My M25 had a short, apparently 304 Stainless Steel, pipe that was threaded into the NPT port that the low oil pressure alarm switch normally threads in to (port side of engine, towards the rear, under the exhaust manifold). The pipe fatigued due to engine vibration and snapped off almost flush with the engine block (see attached photo). I tried to remove the threaded stub with an easy out (didn’t know about pipe extractors at the time) which wound up breaking off jammed in the pipe stub, again almost flush with the pipe stub and engine block. Does anyone have any suggestions for removing the extractor and pipe stub at this point?
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Michael & Jayne O'Neill * Steadfast * 1985 C36 #372 * Salem, MA
Michael
Now that the easy out is broken, that is a huge problem. I never have had any luck drilling one out. Maybe using a pin punch, you might be able to back out the broken easy out piece.
If it's a 4 flute type, you might try jamming two pin punches in and unscrewing the broken piece. If it's a
tapered type, try to tap it clockwise.
There are several methods you could use if the engine was removed. If you goggle broken easy out you might get some ideas. Sorry I couldn't be more help.
Chuck
Chuck Lennox
97 MKii Ventura Ca
Island Girl Hull #1611
There are two locations for the oil switch - behind the alternator, and just forward of the heat exchanger. The latter location - would be "easy" as the oil manifold can be removed with just a few bolts. If it is a non-twisted easyout you might be able to get a small carbide milling bit in there and remove metal around the flute, and "tap" it into the grove - otherwise I don't have any good recommendations -- I just finished drilling and tapping two broken studs for the alternator bracket upgrade, I was sweating bullets when the tap got "stuck" while removing it. It all worked out, but your in a position no one wants - I feel for you. If you do use a carbide burr in there be sure and pack as much grease in the hole first to capture the metal shavings.
Les
Les & Trish Troyer
Mahalo
Everett, WA
1983 C-36 Hull #0094
C-36 MK 1 Technical Editor.
Commodore
Les & Chuck
Thanks for the replies. The easy out is the tapered type, so unlike a tap there are no good flutes to catch with a pin punch. Some machinist sites suggest using techniques such as EDM, using a small diamond burr to carefully grind the extractor out of the pipe stub, or using a carbide drill. My main concern would be keeping the contaminates from any drilling, grinding or EDM work from getting in to the engine oil circuit. Putting grease in the hole to capture the contaminants sounds like it could work. Alternatively, or perhaps together with the grease idea, filling the whole engine with oil up to the valve cover would create an internal head of pressure and cause oil to flow out of the hole, carrying any grinding/drilling debris with it. It may just be necessary to bite the bullet and pull the engine rather than risk metal bits getting in and causing a catastrophic failure on the water. Still have some time to weigh alternatives before the cover comes off in the spring!
Michael & Jayne O'Neill * Steadfast * 1985 C36 #372 * Salem, MA
I was going to suggest EDM - but that typically requires you to pull the engine and get it down to a bare block (last time I checked which is many years ago). Most of us would stuff a Beta in at that point. One other option is to grind down a bit and weld/braze a patch over it -- then put the oil switch back on the oil manifold. Not a pretty fix but a bunch cheaper than the Beta.
Les
Les & Trish Troyer
Mahalo
Everett, WA
1983 C-36 Hull #0094
C-36 MK 1 Technical Editor.
Commodore