Just Purchased! (and new to forum, and an engine question)

25 posts / 0 new
Last post
FlyMeAway
Offline
Joined: 3/20/12
Posts: 241
Just Purchased! (and new to forum, and an engine question)

Lifelong sailor, now the proud owner of my first boat -- a beautiful 2003 C36 MKII.

I've been lurking in these forums for a while, and have to say that the information has been really great in informing my purchase decision and in pushing me towards Catalina (such a great user community is a definite plus).

I'm sure I will have many, many questions, but the first is -- my experience using an engine on any sailboat is fairly limited, as I've almost always sailed on and off a mooring. Does anybody have a good checklist (and I mean down to the detail of "put key in ignition, turn key") before starting the engine?

The notes about the aqua muffler in the user manual, they kind of scare me.

Thanks!

David
s/v Portmanteau
Hull #2133 -- 2003 MKII
Seattle, WA

HowLin's picture
HowLin
Offline
Joined: 1/12/12
Posts: 355

Hi David;

We also just purchased a 'new to us' Catalina 36MkII ! - 1999 #1776.
Having sailed and owned many boats over 30 years, I can safely say that you can never know too much about your engine and all other systems onboard.
The owners manual (if you have one) has a wealth of information, but this web-site will be a huge benefit for sure.
I'm sure that you will get several good responses to your questions here.

Howard

---- Howard & Linda Matwick ----

--- S/V "Silhouette" - Nanaimo, BC ----

--- 1999  C36 MkII  #1776 M35BC ---

Nimue's picture
Nimue
Offline
Joined: 6/23/09
Posts: 429

Checklist:

- is engine water intake thru-hull open?

- Go!

Jason V
Vancouver, BC, Canada

neilroach
Offline
Joined: 2/4/10
Posts: 126

Hi David, congradulations. Where will you be mooring?
I'm at Elliot Bay Marina and just right where I am there are 3 36's in a row, various ages. Quite a bit of info available on M Dock. Let me know if I can help.
What I know of the engine just calls for the basics, fuel, sea water cock open, oil, Start according to instructions (30 seconds of pre heat for cold start except for our one day of summer). After start, is water being expelled from the exhaust. A little warm up. and go. Watch the temps.
See you on the sound.

Neil Roach
"Crewless"
1992 36, Mark I
Hull # 1174
Seattle

Laura's picture
Laura
Offline
Joined: 12/23/07
Posts: 150

David:
Welcome aboard!
If you have not yet joined the actual Association, please consider doing so, as you will have access to lots of great technical information. I am the Membership Officer, so let me know if you have any questions about Membership.

As for your new boat and newness to the engine, etc. DON"T WORRY- we are here to help!
When we took ownership of our MKI about 4 years ago, I knew nothing of diesels and lots of other big boat items.

After following the members at our site and our chat group via email, I can safely say I know my C36 inside and out. It helps to have some mechanical inclination (which I do- I often say God did not create me rich (nor should HE!), however, He did make me handy!)

When you rename your boat, be sure and follow the Denaming AND Renaming Ceremonies that well-known sailor and author, John Vigor wrote. It will save you from the wrath of the sea Gods!!

Best of luck and please rely on all of us as a resource.

Laura Olsen
Commodore C36/375IA
S/V Miramar
hull 938 (MKI 1989, TR,WK, M25xp)
Edgemere, MD

BudStreet
Offline
Joined: 9/4/09
Posts: 1127

[quote=FlyMeAway;12856]
The notes about the aqua muffler in the user manual, they kind of scare me.

[/quote]

Congratulations, you'll love that boat.

What about that scares you? It's a pretty benign piece, mostly.

dejavu's picture
dejavu
Offline
Joined: 11/6/08
Posts: 433

Don't forget to unplug the shore power cord. Do not ask me how I know this.:o

Mike

PS - Welcome!

Deja Vu
1991 MK I # 1106
Marina del Rey, CA

stu jackson c34's picture
stu jackson c34
Offline
Joined: 12/3/08
Posts: 1270

David,

I made this up starting from a C320 checklist I blatantly ripped off the internet! :)

Edit as you see fit after you get the hang of your own boat.

