Had a bad failure at the end of last year. Universal M25 Engine blew a fan belt causing an overheating (Head Gasket had tons of blow by. We pulled the head and found the #2 Piston scorched and pitted. We pulled the engine and did a full rebuild, replaced most everything less the Crankshaft, and Camshafts, Sent the Injectors and pump for a rebuild, replaced the Alternator Bracket (none of the previous owners did this). Went to the Boat after re-installing the engine. It started beautifully, nice smooth and quiet. But I was leaking coolant part of the issue was the gasket from the Manifold to the Riser. It also appears to have a pinhole above #3 exhaust port. Does anyone know of someone in the Seattle area that can test this and possibly repair the Manifold or do I put out $1500 for a new one (or does someone know where I can get a used one).
Thanks
Greg Perkins
Port Orchard, WA
1986 Catalina 36
Sail #528
On the boat I would use a Stant pressure tester. I use one to put about 10 PSI on the system to check for leaks after rework. Pressure testing off the engine could done be by building some type of blanking plates and some fittings to pressurize the manifold.
I would bet a skilled welder, someone who is up on the latest rods and such could fix the leak.
If all else fails I have used KW block sealer. Be sure to follow the directions. I don't like mech in a can as a general rule, but I have used it with great results. I had a Chevy 350 with two cracked heads. . Used the block sealer and drove the car 100,000 more miles.
Chuck Lennox
97 MKii Ventura Ca
Island Girl Hull #1611
I'm not sure if they can do exactly what you're looking for, but Auxiliary Engine and Generator Service has been highly recommended to me by a few people and I was happy with the one engine service I had them do for me. http://auxiliaryeng.com/
Eric Howell
Take Five
Seattle, WA
1989 MKI Tall Rig #1013
C36/375 IA Webmaster
I would drill and tap the pin hole before using a block sealer. Or try to braze it shut - welding on cast is inviting problems ( I’m not up on new methods tho).
Les & Trish Troyer
Mahalo
Everett, WA
1983 C-36 Hull #0094
C-36 MK 1 Technical Editor.
Commodore
I agree with Les
I would perform a static leak test without the engine running. That exhaust flange leaking is common and you might have coolant just running along somehow. That three bolt design sucks! I reground mine flat the last time I had it out.
I ran a pressure test once using a tire pump and a 2 dollar Schrader valve.
Again if you do go with welding make sure its a really good shop. Not some guy in his garage. Les is correct.
. Using the block sealer should be a last choice. If you were to use the block sealer I would take the heat exchanger, Thermostat and hot water heater out of the loop. Just the engine!
Chuck Lennox
97 MKii Ventura Ca
Island Girl Hull #1611