Nobody's answered yet and we don't have an asym on our 36, however, on our 28 we did have one and the block was on the anchor roller bail and it seemed fine. Much smaller sail however. I'm sure other folks have input more specific to the 36 and will weigh in.

I've always attached the tack block to the bail on the anchor roller, both on my C36 and my prior C30. I'm not familiar with the type of roller used on the MKI, so can't specifically comment on it. My C30 had a sliding pin instead of the bolted on bail on my C36, but it still worked just fine.

Our anchor roller is pretty long so I am not comfortable attaching the aspin tack to the bail due to the possible loads.

There is a hole in the roller channel about even with the stem that allows me to attach a snatch block and I use that sometimes when I want to have an adjustable tack. From that position, I am not using the long bow roller as a lever arm to pry itself off the deck.

Many times, I just us the ATN tacker to let the aspin tack ride on the furled headsail. That is best for deeper wind angles.

Bill,
Welcome! I'm sure you will LOVE the boat. It does everything well. Even though some people do it, attaching the tack pennant to the bail on the anchor roller is NOT recommended by the factory. The bail and the anchor roller were not designed for those loads. I'm sure you could get by on light air days, but you are asking for trouble with that practice. If your anchor roller does not have a hole in it near the stem fitting as Duane's does, it would be easy enough to drill one.

[QUOTE=Saildad;17497]Hello 36er's
This is my first post to the association website.
I just purchased Maverick an 89 MK I and I cannot wait to get her up to Channel Islands Harbor from San Diego!:D
My first of many questions. This boat comes with an Asymmetrical spinnaker in a sock. I would like to hear from those with this type of arrangement and where one would secure the tack line block. Is the anchor roller bail robust enough to handle this load? Thanks in advance. I look forward to a long and rewarding association with you all!
Capt Bill
Maverick
#1015 MK I[/QUOTE]

Some earlier discussion had indicated that it was Gerry Douglas (the designer) who indicated that the anchor roller was intended to hold the anchor up, not to hold the tack down. He felt there was a danger of ripping the anchor roller off the deck. I've never heard of that, but it seemed reasonable. I had my marina guys create a bobstay out of a 1/4" thick stainless steel bar. Google images for "bobstay" to get the idea. It's really strong and I could probably lift the boat from the anchor roller now. You might attach to something stronger than the bail. You could likely bend that up pretty good if the wind comes up.

As for the tack line, I did something a bit odd. My MKII came with two jib haylards, both run back to cabin top stoppers, but I only use one with roller furling and no races. I added a single turning block on a shackle off the anchor roller. My tack line goes down to the block, turns up to the mast head, comes down inside the mast, then turns back to the cockpit stopper. Seems like a lot of line and a tortuous path, but it's nice to have the tack adjustable from the cockpit.

Related question that has me thinking -- my Mk II has a spare halyard, though I haven't had a chance to get down to the boat to see how it is rigged at the masthead. I *do* know that both the labeling on the cabin-top and (I'm 95% sure on this one) the owner's manual describe it as a "spinnaker halyard." Did some of our boats come with a spinnaker halyard factory-installed? This to me would make way more sense than a spare jib halyard on a boat with a roller-furling genoa.

[QUOTE=FlyMeAway;17527]Related question that has me thinking -- my Mk II has a spare halyard, though I haven't had a chance to get down to the boat to see how it is rigged at the masthead. I *do* know that both the labeling on the cabin-top and (I'm 95% sure on this one) the owner's manual describe it as a "spinnaker halyard." Did some of our boats come with a spinnaker halyard factory-installed? This to me would make way more sense than a spare jib halyard on a boat with a roller-furling genoa.[/QUOTE]

Some roller furling extrusions have two slots and racers will slide up a new sail on an open slot before taking down the old sail in order to avoid any moments w/o a headsail. That's my understanding of the reason for two halyards.

You cannot use a jib halyard for a spinnaker. Jib halyard comes out below the forestay, spinnaker halyard comes out above the forestay. Spinnaker line will be through a block on a bail on the front of the masthead. Using a jib halyard for a spinnaker will create wear on both the line and the sail and open potential for wrapping things up on top.

[QUOTE=FlyMeAway;17527]Related question that has me thinking -- my Mk II has a spare halyard, though I haven't had a chance to get down to the boat to see how it is rigged at the masthead. I *do* know that both the labeling on the cabin-top and (I'm 95% sure on this one) the owner's manual describe it as a "spinnaker halyard." Did some of our boats come with a spinnaker halyard factory-installed? This to me would make way more sense than a spare jib halyard on a boat with a roller-furling genoa.[/QUOTE]

Have you looked under the V Berth?:D:D:D

I always wondered why I had a spinnaker halyard until I looked under the V Berth and found a spinnaker.......after 14 years of owning the boat.:D

Mike

[QUOTE=dejavu;17536]Have you looked under the V Berth?:D:D

I always wondered why I had a spinnaker halyard until I looked under the V Berth and found a spinnaker.......after 14 years of owning the boat.:D

Mike[/QUOTE]

I know I remember that post! I'm the one who suggested that perhaps if the spinnaker was a bit much for you... :D

Seriously, though, after you posted that I checked every compartment on the boat looking for a spinnaker. No luck.