********************************************
AQUAVITE Catalina 34 Sail & Hull # 224 1986
VHF Whiskey Charlie Foxtrot 1537 Registration No.: CF 1537 JG

BOARDING CHECKLIST

Stow Main Hatch – aft cabin
Locker Locks – put in port coaming
DC House Loads On – 1-2-B switch on “1” (see below)
Check Battery Voltages, Amps & Amp Hours with Link 2000
Bilge Pump Auto/Manual switch under galley sink, always back to auto
Seacocks Open: Galley out, Head in, Engine Raw Water in, Head Sink out
Set Holding Tank valves
Set Refrigerator ON
Check Weather on VHF WX or 2
Launch Dingy Before Using Diesel Heater
CNG Gas Valve - aft cabin settee
Open anchor locker – clip lock onto port pulpit

ELECTRICAL AC/DC Load Switches

AC -- 30 amp Master ON when ONLY on shorepower
AC Outlets -- will be on with AC master
Battery Charger -- via Link 2000 – OFF with shorepower off
Inverter -- via Link 2000 - OFF
Water Heater (pushbutton) ON only when on shorepower

DC Master (1-2-B) 1: HOUSE; 2 : START; do NOT use BOTH

DC PANEL

Left side
Running Lights
Anchor Light rarely used – see oil lamps
Spreader (deck light)
Steaming Light – only when motoring at night
Cabin Lights On after dark
Green DC power on light

Right Side
Refrigerator
Macerator Pump - on only when pumping overboard with small thru hull open
Instruments – DS, KM, WS (Autopilot separate switch under helmsman seat)
Water Pressure – fresh water galley and head sink
Stereo –Loran removed 2010
Sump Pump – shower sump power, separate switch in head; also powers stereo powered subwoofer

DEPARTURE CHECKLIST

Before Engine Start

Check Engine hours for fuel level
Set Holding Tank valves
Check Engine (Oil & Coolant Levels)
Check Raw Water Strainer, Seacock Open
Check Fuel Filter Water Sump
All Gear Below Stowed for Sailing
Record Amp Hours from Link 2000 in log book
Hatches Closed & Secure for Seaway
Prepare Rig for Sailing
Shore Power Loads Off
Stow Shore Power Cable
Tend Dingy
VHF handheld at helm
Binoculars at helm
Seat cushions starboard and helm; leave port below for access to locker
Throwable cushions out
Charts and GPS Waypoints reviewed

Engine Start
1-2-B on “1”
Regulator switch on 50% (under head sink) – aft is 50%
Instruments ON
Confirm raw water seacock open
Gearbox in Neutral
Throttle to 1/3rd FWD of Idle
Key On (tan, bumps down) with Low Oil Pressure Alarm sounding
Glow Plug button On for 15 Seconds
Release glow plug button
Start (Push Button on Panel)
Check for water exhaust
Reduce throttle down to low idle before 45 second delay on tachometer
Set Idle @ 1100 RPM when tachometer starts
Check Low Oil Pressure Alarm Off
Confirm Instruments ON, check autopilot for power

Engine Stop
Throttle down to 1100 rpm
Gearbox in neutral
Pull Stop Handle Up, engine stops
Push stop handle down fully
CCW ignition key, remove key, hang on stop handle
Gearbox in reverse when sailing

STARBOARD SWITCH PANEL

Upper Left – saloon light (up is OFF)
Upper Right – galley light (up is OFF)
Lower Left – Galley sink assist pump (down is OFF)
Lower Right – Combiner ground leg shutoff

5 DAY CHECKLIST

Check Steering Cables
Check Exhaust Hoses
Check Transmission Fluid Level
Check Battery Water Level
Check Engine Belt and Cooling Hoses
Check Bilge Pump Operation
Check Rigging Hardware
Check Running & Steaming Light Operation

SEASONAL CHECKLIST

Change Engine Oil @ 50 hours
Change transmission fluid – gear in starboard settee
Check Engine Zincs – 4 months see engine log
Check All Bilge Areas
Service Winches
Check Anchor Fastenings

Orig. Date: Tuesday, April 08, 2008
Update: Wednesday, May 02, 2012

Stu Jackson, C34IA Secretary, C34 #224, 1986, SR/FK, M25 engine, Rocna 10 (22#)

John Reimann's picture
John Reimann
Offline
Joined: 12/2/08
Posts: 321

like me... One trick I learned from somebody is to drape the ignition key over the raw water intake through hull handle so I don't forget to open that up before starting the engine.

