I am not getting hot water from running my engine. The engine gets up to temp and stays at 160 degrees per laser thermometer, so coolant must be circulating through the engine. (It does seem to take a long time to get up to temp.) Could it be my thermostat is stuck "open", so coolant is not flowing through the bypass w/h loop?...or maybe some blockage in those smaller hoses?
Any other ideas or suggestions?
—
Stephen Kruse
Kruse Control #1428
1995 C-36 MKII SR/WK
Lake Lanier, Ga.
First question is are you running the engine at a reasonable load? My experience is that diesels run fairly cool under low load, so idling the engine in neutral will take a LONG time for the engine to heat up.
If you are running under load, such as motoring, and still not getting to temp very quickly, then a thermostat stuck open is a possibility. It is hard to imagine the hoses getting clogged.
Duane Ising - Past Commodore (2011-2012)
s/v Diva Di
1999 Catalina 36 Hull #1777
Std rig; wing keel, M35B, Delta (45#)
Punta Gorda, FL
http://www.sailblogs.com/member/diva-di/
I ran under load for 30 minutes....engine temp at the gauge was 160 and 160 on a digital laser thermometer. There are 2 "small" hoses coming off the engine near the thermostat that feed to the 5/8 engine fresh water hoses...thought those smaller hoses could be blocked.
Most likely occurence is the thermostat.
Stephen Kruse
Kruse Control #1428
1995 C-36 MKII SR/WK
Lake Lanier, Ga.
Stephen,
I do not agree with your thermostat theory. If you are seeing 160 degrees on your gauge your engine is getting warm enough, water still circulates through the engine with the thermostat closed it just does not open up to the heat exchanger.
I suspect you have a flow problem, if you have 160 degree water going to the water heater heat exchanger you will get very hot water after about fifteen minutes or less of engine operation. You would not be happy holding your hands under 160 degree water. It is not uncommon for owners to put in a shut off or bypass in this system, I would check for that first. Something must be preventing flow through the water heater heat exchanger but, I find it hard to believe it would be the thermostat it is regulating the temp at 160 degrees.
Steve
Cepheus dream
C36 MK I # 825
MK I Tech Editor No Mas
Stephen use your laser thermometer on the coolant in/out hoses and the fresh water in/ out hoses at the hot water heater to narrow down the issue. The coolant in should be around 160. Coolant out should be not much less. I agree with Steve. I think you have a flow issue from engine to hw heater. My cat 30 had the flow redirect valves Steve mentions It was located in the engine compartment and allows you to adjust the among of coolant going through the hw heater loop. Air pocket in hw heater fresh water loop?
Tom Irwin
North Saanich, BC, Canada
1983 Catalina 30 - #3134
Until June 10, 2013
Future Catalina 36 MK II owner
Just in case, I still want to have a new thermostat on hand when I get to the boat. Can someone who has purchased one confirm the Kubota part number....it looks to be #301358.
Going to a Kubota part looks to be 50% of the Torensen or Catalina Direct site.
Stephen Kruse
Kruse Control #1428
1995 C-36 MKII SR/WK
Lake Lanier, Ga.
the Kubota number is 15531-73013
Stephen Kruse
Kruse Control #1428
1995 C-36 MKII SR/WK
Lake Lanier, Ga.
It sounds like you might have air in the hose leading too or from the engine from the water heater. A quick check of the engine hoses going too and from the water heater will tell if your fluid is flowing. If the hoses are cold or cool you either have a blockage or air in the hose. If it's air in the hose disconnect the hose and with the help of a funnel pour radiator fluid in one of the hoses. When it starts coming out the other end you have removed the air. Reconnect the hoses and try running the engine. Hopefully that should solve your problem.
Chris Stewart
S/V "24~7"
1984 Catalina 36 Tall
Hull #251 M25
(SF Bay) Alameda, CA
[QUOTE=chs1517;19143]It sounds like you might have air in the hose leading too or from the engine from the water heater. A quick check of the engine hoses going too and from the water heater will tell if your fluid is flowing. If the hoses are cold or cool you either have a blockage or air in the hose. If it's air in the hose disconnect the hose and with the help of a funnel pour radiator fluid in one of the hoses. When it starts coming out the other end you have removed the air. Reconnect the hoses and try running the engine. Hopefully that should solve your problem.[/QUOTE]
My hoses to and from the water heater are not even warm...did not put the laser thermometer on them, but there is not hot coolant flowing. Thats a good idea to pull those hoses at the engine...add coolant and burp for a possible air bubble. Thanks for the suggestion.
Stephen Kruse
Kruse Control #1428
1995 C-36 MKII SR/WK
Lake Lanier, Ga.
Just to give an update: I ran the engine at 2,400 RPM for 15 minutes and another 15 at 2,800. It looks like I have a 180 thermostat, as that 's where the temp leveled...probably had an air bubble in the w/h loop that corrected itself because I have nice hot water now.
Thanks for the recommendations .
Stephen Kruse
Kruse Control #1428
1995 C-36 MKII SR/WK
Lake Lanier, Ga.
I thought my problem was solved, but my water was only warm (not scolding hot). I followed the excellent member advice and ulitmately found that I had a blockage in the water heater loop. On of the "adapters" connecting the 3/8 hose to the 5/8 hose was blocked with crud...I cleaned that out and purged the air from the w/h loop. I tested and had good flow through this loop. I left the dock and ran the engine 30 minutes at good RPM....temp stayed at a good level.