Ok. So confirmed that my 2003 Mk II has a proper spinnaker halyard (rigged from a block on the masthead bail, forward of the forestay).

I'm planning on trying a spinnaker. Just purchased an ATN Tacker for this, to attach the asymmetric around the furled jib. Two questions on this.

1) Where you attach the downhaul line for the ATN? I understand not attaching the tack of the spinnaker directly to the roller bail, but is the downhaul still too much force? (my guess is, possibly). Where else to attach?

2) Can I use genoa cars on the outside tracks? If I'm planning on buying new/used ones, does anybody have suggestions as to whether low-profile heavy duty (like our genoa cars) or spring-loaded swivel blocks are better for flying the spinnaker? Or should it just not matter?

1. Using the ATN tacker, the force on the downhaul should be a bit less than a tack pendant attached directly to the deck, but in some cases it won't be much less. Since the ATN tacker will slide up/down the furled headsail, can you attach the downhaul to a bow cleat with a block?

2. Unless your spinnaker is pretty small across the foot, you want the turning block to be pretty far aft, so I am not sure the outboard Genoa tracks are the answer. Rather than leading the spin sheet through a car, you are supposed to have the sheet run far aft to a turning block and then forward to your winch. In our boats, we have to use the primary winch.

See image I got off the Internet.

Interesting. That image makes it look like I could use the existing jib turning blocks, without any need for a track. Certainly makes the system about $150+ dollars cheaper.

[QUOTE=FlyMeAway;17614]Interesting. That image makes it look like I could use the existing jib turning blocks, without any need for a track. Certainly makes the system about $150+ dollars cheaper.[/QUOTE]

Not quite, David. The cheek blocks on my 1999 model are angled with the coaming and the spin sheets will certainly chafe on the cheek plates. What I did (posted before with pics, I believe) was to install a sturdy padeye on top of the cheek plate (using the center bolt for the sheave for one side of the padeye and another carefully located bolt to avoid interference with the sheave and Genoa sheet). I attach a swivel turning block to the padeye and reeve the spin sheet through that to the primary Genoa winches. It works great.

It looks much like the image I posted.

Try this link for the orignal post with pics: [url]http://www.c36ia.com/forums/showthread.php?t=584&highlight=padeye+cheek[...

Interesting layout.

In thinking about this, will there only be a problem (with using the tracks) if I want to use the asymmetric on relatively upwind points of sail (the diagram you sent looks like proper trim for a beam reach)? I'm thinking of flying the spinnaker on a broadreach only.

I think it does answer my question, though, about the kinds of track blocks I would need -- much better to have a swivel block (is there a more technical name for this?) rather than the track car.

This isn't for racing. It's for cruising. Given the prevailing winds on Puget Sound, a fast downwind leg home means more time hanging out in the San Juans.

Well, David, if the kite clew will always be flying fairly far forward due to deep wind angles, then you could probably get away with running the sheet through some block on the outer track. You still need to ensure that the angle of the sheet from the block to the winch drum is appropriate so that you do not get overrides.

FWIW, I have seen sailors attach swivel blocks to their stern cleats. I am not sure if you would have a fair lead from there to the winch. I know that I have way too much gear in the way.

Another thought, if not racing and only sailing broad reaches, you may not need a tack downhaul at all. If in that situation, I often just let the ATN tacker slide up the furled headsail until it stops at the Genoa sheets. That is a good height for my tack and the size of my asymmetrical. Yours might not work that, but at the least, you could get away with a fixed pennant and not need to rig an adjustable downhaul.

I just fly my cruising kite from a 3' piece of line tied around the anchor roller. On my early mark 1 boat the rollers don't extend forward of the bow, they are about an inch or two from the forestay pin. Never had a problem.

As for sheet leads, again on the mark 1 the toe rail track runs a long way aft and my spinnaker sheets lead to the track just in front of the forward leg of the stern pushpit.

This is one reason why "the devil is always in the details."

Jason's boat has a really short anchor roller so when the spin tack loads are applied, there is not a large lever arm to multiply the forces and overload the attachment to the deck.

Hey thanks all. Just bought a very inexpensive used spinnaker so looking forward to trying this in the next few weeks.

One more quick question: what's a reasonable SWL on a block for the adjustable downhaul for the asymmetries on our boats? Is 2,800 lbs. reasonable or can I go as low as 2,000 lbs.?

How about size of spinnaker sheets?

I can't say with certainty, but I believe the 2000 lb SWL will be OK. That is what I use on mine.

Just judging by the effort I experience when adjusting the downhaul under load, it seems WAY less than that.