Engine alignment

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Pat T
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Joined: 6/12/08
Posts: 26
Engine alignment

Replaced my damper plate over the winter so had to remove the transmission. While at it I changed the bellows on the PYI dripless shaftseal. When I launched this spring I had some wobble in the propshaft. Checked the alignment and I am out more than the .003 recommended on the stb. side of the coupling. Problem is I can't seem to move the engine back in place to stay. I forced it over with wood blocks, got the cleatance reduced, but after I tightened the mounts back up it went back. Is this process supposed to be that hard? Is there something I am missing? Can't think of any reason this is not working for me other than a broken motor mount or because the exhaust riser / manifold is holding the engine in place. I finally called a mechanic. Hard to come by early in the season but he is supposed to stop by on Thursday. If you guys can give me some direction I'll give it another shot before then.       

Pat T, 1995 TR, wing keel, #1388
"Liberty Call"
Burnham Harbor, Chicago

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TomSoko
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Joined: 2/15/07
Posts: 978

Pat,

Is your exhaust riser connected to the muffler with the stiff black OEM hose, or is it connected with the blue silicone "hump" hose?  Changing to the more flexible hump hose is better for the muffler, exhaust riser, and alignment.  Just a thought.

Tom Sokoloski
C36/375IA Past Commodore
Noank, CT

Pat T
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Joined: 6/12/08
Posts: 26

Thanks Tom. Of course I have the stiff black hose. Soon as I find out the size I need I will order the newer hump hose. Seems like a good idea regardless. 

Pat T, 1995 TR, wing keel, #1388
"Liberty Call"
Burnham Harbor, Chicago

BudStreet
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Joined: 9/4/09
Posts: 1127

Pat, one other possibility is the lag bolts have are stripping and are not holding enough pressure.  That's fairly common.  Can be fixed by several means.  Probably best would be to fill them with epoxy and drill them out again.  But what also works is lining the hole with toothpicks coated in epoxy and then just putting the lags back in after it sets up.  Just a thought, we had that happen with our starboard front mount.

 

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TomSoko
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Joined: 2/15/07
Posts: 978

Pat,

From memory, I think it's 1-5/8", but it would be best to measure yours, as there could  be variations, and my memory is not as good as it used to be (more likely!!)  :-)   I think you can get them from Catalina Direct.  Also from memory, I think they have a 6" and an 8" hump hose, depending on the distance between your aqualift muffler and exhaust riser.

Tom Sokoloski
C36/375IA Past Commodore
Noank, CT

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clennox
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Joined: 3/31/14
Posts: 212

Pat

I may be off base here. Are your sure your coupler is installed "true" to the shaft? I have seen a time or two people trying to aline the engine to a coupler that's not trued. This would drive you nuts. This is something to think about. Can be checked with a dial indicator or a straight edge.

Chuck Lennox
97 MKii Ventura Ca
Island Girl Hull #1611

Pat T
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Joined: 6/12/08
Posts: 26

Bud, yes I do have at least one hole that needs a toothpick or two. Tom, yes Catalina Direct has them. Going to measure today and then order one. Chuck, I thought the coupler may be off but because the feeler gauge always goes in on the same stb. side after I rotate the shaft I don't think this is the case. Anyway, supposed to meet a mechanic this AM. We shall see. Thanks again all. 

Pat T, 1995 TR, wing keel, #1388
"Liberty Call"
Burnham Harbor, Chicago

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rtrinkle
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Joined: 10/14/12
Posts: 203

I had the same problem with the exhaust hose. Had it replaced, also had to have the stringers replaced, as they rotted from a leaking muffler inlet riser caused by. The stiff hose.  All of this occurred before I bought the boat, and my surveyor didn't catch it.  Needless to say, I won't use that surveyor again. 

Robert Trinkle
Troubador, 1995 C36 MKII #1433, SR/WK
Universal M35A
Kinsale Harbor Marina
Kinsale, VA

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