Try this and if it does not work I have saved it as a pdf and will email to you
Gary
[url]https://flir.box.com/s/nwf2s5ha9xrltggghogu/1/720705051[/url]

Duane. Do you have the older style black wheel unit? I don't have the manual here at home, and I don't think it contains those instructions anyway. I had to replace the belt on a black drive. As I recall, the belt kit came with a plastic tool to separate, the front and back rings. Picture a piece of 3/4" aluminum bent to a 90 degree angle at the end. You put it between the 2 rings and pry them apart. There are several wheels (5?) that are attached to the stationary ring, and ride in a shallow groove in the rotating ring (which attaches to the wheel). Once apart, the drive belt is visible and can be replaced fairly easily.

This is from memory of doing it at least 5 years ago before I replaced the 4000 with an S1 with the grey drive. Same procedure for on the grey drive I believe.

I actually was just about to edit my post from last night; the grey drive is indeed different..!!! The front ring (the one that attaches to the wheel) snaps onto an internal ring that stays on the stationary ring. You remove it by grabbing the front ring evenly along one edge and prying it off. I seem to recall doing it without tools. It does flex quite a bit in the process. I didn't have to replace the belt yet, but I remember having to disassemble it a couple times when I first installed it. Again, this was 5 or more years ago, so my feeble memory may be suspect.

I too intend to install a below decks pilot, and can't fit into the lazarette to do it. So I guess I'll have to pay to get it done, something I hate to do. My marina operator works with a couple independent contractors, one of which installed my diesel heater and did a good job, so I'd start with him, then contact the dealer, who also has a good service department and would be very familiar with the boat.

Parts of the job that requires entry to the lazarette are (a) installing linear actuator, (b) drilling rudder post and installing tiller arm, (c) routing wiring. Maybe you can pay for these items only and save money while maintaining control over the installation.

Duane,

The belt on my MKII broke a couple of months ago. It took me about 5 minutes to take the unit apart. Then another 10 minutes to reinstall the new belt and put it back together. Another 5 minutes to mount the unit back on the wheel and I was ready to sea trial. The process did not involve any special tools. Just in case I took photos of the process to make sure I reinstalled everything correctly. (unfortunately I deleted the photos a couple of weeks ago.)

I ordered an extra belt to keep on board as a spare. After the belt broke I did not realize how much I used the autohelm... Imagine having to steer manually by hand the whole time you are out sailing.

Note: Make sure you order the yellow belt. The older MKI belt will not fit on the MKII unit. There is also an info/installation manual that comes with the belt.

Duane,
Look at the top file in the list ST4000 back end of manual has info, not sure if it is what you want.
Gary
[url]https://flir.box.com/s/nwf2s5ha9xrltggghogu/1/720705051[/url]

This will get the cover off I think?

We recommend that you complete the following steps each season to
prevent the build-up of salt on the wheel drive bearings and drive belt:
1. Remove the wheel drive from the wheel:
• remove the wheel from the pedestal
• remove the spoke clamp screws
• remove the wheel drive front cover
2. Check inside the drive unit for any signs of damage.
3. Thoroughly flush the wheel drive interior with fresh water to
remove any salt build-up on the bearings and drive belt.
Do not lubricate any part of the wheel drive. It is designed to
run without lubrication.
4. Replace the front cover then fit wheel drive back onto the wheel.
5. Fit the wheel and wheel drive back onto the pedestal.
6. Clean the wheel drive case (using mild detergent if necessary),
then flush thoroughly with fresh water.

[QUOTE=LCBrandt;16923]Parts of the job that requires entry to the lazarette are (a) installing linear actuator, (b) drilling rudder post and installing tiller arm, (c) routing wiring. Maybe you can pay for these items only and save money while maintaining control over the installation.[/QUOTE]

Larry, that's what I plan to do when/if I get this done. I still need to try your suggestion of removing the trim around the lazarette access door and see if I can fit in.

Taking the wood frame off the access hole to the lazarette is easy to do...just four screws. But the real trick that makes this access hole useful once the frame is removed is to split a piece of PVC (or maybe even a piece of white plastic sewage hose??) and slide it over the bottom edge of the opening. You will not be able to put your body weight on the sharp edge if you skip this trick.

Larry. Since you've had your trim off, you may be able to answer this.

Do you think that the opening could be expanded a little, like maybe 1/2" to an 1" on each side? That might make all the difference. I need to be able to get better access to finish installing the rudder sensor according to your procedure; great idea that one..! I figure that I'd continue to use that even if I eventually switch to a below decks pilot.

Gary, I had my head through that hole just three days ago as I was implementing a New Idea that I'm going to write up for C36IA: a sight gauge for the translucent fuel tank on the Mk II.

As to enlarging the size of the hole??? No, I don't think that any appreciable additional width can be gained, at least if the hole remains rectangular. The limits horizontally are Inboard: the cover over the steering gear; and Outboard: the angular shape of the interior liner at that point. Have you had the frame off? The hole is considerably larger than it seems once the frame is removed.

And Gary, I wonder if by turning the steering to a full left rudder stop you might be able to access the quadrant from the aft cabin, avoiding the lazarette entirely, for the two small holes you need to drill for the rudder position sensor arm attach point?