SF Bay
1998 C36

jackheaston's picture
jackheaston
Offline
Joined: 2/6/11
Posts: 46

Hi David
Welcome Aboard!
I nearly always singlehand and use a rather absurdly detailed checklist for getting underway. The old days of "kick the tire, light the fire," are way in the past.
After growing weary of forgetting to bring the spare jib and spinnaker halyards aft before unfurling the headsail, having the forward hatch slightly ajar to snag the jib sheets during a tack, leaving the autopilot control down below, the inboard headsail turning blocks in a drawer, etc., the checklist makes leaving the dock wondering "WTF did I forget this time?" much less likely.
Some of the items will not universally apply and the level of detail will maybe garner uncharitable observations from other forum users. However, the engine is perfectly happy to start in reverse, but will not start with the engine kill handle not completely seated. Don't ask how.....
I never, repeat NEVER, let the key out of the cabin without first opening the raw water seacock.
After clearing the marina, only the fenders, boarding ladder and lifeline gates require I leave the cockpit. The bow dock line and its spring are removed before shoving off. I retie the fenders to the lifelines with slipped rolling hitches to make them easier to free than if secured to cleats or the spinnaker pole bracket.
There is then no reason to leave the cockpit to raise the sails.
Tried attaching an Excel spreadsheet of a "Leaving the Boat Checklist" in the past, but no joy. Resorted to inserting the whole thing in the body of the post, which drew the obligatory derogatory remarks. Will do that again with this checklist. If you'd like the Excel version, I'd be happy to email it to you.
Enjoy your new boat.
Regards,
Jack

C36 Departure Checklist 7/2011

US Flag Raised
S/S Bow Dockline Removed
Propane Bottle (and Spare) in Anchor Locker?
Spare Jib and Spinnaker Halyards AFT of Spreaders
Canvas Covers Removed
Mainsail Cover OFF
Mainsail Halyard Attached
Mainsail Slides and Turning Blocks Spray Lubed
Inboard Headsail Sheet Lead Blocks ON
Headsail Sheets Attached and Led to Winches
Jib Halyard Hardened
LifeSling Lanyard Secured

Water Heater OFF
Battery Charger OFF
110 Volt Master OFF
Shore Power Pedestal Breaker OFF
Shore Power Cord Stowed

Ports (6) and Hatches (2) Closed
All Seacocks Closed - Galley Sink?
Winch Handle in Cockpit Holder
Autopilot Control Module
Chart Plotter, GPS and Radar Displays
Bin Boards Secured
Webasto Chimney Cover ON/OFF?
110-volt Heater Secured
Dehumidifiers Secured
Shelves, Tables, Counters, Sliders, Drawers, Bins Secured
PFDs, Cushions, Handheld VHF, Horn, Ferry Schedule
Hat, Gloves, Sunglasses, Camera, Sunscreen, Water, Pisseria
Charts, Currents, Tides, Wind Forecast
Battery Voltage & Selection
12-volt Panel - Water OFF, Instruments, Autopilot, (Lights?) ON
Refrigerator Secured ON?,
Oven Door Latched, Gimbal Lock OFF, Stove Pads

Engine Oil, Belt Tension, Coolant (Transmission?) Checked
Raw Water Strainer Clear
Raw Water Seacock Open FIRST, Key to Cockpit SECOND

Engine Kill Handle Fully IN,Transmission in Neutral, Throttle Cracked, Glow Plugs?
Engine Start, cooling water in exhaust, charging voltage, oil pressure, temp

Chart Plotter, GPS and Radar Displays ON
Wheel Brake Loosened
Rudder Neutral
Boarding Ladder Deployed
Boarding Step Stowed
Boat Hook Available
Fenders on Lifelines

Jack Heaston
1987 C36 Mk I #692
Fin Keel, Std Rig, Rocna 15
Silent Passage, M25 XPB Repower

hilbre
Offline
Joined: 7/19/08
Posts: 218

David
Welcome, you will enjoy #2133, our boats were close to each other during building.
John Meyer

John Meyer
Hilbre
C36 MKll, Hull 2135

Cabrillo Marina, San Pedro, CA

LCBrandt's picture
LCBrandt
Offline
Joined: 6/26/07
Posts: 1282

When our boat was new I created a checklist to cover important items. I printed it out and laminated it, a total of 5 pages double-sided, punched a hole in an upper corner and used a snap ring to make an easy to use booklet. I'll write a quick note and place this Word doc on the C36IA home page. It's too large a file to attach to a forum post. Anyone who wants to use it as a basis for creating their own checklist may do so.

