I am the third owner of a 1985 C36, Mark I. The bottom was stripped and barrier-coated by the previous owner and there are no issues with the bottom. There is past blistering in the waterline stripe (they were opened and sealed, but not filled) and pox in the gelcoat up to one foot above the waterline the first five feet from the bow (port and stbd) and about seven feet from the stern (port and stbd). I plan to peel the gelcoat in the affected areas, plus a margin of safety and refinish. The dizzying number of internet articles about blister repair has me confused. I am thinking I should first seal the dried-out laminate with West System epoxy then spray either polyester gel coat or vinyl ester gelcoat. I have read some articles indicating there can be adhesion problems between gel coat and epoxy, while others indicate that good preparation eliminates that problem (allowing sufficient cure time for the epoxy, scrubbing the amine blush with water, sanding the epoxy before applying gelcoat). I would go with the gel coat offered by Catalina Direct, but only if I get a decent enough match to not have to spray the entire topsides. Otherwise, I would lean in the direction of using a vinyl ester gelcoat for the whole topsides.
Has anybody here done this project themselves (or had it done)? If so, what method was used?
By the way, I corresponded with Frank Butler about this, sent him photos, etc. He said the boat was way out of warranty (which is true) he said to just sand the blisters flat and fill them. This doesn't sound like a permanent cure to me.
Weird. I have not heard of blisters above the waterline.i suspect the PO had water in the laminate and it migrated in the layers of glass after the barrier coat was applied (likely without doing a peel or allowing the hull to dry adequately). Best cure is open it up and allow to dry first. I doubt the source was above the waterline so a barrier above wouldn't have much effect.
gel coat over epoxy is not good. You have to use an amine free hardener like System Three Surfboard Resin. I have had good success with this but it is much to expensive for the whole hull. Why not just stick with vinyl ester or polyester above the waterline. Below the waterline use an epoxy barrier and bottom paint.
Brent and Janie Farler
"Salsa Caliente"
1987 Catalina 36 Hull #719
Lake Texoma, TX
Just a thought about blisters above the waterline, I had a friend who picked up a Catalina 25 and it had a series of what looked like a "POX" as described in this string. We kind of think we figured what caused the "POX" in this area of the boat. I have since noticed it on other boats. I'm thinking it comes from boats that have been shrink wrapped and caused by the heat being applied along the bottom of the covering. I believe the people covering boats with this process save on the plastic by tightening the cover above the waterline and I know I saw a video once that claimed care should be used when applying heat and that you do not apply the heat to the boat....
Gary Bain
S/V "Gone With The Wind"
Catalina 36', Hull #: 1056, Year: 1990, Engine: M-35
Standard Rig
Moored: Boothbay Harbor, Maine
Home: Auburn, Maine
Pox above the waterline is almost always caused by moisture trapped by covers or unskilled shrink wrappers heating the hull too rapidly. Any trapped moisture blows out the pox. These are not serious just cosmetic... Don't let your shrink wrapper:
A) Shrink tight to the hull. This traps moisture under the cover.
B) Blast the shrink gun with no spacer / heat shield between the cover and the hull. Many guys simply get lazy and tuck the cover around the filament line and let the hull hold it in place. They then hit the plastic with a very, very hot gun to glue the two pieces of shrink around the filament line. This is what can pop any trapped moisture into pox..
-Maine Sail
https://www.marinehowto.com/