This past weekend, engine overheated to 190 degress quickly. I had lost a quart+ of coolant that was in the bottom of the engine pan. I went back to the dock and after things cooled down, I added more coolant and found a constant driipping / leak at the flange gasket. Took that apart and have a new gasket on order.
....update to follow after installing the new gasket. Any comments or suggestions?
Stephen Kruse
Kruse Control #1428
1995 C-36 MKII SR/WK
Lake Lanier, Ga.
Stephen, your boat and ours are about the same vintage. When we got our boat it was just a mass of niggling issues with the cooling system, leaks pop up and disappear, then another, then another. I got sick of dealing with it and the first winter I pulled all the coolant lines on both sides of the system (raw and fresh sides) and replaced them all. Also all the clamps and any fittings that looked even remotely suspect including the block drain plugs. Had the HX cleaned and rebuilt, and a new rad cap mount soldered onto the exhaust manifold, new Tstat and rad cap. That was 3 years ago and we haven't had a drip since. It wasn't that hard or expensive to do and it solved a lot of PITA problems in one shot.
Bud, that's a good idea as I am allready this far. I would really learn the cooling system and it would provide peace of mind.....while getting rid of the "painted" hoses!
Stephen Kruse
Kruse Control #1428
1995 C-36 MKII SR/WK
Lake Lanier, Ga.
Stephen, are you talking about the green flange gasket between the manifold and the flange to the exhaust riser? If so, I recommend ordering two or three. The reason is that the bottom hole on the gasket is VERY close to the edge of the material and one needs to be very careful when sliding it onto the studs. We ruined one and had to go back to the shop (thankfully only minutes away by car) to get two more.
Replacing hoses is a basic maintenance item and what Bud described is what all of us have HAD to do to keep things running fine. In the past two years we have replaced: exhaust hose to transom, all engine coolant lines, all plumbing hoses, coolant to the hot water heater, new hot water heater, new HX...you get the picture. :cool:
Anyone who still has "colored/painted" hoses ought to replace them, 'cuz since they stopped making your boat and ours a few years ago, it means it's time to do so.
Good luck.
Stu Jackson, C34IA Secretary, C34 #224, 1986, SR/FK, M25 engine, Rocna 10 (22#)
Yes, it is the gasket between the manifold and flange to the exhaust riser...I ordered 2 gaskets allready. Thanks for the suggestion.
Luckily I was able to get the flange bolts off, but getting it seperated from the manifold was an exercise in patience. I will definately be using some corrosion prohibiting spray when putting the bolts back on.
Stephen Kruse
Kruse Control #1428
1995 C-36 MKII SR/WK
Lake Lanier, Ga.
Stephen sent me a pm:
[I][SIZE="2"]Hi Stu,
I am having trouble finding an automotive equivalent to the 1" I.D. 90 elbow
hose that comes off the bottom of the fresh water coolant pump (Universal part 302086)...cost $38...OUCH.
Given your experience, I thought you might be able to help. Let me know when you have time and many thanks!
Stephen Kruse[/SIZE][/I]
Answer was: [url]http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,7084.0.html[/url]
Tag: "Toyota" for anyone wanting to search for this later on. That's how I find it on our C34 Forum. Comes up regularly.
Stu Jackson, C34IA Secretary, C34 #224, 1986, SR/FK, M25 engine, Rocna 10 (22#)
I listened and did the following:
-new themostat
-found and removed blockage in w/h loop...then cleared the air out of that loop
-replaced numerous hoses (raw and fresh water sides)
-replaced green flange gasket that was leaking badly
When replacing the hose between the raw water pump and the heat exchanger, I did not see any impeller pieces sticking out of the heat exchanger. I was allready deep in the propject (and was curious), so I followed the advice here and removed the end cap of the heat ehchanger. To my suprise I found LOTS of pieced of broken impeller vanes (a nice leftover gift from the previous owner). I had so many pieces, I don't know how I had any discharge flow. It took awhile (tight spot) but I got all the pieces out.
The last thing I did was to install a petcock on top of the thermostat housing...this made it easy to use a funnel and a long tube to "burp" the system.
Finally, the moment of truth, I added coolant at the manifold,put on the cap, added coolant to the overflow jug and hooked up the "burping tube". I ran in gear at the dock and had lots of air bubbles clear the way. My system leveled off at 170 (I have a 180 degree thermostat) and all bubbles were out. I finally had hot water at the galley sink! ...also had a strong discharge water flow.
I left the dock and motored 30 minutes between 2200 and 2800 RPM and the temp stayed constant at 170.
I learned a lot and THANKS for all the help and advice from the members of our great association!
Stephen Kruse
Kruse Control #1428
1995 C-36 MKII SR/WK
Lake Lanier, Ga.
Glad to hear you got everything working..! And, best of all, you learned a lot by doing it yourself, so you'll be able to troubleshoot any problems that may crop up in the future...!!:)
Gary and Cathy Price
1997 C36 Mk II Tall Rig/Wing Keel Imagine...
Hull # 1617
Worton Creek, Md.
Northern Chesapeake Bay