I replaced my Sherwood water pump with an Oberdorfer.
Everything was running fine. The temp. gauge remained in the 160 degree range for long periods of time. I could shut the engine off, and restart it (whereas I couldn't before because the temp. gauge would peg at the max temperature, and while it wouldn't set off any audible alarms, it would trip the fuse with the red button on lower starboard side of the engine, so that my engine would not restart without resetting the red fuse button each time).
I know my original water pump went out because when all this started happening, no water was coming out the exhaust; whereas once I replaced the pump, water came out of the exhaust again.
Unfortunately, my temperature gauge has gone back to pegging at maximum temperature after running my motor for a short time. This in turn is once again tripping my fuse with the red button on the engine, forcing me to push the button each time I want to start/restart my engine.
HOWEVER, THIS TIME THE TEMPERATURE GAUGE IS PEGGING AT MAXIMUM TEMPERATURE WITH WATER SHOOTING OUT THE EXHAUST (the way it is supposed to).
Is there something I'm missing here? Could it be the temperature sender on my themostat? I replaced it a mere three years or so ago. Is there some other temperature sender besides the one on my thermostat that may be contributing to this problem? Could it be the thermostat itself? Could the overheating/high heat that resulted from my busted water pump have damaged by temp. sender, or something else that is somehow connected to my temp. sender and my red-buttoned engine fuse?
Is there any procedure I should follow to troubleshoot this mess?
I was so looking forward to taking the boat out last weekend! I didn't even clear my marina before realizing I had to turn back...WHAT A BUUMMMMMEERRRR...
Joel Schwartz
s/v Get-A-Grip
1993 Catalina 36 Hull #1259
Newport Beach, California
Joel,
Get a laser temp gage and confirm the real temp.
Then you can go from there.
Bill Matley
Duncan Bay Boat Club
Cheboygan, Michigan
Lakes Huron, Michigan,
Canadian North Channel
"Spirit of Aloha" Hull #1252
Joel
I agree with Bill.
Step 1. Is the engine really hot. Thermal guns are cheap and easy. Just aim it at the Thermostat housing.
Step 2. Why is the CB tripping? I don't think even if the engine is Hot, the CB shouldn't trip. It sounds like you have a short somewhere. Let say your engine really is hot. If the hot light circuit has short this would trip the CB when the engine get hot.
Again perform step 1 first.
Good luck.
Chuck Lennox
97 MKii Ventura Ca
Island Girl Hull #1611
When you say "Why is the CB tripping", I'm assuming you mean the little red reset button on the starboard side of my engine. I just assumed that my pegged temperature gauge was causing it as everytime I noticed the temp. gauge was pegged at the maximum, my tach gauge, alternator gauge would all stop working as well (frozen in place). Then, if I shut off my engine, the alarm stops working, and pushing the start button does nothing, until I go down and push that red button. Then the pre-start alarm starts working again, and it starts up...and it will keep running, but the temp. gauge will once again be pegged at the highest temp., all my engine panel instruments once again get frozen in place, and I once again cannot start my engine (if I turn it off) until I go down and push the red button again. I just assumed this was all caused by the temp. gauge reading in some way. Could it be a faulty temp. gauge shorting everything out?
Joel Schwartz
s/v Get-A-Grip
1993 Catalina 36 Hull #1259
Newport Beach, California
I just recently picked up a digital laser infrared thermometer. I'm assuming that is pretty much the same thing you are talking about. I'll give it a try when I get back to the boat.
Thanks for your reply--JS
Joel Schwartz
s/v Get-A-Grip
1993 Catalina 36 Hull #1259
Newport Beach, California
Joel,
As you didn’t mention the buzzer sounding it sounds like your temperature sender unit might be bad. Have you checked the resistance of the sender? And to answer your question if it could be the sender again. Yes – I was replacing the one on my chevy every year until I got that one that made it past the QA departure at the factory and is still going.
Bob Wilson
S/V Morning Breeze
2003 Catalina 36, Hull 2122
York River Yacht Club
Williamsburg, VA
The pre-start buzzer works when it's cold. Once started, the temp. gauge reads maximum temperature in fairly short order (I have never witnessed the moment when it happens, so I'm not sure exactly how long it takes), and then all my gauges freeze in place. If I turn my engine off, the buzzer that normally sounds no longer works and I cannot restart the engine until I go down below and reset that red button on the starboard side of my m35. Then the alarm will sound again, the gauges work, but only just long enough to restart the engine, at which time the temp. gauge pegs at the maximum temp., all the other gauges get frozen in place again, and the buzzer once again stops working...until I press the red reset button on the engine again, thus starting the process all over again...
Joel Schwartz
s/v Get-A-Grip
1993 Catalina 36 Hull #1259
Newport Beach, California
That sounds like you have a short somewhere in the wiring. I would guess the temperature gauge would be a good place to start. You may want to discount the power to it and see if the problem persists.
Bob Wilson
S/V Morning Breeze
2003 Catalina 36, Hull 2122
York River Yacht Club
Williamsburg, VA
Joel
The red button is a circuit breaker.It's purpose is to protect the wiring between the battery and whatever is down stream from it.
