I am about to replace the exhaust hose (muffler to stern) and was wondering if any of you had any tips for getting the hose in. Did you start from the muffler end or the stern? Did you attach the old hose to the new to assist in pulling through the hose? If so, how? Remove the galley/stern berth wall or work from the stern berth and remove the shelf? Any tips are appreciated. My searches have not turned up much, so thought I'd ask outright.
Thanks,
Jeff
—
S/V Wind Ensemble
1987 C-36 Wing Keel
Universal M25XP 23hp
Hull #705
Coastal Alabama

Hi Jeff:
My wife and I replaced the exhaust hose on our 1985 Catalina 36, hull 397, in January 2019.
The job took us about 20 hours over 4 days and cost $265 for the new hose.
Below are details. Attached are some pictures.
Good luck on your project.
Regards,
John
John O
The 7OCs
Catalina 36, 1985
Hull 397
Annapolis, MD area
*********************Exhaust Hose Replacement ********************
John, thanks for sharing your ingenious solution.
Sail La Vie 1999 Catalina 36 MKII, M35B-17031, Coyote Point, San Mateo, CA
About Sail La Vie
Thanks a bunch, John. Sounds like a plan. If you don't mind my asking, what was the most time consuming part? 1 - 2 to actually install the hose doesn't sound bad.
Jeff
S/V Wind Ensemble
1987 C-36 Wing Keel
Universal M25XP 23hp
Hull #705
Coastal Alabama
Hi Jeff,
Snaking the hose from the lazarette to the aft cabin took the most time; and there was two of us working on it.
Other labor items with significant times were:
The boat was new to us at the time and we were slow, cautious and inefficient in doing everything.
Regards,
John O
Thanks, John. We plan to start this process next week. Appreciate your responses.
Jeff
S/V Wind Ensemble
1987 C-36 Wing Keel
Universal M25XP 23hp
Hull #705
Coastal Alabama
Jeff...
I did this years ago and I found it helps to have the right crew to help. I'm 6'2" and lets just say north of 200#. My wife is vertically challenged, about a foot shorter than I and I'm too gentlemanly to mention weight but she's thin.. She actually got into the port locker and pulled on the hose while I pushed from in the cabin.
It's possible but it was humid day and I have to say she looked like she had been swimming when I pulled her out. Just find a short, thin, helper.
Chuck Parker
HelenRita 2072 Mk II
2002 Tall Rig - Winged Keel
Atlantic Highlands, NJ
I am in the middle of replacing my exhaust hose and see that the hose makes a loop behind the port lazarette, just after it comes up from below.
have not seen this loop mentioned elsewhere so I'm wondering if it is necessary. Photo is from the stern lazarette looking forward.
1989 C36 MKI Tall Rig
RI, NH, ME
I am about to replace the muffler and possibly, whilst i am about it, the exhaust hose on my 1987 C36. I noted I have two Goosnecks in the existing exhaust run, one at the transom end, then another at the engine end like your photo, In my boat there is a separate compartment parallel to the port cockpit locker and the hose sits on the bottom of this compartment level with the floor of the locker. I Don't know if all C36' have this arrangement. I am wondering if the hose should be held high near the top of the compartment so as to avoid the dip between the humps or allowed to drop down to the bottom of the compartment as it currently is which creates two humps.
The engine runs ok so why change it? But it doesn't mean its right. Surely water can pool here between the humps rather than run back into the muffler when the engine stops as designed. The muffler has a capacity of 4 gallons and the 17 foot exhaust hose contains less than 2 gallons if 100% full of water by my calculations, so there should be capacity to absorb all of that water running back?
One of the other reasons I'd like to remove the second hump is that there is some friction wear to the existing exhaust hose as it exits the muffler and I'd like to lop off about 10"of hose to eliminate that weak point. That would mean taking up some of the slack in the current pipe and I suspect that would result in a diminished engine side hump.
Any thoughts would be appreciated
Thanks,
Roger
Sassenach (Sas-n-ack), 1987 C-36 Mk1 Hull #752, std rig, deep keel
M-25XPB & PRM Newage 125D2 (repowered 2021)
Pender Harbour, BC
Jeff, my C36 is 1999 version and hose I replaced is 12 feet long. I did the job by myself. I started at the stern and pushed the hose towards the muffler.
Yes, the loop is needed which goes above the waterline to prevent siphoning and flooding the engine.
Sail La Vie 1999 Catalina 36 MKII, M35B-17031, Coyote Point, San Mateo, CA
About Sail La Vie
Regarding HobieDog's question on the loop for the exhaust hose in the lazarette.
I kept the loops.
On my boat the exhaust hose goes up from where it exits into the lazarette from the hose run behind the aft cabin on the port side. From there its secured with ties near the overhead on the port side, runs aft to the aft bulkhead and loops around the aft bulkhead. It then goes down to the through hull fitting to the outside.
This was the routing of the hose when I started the project and decided not to change it.
I don't know if this is necessary. In my opinion this routing of the hose has the benefit of keeping it secure and out of the way when you need to get into the lazarette to do work such as servicing the steering gear.
Good luck with your project.
John
1985 C36 Mk1, Hull 397
HobieDog,
I am guessing the loop in your installation is more for limiting following seas from getting to your muffler. It's not an anti-siphon. That should be on the smaller hose between the heat exchanger and the mixing elbow. You just need some up/down in the exhaust hose to discourage seas coming in from the stern. A loop (as in your case) accomplishes this as well. The more "up" from the exhaust through hull the better. If water does get in, the anti-siphon is supposed to prevent flooding the engine. Belt and suspenders. Mine does not have a loop, but it does go straight up from the through hull to the deck joint (about 2 feet?), then follows the deck joint along the port side. It then comes down the hull just behind the ice box, under the ice box for a couple of feet, then through the aft cabin wall to the muffler. It took approximately 16' of hose. This was the original route of the hose. I used John's idea of connecting the old hose to the new with a short piece of PVC and dry wall screws. My wife and I then pushed and pulled until we got it in. It was not easy as some of the turns are quite tight and through holes in fiberglass. I had to enlarge the hole in the aft cabin wall to facilitate that turn. A dremel tool worked well for this and my ugly cut is hidden by the shelf that covers all of the exhaust components. Good luck!
S/V Wind Ensemble
1987 C-36 Wing Keel
Universal M25XP 23hp
Hull #705
Coastal Alabama