I have to put in a new prop shaft and had to droop the rudder
I notice the upper part has grease on it but the lower part of the rudder shaft is dry
should the Whole thing be greased and what kind of grease to use?
The strut has no set screws what if any thing goes on the outside of the cutlass bearing?
boat yard guy sad nothing or they glue them in with epoxy.
same question about the prop and the shaft , and the coupler?
propspeed on the section of shaft in the cutlass bearing?
project started out as repack the stuffing box and touch up the bottom paint, and
apply some prop speed to the shaft and prop.
cutlass bearing is gone so shaft has to come out, so the rudder has to come off.
prop shaft hits dead center on the rudder , not a snowball's chance of getting one back in with the
rudder in place.
boat is a 85 MK1 with the original engine and transmission. And the answer to the question of
how long is the shaft ? 56.75 inches with a 2.5" 1/4"X1/4" keyway on the coupler end
Booker C
1985 C36 MK1
We could replace the prop shaft on our '86 C30 as long as the prop was off and cutlas bearing was removed to provide shaft play inside the strut. The cutlas bearing had no set screws and was kept in place by press fitting it into the strut. I've read that rudder shafts should not be lubricated. I don't know the reason, but perhaps grease/oils would degrade the rudder post housing. The gland at the top of the rudder post should just have a wax coated woven fiber or teflon based woven packing.
Paul & Wendy Keyser
"First Light"
Rye NH
2005 C36 MKII #2257
Wing, M35B
I can see the argument for no grease on the rudder, it could hold crap that would be flushed out
water isn't the worst lubricant in the world.
dropping the rudder isn't really that big a job on the MK1 with liberal application of Kroil the day before.
a little heat on the strut and freezer for the bearing and it shouldn't be too bad to get in.
installation tool is about a 10 minute job to make.
Booker C
1985 C36 MK1