I haven't looked at the schematics for this breaker but I'm sure that all your engine instruments are powered by this CB. The start circuit power runs thru it too. Maybe the fuel pump and glow plugs.
There are wiring schematics on the site.
The reason the gages freeze, is because they lost power.
Also Catalina direct has some good reading on how to test your engine instruments.
http://www.catalinadirect.com/index.cfm/category/493/instruments.cfm
If you don't already own one, your going to need a Volt/OHM meter. Doesn't really have to be a high dollar one. Just something to check for voltage and resistance.
Sounds to me like something is shorting straight to ground after the engine starts and runs for a while. Through the process of checking each circuit that is powered by that CB is the only way to solve your problem.
I think I would start by opening up the panel and look for any obvious problems. loose or burnt wires or connectors.
PM sent.
Chuck Lennox
97 MKii Ventura Ca
Island Girl Hull #1611
Thanks, I'll check it out this weekend. Btw, I've noticed that the sealant around my instrument panel isn't looking so hot. Perhaps that is the problem. Although, I wouldn't think it would matter all that much, as the instruments are contained in a box inside the overall frame that holds it all in place. That box should protect all the instruments and wires, no?
Joel Schwartz
s/v Get-A-Grip
1993 Catalina 36 Hull #1259
Newport Beach, California
Since the circuit breaker kicks after the engine warms up, it may indicate that the insulation of a wire is worn out and it makes contact with engine block causing a short. If so then the second time you run the engine it should kick the breaker sooner. Is it doing that?
If so then pull away wiring harnesses near the engine and try again.
Sail La Vie 1999 Catalina 36 MKII, M35B-17031, Coyote Point, San Mateo, CA
About Sail La Vie
It happens instantly once the engine is warmed up. Temp. gauge gets pegged to max. temp, and all other instruments freeze in place. If I shut the motor off, the alarm does not sound, and does not come on until I hit the red reset button on the lower starboard side of the engine. Then the alarm come back on, and I can restart, but the moment the engine starts the process starts all over again.
Joel Schwartz
s/v Get-A-Grip
1993 Catalina 36 Hull #1259
Newport Beach, California
Since the temperature gage spikes after the engine warms up I have my money on the gage is broken and is the heart of the problem.
Bob Wilson
S/V Morning Breeze
2003 Catalina 36, Hull 2122
York River Yacht Club
Williamsburg, VA
Agree- it sounds like an electrical issue, but might also be worth confirming there's no air pocket in the antifreeze side of the engine cooling system by burping the thermostat petcock. The engine temp spikes quickly when the antifreeze has an air pocket in the block and it stops circulating. Of course, it this were the problem, then you'd have to figure out how air got into the coolant system.
Paul & Wendy Keyser
"First Light"
Rye NH
2005 C36 MKII #2257
Wing, M35B
I will do this weekend as well. I have bleed through the petcock once before, but I had to replace it first because it was broken. I can't quite remember how it works, but I do remember it was pretty simple. I read somewhere on this site that some people just rev up the engine and completely wind it out for a spell and that that somehow gets rid of the airpockets in the cooling system. But I shudder to think what could happen if I did that. I baby my engine as she has about 4,000 hours on her now!
Joel Schwartz
s/v Get-A-Grip
1993 Catalina 36 Hull #1259
Newport Beach, California
One thing not stated above is Circuit Breakers have a fixed lifetime, the more they trip - the lower the trip amperage becomes. Measure the amps in "normal" operation - if what is expected, replace the breaker.
Les
Les & Trish Troyer
Mahalo
Everett, WA
1983 C-36 Hull #0094
C-36 MK 1 Technical Editor.
Commodore
I had not thought of that at all. Thanks for the tip!
Joel Schwartz
s/v Get-A-Grip
1993 Catalina 36 Hull #1259
Newport Beach, California
My red push to reset circuit breaker on lower starboard side of engine now trips without even turning my engine over. It has tripped so many times that I have decided to replace it no matter what is causing the problem. I went searching for prices and all prices were pretty high ($80-$130) until I ran into this after market version. Just wanted to get everybody's opinion re: quality, etc. before I buy.
http://www.marinepartssource.com/partdetails.asp?pnumber=BS2139&cat=1&ca...
Joel Schwartz
s/v Get-A-Grip
1993 Catalina 36 Hull #1259
Newport Beach, California
Electrically appears to be OK to use, it does not produce sparks that causes explosion. It is not clear how it is mounted. You may want to have its dimensions sent to you by the manufacturer.
Sail La Vie 1999 Catalina 36 MKII, M35B-17031, Coyote Point, San Mateo, CA
About Sail La Vie
Thanks, Haro. Btw, I recently received an email alert that I had a message from you, but when I signed in I couldn't open it.
Joel Schwartz
s/v Get-A-Grip
1993 Catalina 36 Hull #1259
Newport Beach, California
Joel, I looked through my Drupal Account messages list and I do not see that I have sent any message to you. It may be a notification of a new content rather than a message.
Sail La Vie 1999 Catalina 36 MKII, M35B-17031, Coyote Point, San Mateo, CA
About Sail La Vie