Larry Brandt
S/V High Flight #2109
Pacific Northwest, PDX-based
2002 C-36 mkII SR/FK M35B
 

FlyMeAway
Offline
Joined: 3/20/12
Posts: 241

Thank you all for your extremely helpful lists, and the wonderful warm welcome!

I may have other questions. I'm learning. :-)

David
s/v Portmanteau
Hull #2133 -- 2003 MKII
Seattle, WA

Chachere's picture
Chachere
Offline
Joined: 10/27/10
Posts: 825

My current list -- printed on a card left on the navtable (maybe as my memory gets frailer it'll need to be longer!).

[U]Opening checklist[/U]
- bilge checked
- open seacocks, [B]including engine[/B]
- life sling attached
- shore power and water disconnected
- check engine oil, fuel filter
- batteries checked
- electronics On
- mainsail uncovered
- engine started - [B]check for water[/B]
- hatches closed
- Topping lift slackened

[U]Closing checklist[/U]
- mainsail covered
- Lines Coiled
- winch handles stowed
- electronics covered
- cushions stowed
- CNG tank closed
- engine key stowed
- wheel locked
- hatches bolted - including aft cab.
- seacocks closed
- bilge checked
- fridge checked
- water heater off
- shore power on
- charger on
- battery Switched Off / (unless fridge on)
- take out garbage
- companionway locked
- turn off & unplug streetwater supply

[U]Seacock list[/U]:
Aft to Forward:
1) Engine intake
2) Galley Drain
3) Macerator
4) Head intake /sink drain
5) shower sump drain
6) AC intake
7) AC discharge

Matthew Chachère
s/v ¡Que Chévere!
(Formerly 1985 C36 MKI #466 tall rig fin keel M25)
2006 Catalina Morgan 440 #30.
Homeported in eastern Long Island, NY

FlyMeAway
Offline
Joined: 3/20/12
Posts: 241

Ok, consider me an idiot on this -- this is the first time I've skippered something with an inboard we've actually used (my prior sailing experience has been almost entirely on and off moorings).

I've got a Mark II with the Catalina Type A engine panel, which isn't discussed at all in either the Universal manual or the Catalina manual the accompanied the boat. My engine panel only has one button and the ignition key goes on the side -- not covered in the manual.

What's the proper procedure for getting the darn thing started? I want to get out of this marina so I can put up some sails!

David
s/v Portmanteau
Hull #2133 -- 2003 MKII
Seattle, WA

caprice 1050
Offline
Joined: 7/1/07
Posts: 345

Turn the ignition key to the right then turn it a little more against the spring untill it stops. This energizes the Glow Plug to warm the engine. Hold the key over agasint the spring for 20-30 seconds relese the key but leave it in the On position then hit the starter button and the engine should start after one or two revolutions at the most.

__/)__/)__/)__Capt Mike__/)__/)__/)__
Punta Gorda Florida
1990 Std WK M35 Hull #1050

plaineolde's picture
plaineolde
Offline
Joined: 11/4/08
Posts: 753

and just in case....

to stop it, pull the "T" handle up and hold it. This cuts off the fuel supply to the injectors and stops the engine. The oil pressure alarm should sound shortly thereafter. Turn off the key. Note that turning off the key will not stop the engine.

Gary and Cathy Price
1997 C36 Mk II Tall Rig/Wing Keel Imagine...
Hull # 1617
Worton Creek, Md.
Northern Chesapeake Bay

FlyMeAway
Offline
Joined: 3/20/12
Posts: 241

Thanks everybody.

Still a little confused by the starter motor -- manual says not to run it for more than 30 seconds, but these instructions make it sound like I'm not running it at all?

David
s/v Portmanteau
Hull #2133 -- 2003 MKII
Seattle, WA

HowLin's picture
HowLin
Offline
Joined: 1/12/12
Posts: 355

When you push the 'Start' button you are running the starter motor...
Don't hold the 'Start' button more than 30 seconds even if the engine doesn't start. (Although your engine will hopefully start in 3 or 4 seconds and you will release the 'Start' button then.
H

---- Howard & Linda Matwick ----

--- S/V "Silhouette" - Nanaimo, BC ----

--- 1999  C36 MkII  #1776 M35BC ---

caprice 1050
Offline
Joined: 7/1/07
Posts: 345

Another thing, make sure the "T" handle that Plaineolde metioned is all the way down before trying to start the engine.

