It's important with jib roller furling systems to keep some small amount of 'drag' on the furler line during deployment of the sail. This will allow the furler line to wrap properly on the drum, and then it will unroll easily when the sail is being reeled in.

Worst case scenario: deploying the jib in high winds with no 'drag' on the furler line. When the wind fills a small portion of the sailcloth the sail will almost instantly fully deploy, with a big sound 'BOOM!, leaving you with a rat's nest of tangled furler line on the drum. Of course, this happens in high winds, which means high seas, which means that someone has to lie on the foredeck in wet, rough conditions for a twenty- to thirty-minute puzzle untangling session. Don't ask me how I know about this.

(PS, Sam, would you consider clicking User CP, upper left corner of this page, and creating a automated signature that gives the model of your boat and other pertinent information so that we can better 'imagine' what vessel we're discussing? You can use my automated signature below as a model of what kind of information to display, the kind of info that will help us to help you. I know for your furling question this data my be somewhat irrelevant, but still it helps us to picture who we're trying to help. Thanks.)

My furler worked great during the sea trial, but after I shipped it 1000 miles I found it kept jamming. Turned out that in the dismasting / mast stepping sequence the final lead block got moved. I adjusted to have the lead block feed the line in just slightly above center of the spool and no more jamming.

An alternative solution, if the spool is getting full, is to remove the core of the line in the first 10 feet. The part of the line near the furler rarely receives any significant force and removing the first bit of core makes for a lot less bulk on the spool.

G. Jackson

Sam reading your post I presume you have a single line furler as what Lary mentions is for a double line furler system. All the 36s that I have seen with a single line system have a turning block mounted low off the bow sprit does yours have one?

Randy

If you are sure it is a lead issue and cannot reposition the forward block can you add a moveable block between the drum and the forward block. Attach it with a loop of line to the cleat when underway, remove from the cleat and slide out of the way when docking.

The removing the core is also a good idea, it was recommended by the manufacturer when I replaced my furler recently.

Sam, our 1999 model has a low furler drum and a pennant of 12 inches or so that raises the tack of the headsail. One rigger I used said he would have removed the pennant and moved the drum higher. A higher drum gives you a lot more freedom to adjust the furling line fairlead to the right angle.

I don't have a problem with my low drum, however, and I have removed the core from the first 20 feet of the furling line, in addition to going to a larger diameter for better handling.

Good luck solving your problem.

We changed our furler line last year, it was an 8 plait type and looked worn, put on double braid of the recommended size. We had no issues with the 8 plait, but now with the double braid it goes on unevenly and unless put on firmly when unfurling the sail it will start to hit the cage. Tried changing the height of the forward block and that just moves the jam up or down. For some reason the 8 plait was better, I'd change back but you rarely see that type of rope up here.

[QUOTE=bstreet;9549]... For some reason the 8 plait was better, I'd change back but you rarely see that type of rope up here.[/QUOTE]

Bud, that's what the Internet is for. ;)

[quote=deising;9550]Bud, that's what the Internet is for. ;)[/quote]

Yeah, you're right:o. Deliveries are a hassle right now though, prolly order some this winter and change back.

Bud,

You may want to look at Cajun rope Company [url]http://www.cajunrope.com/[/url] they are located in Nova Scotia and they have good prices on their cordage and shipping should be less of an hassle.

Great, Sam! We're glad you got it working and glad you reported your results.

Although it is now 2019, this 2011 post was helpful as I was having the same issue.  Turns out I'd caused much of it by repositioning the initial block on the pulpit higher up on the starboard side to allow the anchor locker lid to open unimpeded.  That change in angle seemed to have been the issue as once I moved it back down to near the deck (more perpendicular to the drum center?) where the locker lid still hits it, but just a little, the problem largely resolved itself.  I still TRY to apply pressure during the unfurling, but it sometimes doesn't happen when underhanded.  Still, far less scary trips to the foredeck in crashing seas...