This is on my wishlist as well. The Sail Ware House [url]www.thesailwarehouse.com[/url] has complete packages for $2665. It includes blocks, sheets, dousing sock and all. I believe the sails they sell are Rolly Trasker but, I am not sure.

I went with a North G2 in 2007. Came with Bag and sock and I elected to beef-up the luff of the sail since that area takes most of the wear. Their trade-in/trade-up promo brought them in line on price with everyone else. Highly recommend the sock.

As for rigging, I went with a "Tack Strap" configuration. I used the outboard gen tracks with swivell blocks. The blocks should really be a foot further aft but I did not want to put in pad eyes and backing plates.

Crusing Direct changed names to North Direct and they also offer "off the shelf" packages. [url]http://www.northsailsdirect.net/[/url]

I had North make the sail vs. the Cruising Direct route.

The sail is very easy to use with two people. I have been able to fly it solo in light air with a little help from autopilot.

If you need photos or other questions, you can send me an email.

[QUOTE=jmontani;1611]I went with a North G2 in 2007. Came with Bag and sock and I elected to beef-up the luff of the sail since that area takes most of the wear. Their trade-in/trade-up promo brought them in line on price with everyone else. Highly recommend the sock.

As for rigging, I went with a "Tack Strap" configuration. I used the outboard gen tracks with swivell blocks. The blocks should really be a foot further aft but I did not want to put in pad eyes and backing plates.

Crusing Direct changed names to North Direct and they also offer "off the shelf" packages. [url]http://www.northsailsdirect.net/[/url]

I had North make the sail vs. the Cruising Direct route.

The sail is very easy to use with two people. I have been able to fly it solo in light air with a little help from autopilot.

If you need photos or other questions, you can send me an email.[/QUOTE]

I also wanted to avoid adding padeyes and backing plates. I went to the local supply house (Fisheries Supply in Seattle) and picked up a couple of Garhauer blocks and took them to the North loft, where they added loops to the bails on the blocks. The loops are fabric and easily pass through the center of the aft cleats to give me a better sheeting angle for the chute. The blocks get stored in the spinnaker bag and are easy to rig.

I will get a picture and post it later this week.

My 1991 C36 came with a Ulmer Flasher in a Cutescoop that I've only flown once and while it worked fine, I wasn't entirely sure the rigging was adequate. First, I don't know where I should attach the snatch block for the tack line. I used the anchor bail the one time I flew the sail in very light air, but would prefer a more robust anchor point. I've thought of drilling the tang of the bowstem for a padeye where I could attach the snatch block, but dont know if there is a simpler approach that would be adequate.

Next, there are bullseyes for the tack line leading back to a camcleat on the starboard cabin side. I didn't think that was very robust, and could be difficult to release under tension. How are others securing the cockpit end of the tack line?

The boat has stand up blocks on tracks on the toerail for the sheets, which I think will be acceptable though blocks further back perhaps anchored via the aft cleats might be better.

I added strong padeyes to the top of the cheek blocks for the Genoa sheets, snap on some swivel blocks, and run the spin sheets to the primary winches. It has worked well.

I use an ATN tacker to attach the a-spin tack to the forestay. My spare Genoa halyard is long enough that I run it parallel to the furled headsail to a snatch block attached to a strong point at the anchor roller (not the bail at the end). I run the halyard back up to the tack and can adjust the luff easily without adding any new lines or blocks to the deck.

I don't get to use it often, but it is great when I do.

I used the pin just behind the stem fitting to attached the Tack Block. Since I use the Tack Strap on the sail, there really isn't much tack adjusting that I need to do. I typically leave the tack set just above the pulpit, in the lowest position to allow closer sailing angles.

I ran the tack line down from the strap, through the block, and straight to the bow cleat. Granted this may bring in an issue of chafe around the furling drum, but the tack strap is taking the majority of the load and I have about 500 feet of spare line in the dockbox. That being said I have not needed to replace the tack line.

I am certain that there is a better way to do this, but this has worked well for the light air use the sail primarily gets.

I added 3 photos, 1st is a diagram of the tack block rig, 2nd over all shot that shows sheeting positions (zoom in to see the tack strap), 3rd was a picture of block location furthest aft on the outboard track.

Good luck and I would love to see how other people rig the tack line.

Jack,
I use a set of Parell Beads (sp?) instead of an ATN Tacker to keep the tack of the A-chute close to the headstay. For a tack line, I run a line from the stbd side of the cockpit, thru two small blocks attached to the base of two stanchions (very slight change of direction, so there is very little load on the stanchion bases), forward to a stronger block attached to the stbd bow cleat, up to a block with a snap shackle attached to the tack of the sail (forward of the forestay), then down to the port side bow cleat. This arrangement allows the sail to be gybed forward of the forestay, all attachment points are very sturdy, and it provides a 2:1 purchase for the tack line. There have been some times where the extra purchase has been needed.

Thanks Tom. I also added an additional photo in my previous post that shows the sheet block location.

Pat,
I'm sorry to tell you that I made my set of them. I know they are available for purchase somewhere, but I can't remember where. I had a swaging tool, some SS wire and an old snap shackle at home, so I went to a hobby shop and bought some wooden balls (2" dia?). A few minutes on the drill press and a few swages later, and I owned a set of parrel beads. The admiral jokingly calls them my rosary beads.

Neil Pryde Sails sells them...$45 is what they post on the site.

[url]http://www.neilprydesails.com/store/beads.htm[/url]

Tom, Rosary beads sounds appropriate, when you are putting this lite a sail up you would be praying for wind.