk. Easy. I just had it off today doing some maintenance in the engine pod. I set the wheel against the lifelines/stern pulpit and either tie it in place with some light line, or as today I used a short bungie to hold it in place.

Just keep in mind that you need the rudder centered to ensure that the key slot is on the top side of the wheel axle, otherwise the key could fall out of the slot. I set the wheel friction whenever removing the wheel, for the same reason.

Larry,
Not every wheel shaft will have the key slot facing upwards when the rudder is centered. It all depends on how/where the chain was placed on the sprocket when it was installed. In a perfect world you would be 100% correct. I know that my key slot was nowhere near TDC when the rudder was centered. I don't know if it came that way from the factory, or if I changed it during one of the several times I've taken the steering system apart. I think the important idea is to have the key slot facing up when you take the wheel off, no matter where the rudder is.

You're right, Tom.

And here I was assuming it was a 100% perfect world. Silly me. Well, each owner will have to determine the wheel position at which the slot is on top, but there's no way to tell without removing the steering wheel that first time.

Tom is very right. As just with ours I wanted to make sure it was on top so it took a little work in adjustments. As I have wrapped our wheel with parachute cord and made a knot at top so I know the wheel is at center when sailing or I use it to show how much weather helm we have. We went to a 40 inch wheel a few years ago so it took up more room and trying to get around it. So while working I designed and aluminum posts and bracket to set it on off of our bikini. I have a small wooden handle that slips over the shaft while at anchor that a friend made for us as it allows for steerage then. But if any bad weather is in the way the wheel goes back on as each night on anchor it goes back on no mater what.

How does the wheel actually come off?
Do I just unscrew the knob and pull on the wheel?
I have an autopilot ring on my wheel. Is there anything I need to be concerned with regarding that unit?

[QUOTE=blair;14357]How does the wheel actually come off?
Do I just unscrew the knob and pull on the wheel?
I have an autopilot ring on my wheel. Is there anything I need to be concerned with regarding that unit?[/QUOTE]

If you have a Autohelm/Raymarine wheel pilot the ring and motor will go with the wheel. Therefore you'll need to disconnect the wire to the motor if you want to attempt this. My old Autohelm did not have a connector to facilitate removing the wheel and motor/drive as a unit but my new Raymarine X5 does.

As much as I'd like the extra manuvering room, I just think this would be more hassle than its worth for me.

Yep, just remove the big nut (the one on the wheel, not the one behind the wheel), and pull the steering wheel off the axle. It's very easy to do. I see no need for a folding wheel.

I removed the wheel, and stored it against the lifelines with Velcro straps.
I reinstalled the nut and friction lock while wheel was stored.
Reinstallation was a snap too.
The problem I have now is the friction lock tightens, but it does not work. The wheel has the same tension on it, no matter how much I tighten the tensioner down.
How did I break this?

Blair,
By your comments I think you have the newer Edson friction lock, which is in the center of the wheel axle? Older models have a friction lock knob on the side of the pedestal. There could be several things that went wrong with the friction lock. The one that happened to mine recently was one of the C-clips that held the wheel axle in place had slipped off. It was still on the axle, held in place by grease, but it had come out of it's groove. The axle had slipped ?aft-forward?, making the friction brake useless. I'd suggest going to the Edson website and looking at a schematic of your pedestal. You can then identify all the parts, and see where they should be. If you still can't find the problem, give a call to Edson. I have found them to be EXTREMELY helpful in the past. They, along with Garhauer, really stand behind their equipment. Hope this helps.

Tom,

Yes, i do have the one that is in the center of the wheel axle.
I will remove wheel again, and see if that clip is missing.
thanks

Blair,
You may have to remove the compass to see if the C-clip is missing or out of place. There may be several of them on the shaft/axle.

[QUOTE=LCBrandt;9363]Removing and reinstalling the steering wheel is a slam dunk. Easy. I just had it off today doing some maintenance in the engine pod. I set the wheel against the lifelines/stern pulpit and either tie it in place with some light line, or as today I used a short bungie to hold it in place.

Just keep in mind that you need the rudder centered to ensure that the key slot is on the top side of the wheel axle, otherwise the key could fall out of the slot. I set the wheel friction whenever removing the wheel, for the same reason.[/QUOTE]

I also enjoy removing the wheel when at dock or at anchor - BUT; When at anchor I [B]always[/B] put on the wheel before turning in at night as a safety precaution (Who wants to wakeup in an emergency, in the dark and try and put on a wheel?)
PLUS, I have an extra Edson nut and keystock; for obvious reasons...

Related question...what do you use to unscrew the wheel nut? We had a "tuning fork" shaped piece of laminate that was labelled for this use, however it does not work anymore..the opening has been worn down enough that it won't grab the nut. I tried a channel lock plier, but it will leave marks on the SS nut. I ended up covering the jaws with duct tape, but this didn't work too well, either ...any suggestions?

Remove the compass? Dang, that sounds like a lot of work. If the clip is on the inside of the pedestal, then it sounds like it isn't anything I did stupid.
Will it hurt anything if I just use the boat without the friction lock for awhile?

I used a Cresent wrench to remove the wheel.

Blair, removing the compass is easy, just turn it. Be careful about the night-light wiring.

[QUOTE=jenweber33;14901]Related question...what do you use to unscrew the wheel nut? We had a "tuning fork" shaped piece of laminate that was labelled for this use, however it does not work anymore..the opening has been worn down enough that it won't grab the nut. I tried a channel lock plier, but it will leave marks on the SS nut. I ended up covering the jaws with duct tape, but this didn't work too well, either ...any suggestions?[/QUOTE]

Mine is easy to remove as it is only hand tight. I haven't had any problems with it coming loose from vibrations - your mileage may vary...

Bought a new belt for my Autohelm ST4000. I need to remove the wheel of course to get the autopilot off.

Unscrewed the big wheel nut, and it came off very easily. But big shock, the wheel seems to be frozen to the axle. Made a makeshift "gear puller" out of a prop puller, but even with intense pressure the wheel didn't budge off that axle.

Been soaking and tapping with PB Blaster all day, but still won't budge. There's no sign of corrosion. Started to think I was doing something wrong, but as best I can tell, the wheel should slide right off the axle (like every other boat I've owned). Key seems to be in its slot from what I can tell peering into the keyhole.

Next step is to borrow an actual gear puller and put a few tons of pressure on it.

Has anyone run into this issue?

Robert Newton
1985 C36 #369

Heynewt... I had the same problem the first time I took of my wheel.... had to keep putting blaster on it and tapping from the back. A prop puller might work but whatever you do be careful not to damage the threads.

Blair... I have the wheel auto helm and I find I have to secure the inner ring with wire-ties when I take it off. Hence I don't remove it except during the winter.

Randy... is anyone wearing it when you fix your wheel to the "bikini"? Sounds like it would be uncomfortable to be dragging the wheel around.

I keep a 3 arm gear puller on board to remove mine. The wheel axle is well greased, but still very difficult to get off.

Ahh, ok, good to know. I can't believe how hard this was to get off. I've pulled flywheels off rusted motors that took less effort. Greased it up really well when I put it back on.