I figure this is important to share, and after a little online research, I'm not the only Catalina this has happened to.
The ignition button on my panel only popped back out only 3/4 of the way. Instead of being a starter, when the engine was running the starter became an electrical generator, and was dumping all of the power into the solenoid and starter.
THIS CANNOT BE HEARD OR SMELLED FROM THE COCKPIT!
Thank god my wife was below and said "what's that weird noise?". I went down to listen, and by then the noise had gone (The noise was my starter motor frying) but I caught a whiff of something (I had just added oil, I figured I spilled a little) so I popped the engine cover off. Smoke was flowing from beneath the solenoid, so my wife sprang up to the cockpit like a ninja and shut the motor down.
The heavy gauge cable from the solenoid to the starter had melted, the sheathing had turned crispy and wrapped itself around the nut. I had to wait over a half hour for the unit to be cool enough to inspect.
Just thought I'd post this, so this can be in the back of your heads as you go through your starting procedures. The button popped out just like it always had, I didn't even think to look to see if it popped out entirely. A very easy thing to miss, especially if it's something you've never heard about.
On a side note, does anyone know where I can get a new non-sticking ignition button?
Here's and article from another case in SF bay, where the USCG had to get involved, and there was an actual fire. Thank god I was sitting safely in my slip. http://www.sailfeed.com/2017/01/electrical-fire-and-some-lessons-learned-about-starters/
Hummina
1987 Catalina 36 MKI
#741
Bayfield, WI. Usually.
No such thing as a non-sticky push button switch. You can protect yourself in the following ways:
A 12v alarm connected to lead of the start switch that goes to the solenoid. When the alarm is on, the switch is energizing the relay. Now, it's possible that the solenoid stays engaged even when the start switch is not supplying power to the solenoid because a solenoid is really a push button switch where your finger is replaced by a electromagnet. This type of failure is quite rare though. Keep in mind you gotta have a plan for what happens if the alarm continues to sound after release. Is there an easy way to remove battery power from the starter?
In addition to the 12v alarm, consider adding a manual high-current switch in series with the battery lead to the solenoid. Now you have the means to rapidly remove power to the starter if either the alarm sounds or you hear/smell something going on. Helps with working around the engine too as many of us have inadvertently caused scary stuff when working near the starter with metal tools.
The ultimate would be an alarm that senses current flow in the battery lead to the solenoid, sounding an alarm for the duration of the current flow. About $20 worth of parts for a geek to assemble something (a coil of wire, a CMOS 741 op amp, a few resistors, a transistor, and a buzzer). Maybe in my spare time.....
Nick Caballero
Retired C36/375IA Mk II Technical Editor
instead of all the fancy breadboarding - how about something like this relay https://www.amazon.com/Timer-Delay-Relay-Hours-Cycling/dp/B00PD65UGA - you could wire it up as a time delay on - so if there is voltage to the starter for say 15 seconds - it would timeout and output to an alarm. Alternatively you could use it as a time delay off and wire it inline with the starter button - with the output going to the starter solenoid and power comming from the start button, when the button is pushed it would deliver power for up to the specified time then turn off. Both methods have advantages/drawbacks, but $24 and you don't need a EE to design it.
Les
Les & Trish Troyer
Mahalo
Everett, WA
1983 C-36 Hull #0094
C-36 MK 1 Technical Editor.
Commodore
In some starters, the load side of the solenoid is imbedded into the starter and all you have access to is the hot terminal. Since there is always B+ there (unless you have a switch) an alarm placed on the hot terminal would sound regardless of the start switch position. I don't recall how the starters in Universal/Westerbeke engines are. If you have access to the load terminal, then this is an ideal place to attach a simple alarm and be able to detect both fault conditions, i.e., stuck switch and a stuck solenoid. If you don't have access to the load terminal, then sensing on the B+ wire is the only option to detect both fault conditions.
You could attach a time delay to any of these ideas. The only caveat is that under normal starting condition how do you know if the alarm system is working? A seasonable test by pulling the kill lever and having an excessive cranking time might suffice, but perhaps better to have an alarm that sounds during all cranking vs. one that is inoperative and you don't know it. One of Murphy's Laws I believe.....
For 99% of folks, the KISS principle is best and just detect the most common failure - a stuck push button. Perhaps just wire a buzzer to the start switch and learn to love it. Like adding an overtemp alarm to engines that don't have it, adding a start buzzer is something I highly recommend. $3 and a 1 hour job on an MKII - no holes to drill. Just glue a 12v buzzer to the inside the navpod and wire it to the load side of the start button. http://www.jameco.com/z/7P3120LF-LA-Buzzer-Piezo-3200Hz-90Db-Black-3-15V...
Nick Caballero
Retired C36/375IA Mk II Technical Editor
The first generation M25 panels had the start on the key second position and glow plugs on a momentary toggle. I was thinking of rewriting the panel to the current method but now thinking twice as both the starter an plugs are positive feedback on their position.
Thanks for the info
Les
Les & Trish Troyer
Mahalo
Everett, WA
1983 C-36 Hull #0094
C-36 MK 1 Technical Editor.
Commodore
The same thing happened to my Mk II over a decade ago. Fried the starter motor. I believed than (and still do) that the culprit was the rubber cover on the starter button that the 2002-year boats came with. I think the rubber cover invites corrosion in the switch, and then any corrosion is hidden. I replaced the starter button with a generic button from West Marine, but I left the cover OFF. I figured the gentle rains of the Pacific Northwest would not be a corrosion source, and so far that button has served well for many years.
Larry Brandt
S/V High Flight #2109
Pacific Northwest, PDX-based
2002 C-36 mkII SR/FK M35B
Thanks for sharing this story? What did you end up doing? While I did not have this specific problem I have upgraded all the wiring on my boat last season and changed out the push button starter for a 4 position turn key instead. This is similar to what used to be in cars...turn the key until the motor starts. It was simple to wire up. Position 1 back or Position 1 forward turn for accessories (blower fan) 2 turn for power to fuel pump and gauges 3 turn and hold turns stater and fires up engine.