Stephen,
I've heard of this before. It seems that the chain needs more than a 90 degree wrap in the chain wheel, and with the horizontal configuration you have, it just doesn't grab enough. The VW 500 mounted vertically doesn't have this problem because the chain wraps around the wheel for 180 degrees. One solution is to add a roller below the windlass:
[URL]http://catalina42discussionforum.yuku.com/topic/2302/maxwell-windlass[/URL]

I'm having the same problem with 1994 C36. I have a Maxwell 800, also mounted horizontally, which after reading the manual and studing the whole installation, I'm convenced that the horizontal mount is not as ideal way to use this windlass. (even though manual says its for verticle or horizontal mount) I've been using the "Foot on Chain" method also but sure don't like my body parts being that close. Both the raising a lowering process require frequent stops and adjustments in the chain feed by hand. Also there is no "Chain Stopper" on my unit. Which seems to me to be a safety issue and I'm checking into adding one but have no idea how.
So, I'm sympathetic but have no idea how to solve this issue.

Even with a brand new windlass it will do that unless you have at least 18" of drop below the chain wheel and that's hard to get with a lot of chain and rope. What I do is I kneel down and put my left hand below the windlass and as the chain comes off the windlass I throw it forward to keep the area under the windlass clear. That way I can stand up to bring the last of the chain in as the anchor comes up to the roller and not have it jump off the chain wheel. It is not a great setup for sure but I've got to the point where it works fairly well. Get a washdown pump too, don't know how I ever got by without one.

I have to agree with what Tom and Bud have to say. I had the Maxwell 500 on our boat and choose to upgrade to the Maxwell 1000. I knew going into the swap that the amount of chain contact with the windless and the amount of fall was going to be an issue. But I went ahead and installed it and glad I did. I like Bud do the the hand over hand which let's me have more contact with the capstan. We spent over 10 months on anchor last year and yes at times I did have the chain wrap around the drum and get caught. But I think one needs to understand how it works. In regards to the extra roller being added I made up a couple but found out that there is no room or enough drop for the chain. So a friend of ours on the 42 site got one. If I was to do it over again would I change anything. No. But the location of windless does need to be beefed up as in more glass which is a project on the list.
Randy

[quote=StephenVNoe;9763]Your technique is better that what I tried which caused overrides and risked my arm.

I just can't fathom how there can be so many Cat 36's there are out there with the horizontal windlass and all have this issue. Guess I'm naive, but I expected a factory setup to work much better than this does. Prev owner said he didn't use the windlass because of the problem, but this is not an option as far as I am concerned.

I have the washdown, thanks. Wouldn't be without one.

Which chain wheel is on your windlass, do you know?[/quote]

I put in a VW1000 and we have 5/16" G40 HT chain, the chain wheel I believe is part number 3173/105C. But the chain wheels are specific to each winch so that only works for the VW1000 I think.

I don't think the prev owners of our boat ever anchored out, there was a 22 lb danforth with 6 ft of 1/4" chain on it and 150 ft of 1/2 three strand, it didn't look like it had seen bottom much and none of that is beefy enough for our area. So that's likely why they never complained about it. I still have that windlass, the 500, it works fine if anyone wants it they can have it for the price of shipping, I tried to sell it but no takers. I have pictures of it if anyone is interested.

Hey Bud what if we do a 2 fer special. I have one in our basement taking up space and tried selling it as well. I will match what your doing. Who ever wants it is is theirs for shipping cost.
Randy.

Apparently a PO did me a big favor by replacing the original Maxwell with a Lofrans. :) It has none of the issues discussed in this thread. I know there was once a Maxwell from the literature about it still on the boat.

Tom Smith
Molly Malone
1994 Mk 1.5

Hey, me too..! Only mine's up in the attic..:p

Do (2) 500s make (1) 1000? :D

Depends; in parallel they = 250, in series 1000.

