Michael,
That's exactly what I did on Julandra. I suggest you take the boom off and replace the internal blocks. Much easier done in a garage or workshop. Hardest thing will be to get out the 4 SS self-tapping screws which hold the end caps on. Set up from the factory it is a 2:1 purchase. By swapping out a few blocks, and a longer line, I increased the purchase to 5:1, and brought it back to the cockpit. MUCH better. I wrote it up for Mainsheet, which means it's on the Tech Notes CD, complete with pix and a parts list. Hope this helps.

The end caps come off with screws and a bit of prying. You can easily do this on deck or on the dock, but it's certainly easier with the boom off the mast.

I ended up with new blocks and an 8:1 purchase. I also replaced the coated wire with Amsteel line. Much better.

I replaced mine a couple of years ago without replacing the blocks and on the boat. I [B]carefully[/B] fastened a light carrier line to the end of the old line and pulled it thru, then used the carrier line to pull thru the new line.

The biggest problem I had (and still have) is I can't get the set screw that holds the end of the line into the spindle out. I could pull the old line out but couldn't get the new line past it when reinstalling. The slot in the screw is too big for any impact driver bit I could find (and I hit all the logical spots looking for one). I also tried spraying it with the different solvents and tried heat. I didn't want to drill it out because I was afraid metal dust would fall into the bearings. However, there are so many wraps around the spindle that you never come near the end so I taped it off with magic tape and it works fine.

Chuck,
I think Michael was asking about an outhaul on a traditional main. Your reply would be for a roller furling main outhaul? Interesting problem, though.