I'm going through the process of purchasing a 2000 Catalina 36 MKII and have gone though the survey and sea trial. The boat is very well cared for, but the survey report did note some essential repairs. Most I have a handle on, but one I'm not completely sure about what to do.
Report says: Floor timbers/stringers: "Small cracks in all of the vessel's floor timbers including the aft end of the mast step."
The cracks are quite small. Some just hairline, but they are on every timber at the joint where the the timber meets the hull in the bilge. Sailing was done in the Chesapeake and owner (of 14 yrs) doesn't remember any hard groundings. Any C36 owners know if I should be concerned about these small cracks. Are they common? Note: The keel exterior when it was hauled for inspection, showed no signs of the Catalina Smile written in the forum. Hull & keel were in very good shape.
Hope to become a member of the C36 crew (sailing for over 50 yrs, but first time buying a big boat). Need to go though things carefully first. It can be quite intimidating...
Tom R
No boat # or name yet.
Tom Runiewicz
ObLaDi ObLaDa
Catalina 36 MkII, Wing Keel, Tall Rig
Hull #1998
North East, MD
Somehere in the Forum's archives, there is a post regarding the floor timbers/ribs/or what ever their technical term is. If memory serves me, the posting indicated that they are not structural and are designed to support the hull and aid in it's removal from the mold....or something like that. They probably do provide some support to the cabin floor. Again, if memory serves me, the posting was done after some research with the Catalina factory so likely has some credibility (if I'm not imagining it). I don't think the wood ribs have a very thick layer of fiberglass and the fiberglass is finished with a gelcoat or some other brittle paint. Assuming there are no other cracks in the bilge, the bulkheads are all well bedded to cabin and sole, no signs of exterior hull damage, no signs of stress cracks around the keelbolts, then my opinion would be to not worry about it.
Our surveyor (named "doctor death" by the brokers) set off alarm bells after spotting a crack in the fiberglass floor pan running from beneath the mast step casting- which was also cracked. The initial theory- hard grounding (no evidence on the exterior though). We pulled the mast and removed the casting only to find the factory had sloppily left a nut beneath the casting and this created the crack when the mast set down. It was worth exploring, and I give the surveyor points for bringing it to our attention.
If your surveyor truly thought your cracks were more than cosmetic, hopefully he would have sounded the alarm for you, but it seems like he didn't because no other signs of a hard grounding were observed.
One last thought- If the cracks extend down to the bilge floor, ask the surveyor if a moisture reading might provide some information. Also, try searching the web site to see if my memory is any good; limber holes, floor joists, ribs, hull timbers etc.
Best of luck. Welcome to the Association and c36 ownership.
Paul & Wendy Keyser
"First Light"
Rye NH
2005 C36 MKII #2257
Wing, M35B
Thanx much for the commentary. I been through the forum pretty well and seem to also remember the posting about the the timbers not being structural. I was wondering if that was true.
Another thing mentioned a lot in the forum is rebeding the chain plates. The owner rebed them approx 10 yrs ago. My survey report said to rebed again. It was over due. Moisture was detected in one of them on the port side. Know if that's a big job? Seems like it would be to do the 6 on the sides. Any recommendation about the process? Other option would be to have a rigger do it. What's something like that cost? Figure I'll work that into the final purchase price if I have it done.
Just learning, you can't buy these babies. You adopt them.
Tom R
Tom Runiewicz
ObLaDi ObLaDa
Catalina 36 MkII, Wing Keel, Tall Rig
Hull #1998
North East, MD
Tom-
I believe there are some forum articles on chainplates and would defer to that info as I have never done that work before.
Paul & Wendy Keyser
"First Light"
Rye NH
2005 C36 MKII #2257
Wing, M35B
Rebeding the chainplates is an easy afternoon job. CatalinaDirect sells improved covers that gives a bit more room for butyl than the originals, but I find the originals work fine.
For me the hardest part was removing all the darn silicone. I used a cone shaped burr on a dremell tool to give space for a thicker butyl layer. I did not pull the chain plates to check for crevice corrosion. If your in warm climate that might be something to consider. If you do router the balsa back about 1/4 inch and fill the space with thickened epoxy which will prevent core rot if the butyl fails. For the screws I just put a good champher on them. But again if you have additional time drilling them out, routing the balsa back and filling with epoxy is the superior method
fir the best butyl go to marinehowto.com. While there read the article on beading
if you core is wet be sure and dry it prior to doing the bedding
Mahalo - Les
Les & Trish Troyer
Mahalo
Everett, WA
1983 C-36 Hull #0094
C-36 MK 1 Technical Editor.
Commodore