__/)__/)__/)__Capt Mike__/)__/)__/)__
Punta Gorda Florida
1990 Std WK M35 Hull #1050

stu jackson c34's picture
stu jackson c34
Offline
Joined: 12/3/08
Posts: 1270

[QUOTE=FlyMeAway;12984]Thanks everybody.

Still a little confused by the starter motor -- manual says not to run it for more than 30 seconds, but these instructions make it sound like I'm not running it at all?[/QUOTE]

The reason is: water will fill up in your muffler (a question you raised on page one) and could back up into your engine, filling the cylinders with water. Water is incompressible, and you will blow your engine. That's why all those warnings are out there.

Stu Jackson, C34IA Secretary, C34 #224, 1986, SR/FK, M25 engine, Rocna 10 (22#)

hilbre
Offline
Joined: 7/19/08
Posts: 218

On your boat the muffler is just behind the bulkhead on the right side of the engine. If you remove the Engine cover under the companionway you will see a square, clear or white container with a stopcock at the bottom of it. The stopcock is so you can drain water from the muffler should the engine not start after 30 seconds. Stu is correct, once this muffler is full, water will back up into the engine.
John Meyer

John Meyer
Hilbre
C36 MKll, Hull 2135

Cabrillo Marina, San Pedro, CA

LCBrandt's picture
LCBrandt
Offline
Joined: 6/26/07
Posts: 1282

John is saying that the muffler is on the 'right side of the engine' as you face aft. That is, portside of the engine.

Background...
When the engine is being cranked - and not starting - the camshaft-driven impeller turns, pumping sea water through the heat exchanger and into the water muffler. Ordinarily the engine will start in a couple of seconds and exhaust gases will 'blow' the water out of the muffler and on out the exhaust. If you crank the engine for 30 seconds and the engine does NOT start, the sea water accumulates in the muffler. Too much cranking without the engine starting will gather enough water to backfill into the engine cylinders, thus damaging the engine in a serious way.

Your engine should always start promptly. If it doesn't start within 5 or ten seconds, STOP what you're doing and find out why. Usually it's because the T-handle kill switch has inadvertently been left UP, in the engine kill position. (Another possible reason may be that you've been doing maintenance on the fuel filters and you have air in the fuel lines.)

When you shut down the engine, pull the T-handle up to kill the engine, leaving your hand on the T-handle until the engine stops, then immediately push the T-handle down. Get in that habit.

If you find yourself cranking for 30 seconds, STOP what you're doing and drain the water from the muffler. You can access it by removing the engine cover in the aft cabin (two rubber holddown clamps). You'll find a petcock on the inboard side of the muffler. Just drain the water from it and you're good for another 30 seconds of cranking. [Disclaimer: In 10 years I have never had to do this. Even on the coldest day, temp near zero fahrenheit, by using 15 seconds of preheat the engine starts the first or second try.]

Larry Brandt
S/V High Flight #2109
Pacific Northwest, PDX-based
2002 C-36 mkII SR/FK M35B
 

FlyMeAway
Offline
Joined: 3/20/12
Posts: 241

Awesome. You all are fantastic! Took her out for two days this weekend; got the engine started and off the dock no problem.

The engine starts almost instantly; I'm pretty sure I'm pre-heating right (turning the key forward until the alarm stops; holding it there for 15-20 seconds, then pushing start).

David
s/v Portmanteau
Hull #2133 -- 2003 MKII
Seattle, WA

LCBrandt's picture
LCBrandt
Offline
Joined: 6/26/07
Posts: 1282

David, preheat *in the winter* is about 15 to 20 seconds up here in the Pacific Northwest; in the milder seasons like now, maybe 5 seconds should do it.

When you're ready to start, turn the key to the 'three-o'clock' preheat position. When you have the key there, holding it against the internal spring, count your time, then push the Start button while the key is still at 3:00. When the engine starts, you release the key.

The VERY NEXT THING you do is look over the transom and confirm that you have cooling water. Because the Mk II exhausts below the counter you learn to depend on sound and ripples on the water to confirm cooling water flow. This habit of confirming that you have cooling water applies to any marine engine you operate, from the one on your C36 all the way to that 2 1/2 hp kicker you have on the dink.

Larry Brandt
S/V High Flight #2109
Pacific Northwest, PDX-based
2002 C-36 mkII SR/FK M35B
 

Log in or register to post comments