Polycarbonate Dodger Windows Question

10 posts / 0 new
Last post
JAS's picture
JAS
Offline
Joined: 12/16/12
Posts: 258
Polycarbonate Dodger Windows Question

Hello All,

I am putting a new dodger on the boat, and my canvas guy convinced me to go with the hard, polycarbonate windows because he says they are crystal clear, and remain so a lot longer than soft window material.  However, he asked me a question that has kind of been bothering me about whether the traveler zippers on the hard windows need to travel up as high as the zippers on my soft windows.  I told him yes, the zipper needs to go to the same height because I need to pull the traveler sheet up and out of the clamcleat to adjust the traveler.  Is there something about hard windows that I need to know about that would make my canvas guy feel compelled to ask such a question?  Do they have a tendency to crack or tear or break or ??? if zippers go too high in the middle of a window where the traveler line goes?

Also, any feedback on hard/polycarbonate windows would be most appreciated while I still have time to change my mind.  One thing that I am having a hard time imagining is that these windows fold back and bungee to the underside of the dodger when opened, rather than rolling up as my soft window does.  Does anybody have any experience with this setup?  Does it work ok?

Thanks a bunch--JAS

Joel Schwartz
s/v Get-A-Grip
1993 Catalina 36 Hull #1259
Newport Beach, California

Feyerhw
Offline
Joined: 5/14/12
Posts: 2

We replaced our dodger three years ago and went with the polycarbonate Windows.  They remain clear, we love them.  Not sure about your zipper configuration, but we haven't had any problems with the traveler.  Our lines go through the canvas below the window.  We also have the 'fold back' option, but find we use it very little since the windows are so clear. (And our temp isn't quite as warm as your area).
 

Bill Feyerherm
"Imagine" 1990 C36 # 1102
Friday Harbor, WA

TomSoko's picture
TomSoko
Offline
Joined: 2/15/07
Posts: 978

Joel,
Rather than keeping the zipper for adjusting the traveler, you might want to give a call to Guido or Mark at Garhauer.  They have several ways to route your traveler lines down to the cabintop, under the dodger (instead of thru it), and then to a cam cleat. Better and easier.  Hope this helps.

Tom Sokoloski
C36/375IA Past Commodore
Noank, CT

JAS's picture
JAS
Offline
Joined: 12/16/12
Posts: 258

I called Guido and bought the kit...thanks for the tip!

Joel Schwartz
s/v Get-A-Grip
1993 Catalina 36 Hull #1259
Newport Beach, California

JAS's picture
JAS
Offline
Joined: 12/16/12
Posts: 258

I called Guido and bought the kit...thanks for the tip!

Joel Schwartz
s/v Get-A-Grip
1993 Catalina 36 Hull #1259
Newport Beach, California

William Miller
Offline
Joined: 10/4/08
Posts: 294

I just finished doing what Tom talkes about. My friend did this on his 30 catalina and it works perfect. Just rerun your line so it leads forward and put a sheve about 18 in forward of the traveler and rout the line under the dodger. I moved the cam cleat on either side of the hatchway on the top. Much easier to adjust and you do not have to go all the way up to the dodger

Bill Miller
S/V Lorraine
Pacific Northwest,Sound Sound
Grapeview,Wa
1990 Mk1

JAS's picture
JAS
Offline
Joined: 12/16/12
Posts: 258

Thanks for the replies everybody:

You guys wouldn't by any chance have a picture of what you are talking about regarding rerouting of the traveler lines would you?  For some reason I am having a hard time imagining precisely what you are talking about.
 

Joel Schwartz
s/v Get-A-Grip
1993 Catalina 36 Hull #1259
Newport Beach, California

Chachere's picture
Chachere
Offline
Joined: 10/27/10
Posts: 825

Joel -Take a look at this comment I posted last year and the photos therein:
https://www.catalina36.org/comment/55992#comment-55992
which was part of a longer thread:
https://www.catalina36.org/forum/technical-discussion/revamping-control-...
(credit where due:  Much of this redesign was inspired by Tom Soko's earlier writeup)
- Matthew

Matthew Chachère
s/v ¡Que Chévere!
(Formerly 1985 C36 MKI #466 tall rig fin keel M25)
2006 Catalina Morgan 440 #30.
Homeported in eastern Long Island, NY

pkeyser's picture
pkeyser
Offline
Joined: 5/18/13
Posts: 659

There are several grades of polycarbonate sheet. I would recommend the grade with a UV inhibitor to protect against sunlight damage ,and a mar resistant hard coating (silicone) to give it some abrasion resistance to salt crystals and other things. Use fresh water to clean it with a small amount of Dove (or similar) dish detergent. Keep chemicals away unless they specifically say that they are safe to use on polycarbonate. For being a bullet resistant plastic, it's achilles heel is exposure to chemicals.  The hard coat helps in that respect too. Polycarbonate  (ie Lexan) is a great product. I used to be a design engineer for the company produced it- General Electric  Plastics Div.

Paul & Wendy Keyser
"First Light"
Rye NH
2005 C36 MKII #2257
Wing, M35B

JAS's picture
JAS
Offline
Joined: 12/16/12
Posts: 258

Got the windows with UV inhibitor...thanks for the advice!

Joel Schwartz
s/v Get-A-Grip
1993 Catalina 36 Hull #1259
Newport Beach, California

Log in or register to post comments