Glen

I have a similar problem although I have noticed a very small trickle of engine coolant under the heater. I have tightened both the engine coolant connections and I am keeping an eye on it.

If it continues to leak I will dismantle it which seems to be pretty easy but not sure how I would fix the aluminium tank if it is corroded. I would be surprised after only 5 years.

In my 2005 model I have the S600 model - this is a 6 gallon unit with the engine collant hoses connections at the rear rather trhan the front (F600).

Our experiences: [url]http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,3769.0.html[/url]

Other thing is to check the pressure relief valve.

I also discovered fresh water in the bilge from a mysterious source. The fact that it was warm was a pretty good clue to its origin! It turns out that the pressure relief valve on the hot water heater was faulty, and was releasing water before the water had been heated up. I replaced the valve with a new one from Seaward, and the problem was solved. I'd suggest activating the heater either by using shorepower (A/C) or by running the engine, and watching the heater to see if there are any visible leaks from hoses, connections or the pressure release valve.

--Nelson

Glenn,

I just changed my water heater out. Heater exchanger in the rear. It's not hard to do, but time consuming. Ordered from Defender, cheaper than WM. Just have a small bucket to catch the antifreeze upon disconect from the heater,and a correct sized PVC hose joiner to conect the two hoses from the engine. Otherwise you will have anitfreeze in the bilge.
By the way, thanks for putting our Fleet 11 picture in the Mainsheet.

Bill

Glenn:

I'd be very interested in hearing about your water heater replacement project when you are done. I hope you will post something for the benefit of the rest of us, who will be looking at this project, sooner or later (hopefully, later!).

--Nelson Lee

Nelson,
There is a great write-up in the Technical Section of the website. Ralph Johnson did it with lots of pix.

I had the honor and pleasure of replacing the factory seaward heater this spring on our '00 vintage boat. The symptoms were the same as Glenn's. I chose the SS model over galvanized version - also from Defender - replaced the engine heater hoses the year before and upgraded the hose clamps to the awab type.

The change out is very simple but as usual - a bit time consuming. As noted, have something to catch the antifreeze from the engine hoses and plug them with a rag. Obviously, the whole operation is done by removing the galley sink drawer unit and bravo to Catalina for NOT putting in the teak wood plugs over the screw heads. I can live with the functionality.

Glenn:

Congratulations on getting this job done. I have a couple of questions for you, if you have a minute.

1) in looking at the Seaward unit you pulled out, were you able to see the source of the leaking?

2) how does the footprint and general size of the new heater from Defender compare to the Seaward unit?

Thanks.

--Nelson Lee

Nelson,

The size and footprint of my new Seaward WH was basically, if not exactly, the same as the old one. As long as you get the same size the measurements are the same. As for where my heater was leaking, I had checked all the hoses and they were leak free, so I figured in mine it was the inside tank, and once getting it off just chunked it, not worrying where or why it was leaking. A 10 year old WH that's leaking needs replacing with no other explanation. My installation was just like Glenn's. Not hard to do, but hard on the skin of your hands. Lots of sharp edges around.

Bill

This summer I found a leak from a hose connection to a one-way valve inserted between the input to the water heater and the tee from fresh water feed. This connection was very short. I removed the one-way valve and eliminated the leak. Is there a down side to removing the one-way valve?
I also added an AC power switch at the nav station control panel. Apparently the MK IIs have them but I didn't on our MK I, #1339. I didn't want to worry about doing damage to a partially full water heater when charging the batteries while in winter storage or unnecessarily overburdening the output of a external gas generator with the water heater AC load.

You quesioned the role of the one-way valve in the input line to the heater. I recently had some problems with my potable water pump, which I was able to resolve (debris inside). I learned, however, that it is sometimes recommended to install a check valve in the line going into the water heater to prevent water flowing back into the pump as the water heats in the heater. (Mine is not plumbed this way, by the way.) This is to prevent cycling of the pump. Some newer pumps (like the bigger Shur Flo pumps) have internal check valves.

So I'd say that if your fresh water pump works fine, you probably are ok. But if you have shut off issues, or cycling, you might consider reinstalling the check valve.

--Nelson

[url]http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/WestAdvisorView?lang...

does anyone have any instructions for replacing the water heater on a 1998/36?
I guess I have to take the heat pump out. That seems like a big job! Has to be done!

Rich,
As was noted above, look in the Maintenance Section of the website. Ralph Johnson did a great write-up, complete with pictures.

Well,   My Hotwater Heater is leaking, os I'm looking to replace it.  Defender has a Kuuma that holds 11 Gallons. If it fits (it will be tight) is there any downside to this?

Greg;
We looked at installing an 11 gallon water heater on our Mark I and found the measurements a bit to close for comfort. I decided that the 11 gallon unit was about a fraction of an inch too high to fit on the exsisting mounting and I really didnt need 11 gallons of hot water anyway !
 If you decide on the six gallon unit, I used the Whale/Atwood type S-600 which is a direct replacement. Remove the draws under the sink to facilitate an easier installation and installed with new hoses. (The old hose may be difficult to remove)
Use a small 'L' bracket to secure the leading edge of heater as the heating unit mounting is just a bit larger than the exsisting plywood mount. Be sure the 110 volt  electric is off and tag the electric lines as you remove them from the old unit. About a three hour project.
Your mileage may vary..........