Oh, wait, that's electricity......:p

Guys, I've had the exact same problem with my maxwell, horizontally mounted windlass. In fact I'm probably the one who first posted the comment about using my foot to keep the chain from coming off. The good news is that I've solved my problem completely. My chain was coming off both when lowering and raising the anchor. After much analysis I realized that two major issues were contributing to the problem. First, as Tom said, the horizontal mount only allows for 90 degress of engagement with the chain wheel. You're not likely to change that. The other issue is that the chain has no guide to feed through at the bow end and thus is free to move from side to side. And actually the way the anchor stock and chain feed through the SS channel coming off and on the bow makes my chain move more to the port side by an inch or two which is enough to let it slip off the wheel. I solved the problem by installing a ss chain stopper over the molded depression just on the bow immediately behind the anchor stock. The chain stopper also functions as a guide, when the stopping plate is flipped up and lets the chain feed off easily but keeps it in alignment with the chain wheel. The stopper is through bolted with 7/16 ss bolts. I also had to fill the molded channel with FRP to form a solid flat mounting base for the stopper. The stopper was less than $20. I've tested this solution several times and the chain has never come off either on the drop or retrieve. The added benefit is that I now have a way to stop the chain from running out without grabbing it with my hand. I still have the problem of the chain pilling up below the drum on the recovery. But I deal with that by remaining standing and using a stick to disperse the pile. If anyone wants more details of this fix I'll be happy to make some pictures. The source for the stopper was the [url]www.marinepartdepot.com[/url]. but I checked and it looks like they've increased their price.
Sam

I used to have a similar problem and then discovered that I need to keep an eye on the pile of chain building up as it comes aboard. I then stop the windlass when it gets too high; how high is a matter of practise. I use my foot to push the chain pile over to spread the pile and make more room before continuing. With 120 feet of chain this usually means I have to spread the chain pile at least twice before the anchor is aboard. Since doing this I have had no further issues with chain jumping off the capstain wheel and I am currently doing a lot of anchoring.
John Meyer
Cruising Sea of Cortez

Sam,

Was it this stopper? [url]http://www.marinepartdepot.com/newststchst.html[/url] or is there a bigger one? (This one has 3/8" fasteners)

This retailer has a fantastic sale going on at the moment if anyone is after
SS deck hardware.

Nick

Nick, Yes, that's the exact one. When I got mine I measured the holes on the stopper for the bolts at 7/16" but I'm sure that's tolerance to allow 3/8 bolts.
I ordered the bolts, nuts, flat and lock washers from Bolt Depot. I used ss bolts 18-8, 3/8" - 16 x 3", they worked fine. [url]www.boltdepot.com[/url] .
Once you fill in the the little fiberglass channel with fiber glass, you can see how to best position the stopper, (for me it was as far aft as possible) then mark and drill the holes. The most trouble I had was getting the nuts and washers on inside of that bow cavity below the stopper. I had to remove the round access panel, (I'm assuming that you have the same) but still couldn't reach the aftermost bolt end. I then removed the whole access plate by unscrewing the round frame, which allowed enough diameter for me to get my arm in far enough. But I was scared to death that I would drop a nut or washer into the never-never reaches of the forepeak. But I didn't. Good luck.
Sam

Oh and one last little detail. That chain stopper has a pin on the top with a cotter ring on one end and spring ball loaded in the other so that the pin can be snaped out to remove the stopper plate and let the chain run free if necessary. I really liked that feature as it will allow release of the chain in an emergency situation where the winch won't work and the pull on the chain has locked the stopper plate closed.
But be sure that you either buy or make some little cables to attach to both the snap pin and the stopper plate (there's a hole in the plate for this purpose) then screw the other ends of these safety cables to the fiberglass side of the anchor locker. If anyone is doing this I'll take pictures tomorrow of how I did it and post.
Sam

Thanks Sam. I had a similar stopper on a previous boat on which I had all chain and it worked great. I will be installing one on the C36, but not until I can find an affordable windlass. I can't believe no one has ever seen then need to have a windlass on this great big boat! I have 100' of 5/16" chain and a 33lb anchor . . . it was an ordeal getting it on board last weekend in 20 feet of water; couldn't imagine what I'd do in deep water . . .

I'd like to see the pics if you have a chance to post them, even though the original C36 is no doubt configured slightly differently.

Thanks

Nick

Nick, I'm going to the boat tomorrow to do a list of stuff. Probably stay aboard till saturday. I'll take some shots and post the photos when I get back.
Sam

Here are some photos of my arrangement.
The key is that the chain is kept in line with the windlass chain wheel by the chain stopper and that keeps the chain from jumping off the wheel.
The dark fiberglass fill under the chain stopper is necessary to provide a solid platform to mount the stopper.

True Friend, I installed a Lewmar windlass about 5 years ago, that I thought was very reasonably priced. We have been very happy with it. I have attached a file with details and some photos.

Gary and Sam, thanks so much for sharing your windlass installation tips and pics!

Much appreciated.

Nick

Wow! nice looking job! Does the anchor locker hatch still close or did he have to cut a hole in it for the winch housing to clear?
Must have been expensive.
Thanks for sharing.
Sam