I don't know why I'm so gun shy on all this stuff- I built an entire new house doing all the electrical, plumbing, GC work myself, but for some reason, I am gun shy on almost every decision, part, and technique on our new to us boat. Maybe because its made of fiberglass that I am not familiar working around AND it takes me into water 1000 feet deep. I guess I don't want to "harm" the integrity of the hull with strong cleaners like break cleaner or acetone or oil based paint that will "dissolve" or soften the hull. Heck if this was the house, I would just mess with whatever until it works.
After exploring some of the dirty undersides and bilge areas, I decided to just pull all the fresh water hoses and redo everything new. After I clean all the areas with (haven't figured that out yet) and paint every nook and cranny I can reach with - Interlux white bilge paint? (I don't want to go the tan gelcoat route that Catalina suggested), where is a good place to buy some of the plastic plumbing fittings I need? Can I just use ones found at Lowes? Again if this were my new house, I wouldn't worry about sinking- but everything attached to a thru hull, makes me squeamish. I keep every thru-hull closed when I'm not on board.
Thanks for your thoughts
Tad Davis
Simpler Times
1989 C-36 MK I #1004
Redondo Beach, Calif.
Tad-
The C36 fresh water system basically uses non exotic, Home Depot/Ace Hardware type reinforced vinyl plumbing hoses, single hose clamps, and, pvc connections. I've also found some copper pipe on our boat- small lengths- to connect fresh water hoses.
Thru-hull plumbing is another story; reinforced rubber hoses, Marlon UV resistant plastic thru hulls and valves, bronze valves, double hose clamps etc.
If something breaks on the fresh water side, the boat still floats.If something fails on the seawater side, it may not stay afloat.
For the hull liner/bilge area- diluted bleach is generally not a problem. Acetone is generally not a problem because the solvent evaporates so quickly. Detergents are generally ok. Most solvents should be avoided or used very sparingly, especially around plumbing and rubber. For example, if BP Plaster is sprayed on the engine or transmission seals, it will eat through them. Long term, concentrated exposure of fiberglass to the current formulations of ethanol and gasoline is not good. "On-Off" is an acid based hull coat cleaner- works great to remove algae and rust stains from the outside hull when used as instructed, but let it sit with full concentration, it will etch the gel coat. I wouldn't use it in the bilge as its vapors would corrode electrical wiring and other metals.
Marine Supply houses are good sources of information as well as local old salts.
Bottom line- if your not sure about a cleaning chemical suitability, don't use it.
Paul & Wendy Keyser
"First Light"
Rye NH
2005 C36 MKII #2257
Wing, M35B
Great question, Tad.
Like they say on all cleaning products, "try on a hidden sample first". The interior of fiberglass will not change if you put a solvent on the surface (hidden flaws). Try your proposed products out on a piece of fiberglass above the waterline in some locker. It's pretty tough stuff, so I'll bet you won't find something to damage it. Polyethylene bottles are much more sensitive to nonpolar solvents, so if it came in a plastic bottle, it's probably safe. That's not to say that acids , like on and off, won't etch it so read the directions. Epoxy is wonderful stuff, and almost indestructible. Your hull has 3/4 inch of the stuff. Catalina's are built tough.
Btw, if you are unfamiliar with fiberglass work, you may want to also read on sailboatowners.com for a more active board. Not knocking this board, just multiple sources of info.
John Parsons
"Water Music" 1999 Catalina 36 Mk II - Hull 1771
Tall Rig, Fin Keel
Bay City, MI, USA